LS build and internet ideas
03-10-2011, 09:01 PM
#1
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LS build and internet ideas Just an update on my build . I started out thinking how dificult can this be? Well I've had a few problems as most others have when building their first LS. First was finding a cheap enough engine to justify getting rid of the 400 small block. Got a 6.0 iron block with dished pistons for $800. 20K on it. Decided to build it like Car Craft's 6.0 550hp. I bought a pair of LS3 heads for $660. Bought the same cam Car Craft used a Comp XR281HR-12. 228/230 and 571/573 with 112 lobe seperation. Got the GM intake, MSD controller. Ordered a TCI sfi flex plate to use with the turbo 350. Bought the spacer that goes behinde the flexplate from GM. WRONG combo, got a diferent flexplate and used the little spacer on the hub. Got it right.
Then I looked up the LS6 springs that GM has on the LS3 heads and noticed that the spring pressure is nowhere near what Comp recomends. Even tho Car Craft used the heads as they came from GM.
Because the heads were already installed I ordered the tool from Crane Cams to change the springs . Very nice tool. Works great.
Also had to modify the oil pump pick-up because of the new oil pump being forward to clear the roller chain the pick-up tube mounting hole had to be elonggated.
Of course I needed diferent pushrods.
Then the waterpump problems, Too many choices for length. Top outlet placement, AND the thermostat type. My , I shoulda read more.Of course the rad hose sizes are not the same as Gen1 either. Who new?
All I need to do is finish the plumbing of the fuel system and I can start it.
This engine combo is just a mild one to get the car running and I hope to build a serious motor for next year.
The car is 2850#. Ran 11.20's with a best of 11.06 with old motor 380hp at the wheels.
Aleck
Then I looked up the LS6 springs that GM has on the LS3 heads and noticed that the spring pressure is nowhere near what Comp recomends. Even tho Car Craft used the heads as they came from GM.
Because the heads were already installed I ordered the tool from Crane Cams to change the springs . Very nice tool. Works great.
Also had to modify the oil pump pick-up because of the new oil pump being forward to clear the roller chain the pick-up tube mounting hole had to be elonggated.
Of course I needed diferent pushrods.
Then the waterpump problems, Too many choices for length. Top outlet placement, AND the thermostat type. My , I shoulda read more.Of course the rad hose sizes are not the same as Gen1 either. Who new?
All I need to do is finish the plumbing of the fuel system and I can start it.
This engine combo is just a mild one to get the car running and I hope to build a serious motor for next year.
The car is 2850#. Ran 11.20's with a best of 11.06 with old motor 380hp at the wheels.
Aleck
03-10-2011, 09:29 PM
#2
I know, everyone makes it sound so easy in their builds. Bing, bang, boom and they're done. I've been kind of going through the same thing with my build too, as its my first LSX. I can't tell you how many hours I've spent here reading through various builds and doing research. However, a lot of that time was while I was at work 
Sounds like you've almost got it knocked out though, and probably won't run into the same roadblocks next go around.
03-11-2011, 07:59 AM
#6
I think the fact you are referring to a potential 550 HP motor as a "mild one" says it will be well worth the effort.
I spent more time planning and thinking about ideas and working issues then actually wrenching or welding. Cross thread a bolt here, need yet one more 90° fuel connector, move the dip stick cause it doesn't clear the headers, drop the trans twice to replace leaking seals, drop the tank a second time and replace the fuel pump due to tank rust, finding an M12x1.0 bubble thread fitting to hook up the HTOB, fuel line grommets, need heater hose adapters, finding rusty body panels, flinding a blown shock, steering shaft doesn't clear the motor mounts, brake booster proves to be defective, shift lever hits the radio, .... the list goes on.
I spent more time planning and thinking about ideas and working issues then actually wrenching or welding. Cross thread a bolt here, need yet one more 90° fuel connector, move the dip stick cause it doesn't clear the headers, drop the trans twice to replace leaking seals, drop the tank a second time and replace the fuel pump due to tank rust, finding an M12x1.0 bubble thread fitting to hook up the HTOB, fuel line grommets, need heater hose adapters, finding rusty body panels, flinding a blown shock, steering shaft doesn't clear the motor mounts, brake booster proves to be defective, shift lever hits the radio, .... the list goes on.
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03-15-2011, 10:54 PM
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Yeah me too. I was considering a 383 SBC stroker or a 455 and then I read that article. 490 Horsepower for $3795!!! or whatever it said, I was hooked.
What they never tell you is:
1) It sits in a dyno so they have no motor mounts to buy and no clearance/fitment issues
2) They have some giant tubing out the back door so no exhaust issues
3) There are like 10 guys working beind the scenes who do this professionally (tune carbs with wideband O2 sensors etc)
I got my LQ9 bolted in today and I'm happy!
What they never tell you is:
1) It sits in a dyno so they have no motor mounts to buy and no clearance/fitment issues
2) They have some giant tubing out the back door so no exhaust issues
3) There are like 10 guys working beind the scenes who do this professionally (tune carbs with wideband O2 sensors etc)
I got my LQ9 bolted in today and I'm happy!
03-16-2011, 06:45 AM
#10
Nothing to be depressed about. It's all hot rodding. Starting with 40 year old car means things outside the swap will need to be fixed.
I'm just happy that this was the first project I have done that wasn't on a daily driver and that I had a dedicated garage to do the work. It would have been tough to do a swap like this a weekend at a time, or in an apartment parking lot.
I also couldn't image doing this without the internet, both because of sites like this and when ordering parts. I had to order the M12x1.0 bubble flare fitting from flipping England. Try having that conversation with the clerk at the local Autozone.
And believe me, what I listed above is only a partial list. I could have eliminated a lot of issues if I had more closely followed someone elses swap guide. But I had to be cute and do some major things differently.
I'm just happy that this was the first project I have done that wasn't on a daily driver and that I had a dedicated garage to do the work. It would have been tough to do a swap like this a weekend at a time, or in an apartment parking lot.
I also couldn't image doing this without the internet, both because of sites like this and when ordering parts. I had to order the M12x1.0 bubble flare fitting from flipping England. Try having that conversation with the clerk at the local Autozone.
And believe me, what I listed above is only a partial list. I could have eliminated a lot of issues if I had more closely followed someone elses swap guide. But I had to be cute and do some major things differently.
03-16-2011, 01:36 PM
#11
LOL thats the HONEST TRUTH! there are no parts clerks that have a clue what we are truely after. I used this forum for 90% of my info, other internet sources, and going to the scrap yard and looking at stuff for the rest.
ps the only Major problem I had was having to modify #5 header tube on my BRAND NEW Eddy COATED headers, for clutch linkage clearence
And the fact that an autometer mechanical temp sensor wont phisycally fit into the head - I drilled and tapped my water pump.
Barrett
ps the only Major problem I had was having to modify #5 header tube on my BRAND NEW Eddy COATED headers, for clutch linkage clearence
And the fact that an autometer mechanical temp sensor wont phisycally fit into the head - I drilled and tapped my water pump.Barrett
03-16-2011, 09:46 PM
#13
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Car Craft fixes mis-information on "550 hp for $4900" In the May 2011 Car Craft some good info about the heads swap. Check-out page 36 in the Ask Anything colum.
Aleck
Aleck
03-24-2011, 07:12 PM
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Okay, slap me if I am wrong. Either head can go on either side, right? So the coolant passage on the pass rear (no room) is the same as the coolant passage on the driver's front, right?
Because I am carbed I have no need for the ECM coolant temp sensor. Couldn't an adapter go in the driver's front so you could run a temp gauge? It seems like there is a lot of empty space there, at least in my car.
Because I am carbed I have no need for the ECM coolant temp sensor. Couldn't an adapter go in the driver's front so you could run a temp gauge? It seems like there is a lot of empty space there, at least in my car.
03-25-2011, 10:33 AM
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I'm like you *3pedals*, I don't like the idea of drilling and re-tapping the head. There are several sources also for a short tube that goes into the upper radiator hose with about any size NPT threaded bung in it you could want, or you could do like me and make one yourself out of a piece of exhaust tubing with a fitting brazed into it. Works great. Ron
03-25-2011, 08:31 PM
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I don't mean to beat this subject to death, but I am in the middle of my build and will be ready for gauges in the next month or so.
On those old-school mechanical water temp gauges with a spiral wire tube thing - I had one in my 5.0 Mustang a couple years ago - the actual sender was brass or copper and was slim.
3pedals, does any aftermarket gauge work with the factory GM temp sensor?
On those old-school mechanical water temp gauges with a spiral wire tube thing - I had one in my 5.0 Mustang a couple years ago - the actual sender was brass or copper and was slim.
3pedals, does any aftermarket gauge work with the factory GM temp sensor?
03-26-2011, 07:08 AM
#20
On The Tree
Thread Starter
I drilled the top of my water pump. There's lots of room even for a mech. gauge sending unit. I know the water temp wont be as hot as in the head but you still get an idea of where you'r at. I'm using an electric gauge.
Aleck
Aleck