what are the pros and cons of going carb
#4
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In my case the carb was much cheaper. I started with a new crate motor. Sourcing EFI stuff new is a good bit more expensive. The other factors were I wanted to learn how to tune a carb, wanted to keep the manual choke (I know, weird, but I have owned this car forever and it is part of the character), didn’t have to sump the tank and most importantly didn’t have to buy a laptop and tuning software to tune the motor. I work with computers all day and the thought of needing a microsoft product to work on my car didn't appeal to me. Also no way would I ever be happy using a “tuner”. Sounds too gay to talk about “my tuner”.
As it is I did buy a $500 wideband and had to borrow a work laptop to set the ignition, but hey.
As for performance, the carb is working very well for my summer only car. I get good mileage (over 25 mpg), excellent power and in summer weather excellent drivability. There have been quite a few internet articles that show carbs with carb intakes generally pick up not only top end HP but low end power as well (I think I got that right). There have been other articles that say for all out performance carbs with an emulsion mixture coming in way above the intakes have an inherent advantage over EFI trying to atomize the fuel at the intake port. Some arguments about that, but people have posted comparisons.
The cons, carbs simply don’t work as well in the cold and they do require more tinkering to keep them running right. Carb motors also don’t live as long as EFI cause when cold they do wash more unburned fuel into the oil. For a strip car with frequent oil changes and won't go over 100K miles anyway this won’t be an issue. If you are the type of person who doesn't like getting gas on your hands, then you might want to go EFI and keyboards for tuning.
It can cost a bit to get set up with all the stuff you need to tune a carb. But once you have everything it is much cheaper to adapt the carb to a different motor if need be. Buying carb parts and tuning material used can really knock down the expense though. Things like jets and airbleeds never wear out.
As it is I did buy a $500 wideband and had to borrow a work laptop to set the ignition, but hey.
As for performance, the carb is working very well for my summer only car. I get good mileage (over 25 mpg), excellent power and in summer weather excellent drivability. There have been quite a few internet articles that show carbs with carb intakes generally pick up not only top end HP but low end power as well (I think I got that right). There have been other articles that say for all out performance carbs with an emulsion mixture coming in way above the intakes have an inherent advantage over EFI trying to atomize the fuel at the intake port. Some arguments about that, but people have posted comparisons.
The cons, carbs simply don’t work as well in the cold and they do require more tinkering to keep them running right. Carb motors also don’t live as long as EFI cause when cold they do wash more unburned fuel into the oil. For a strip car with frequent oil changes and won't go over 100K miles anyway this won’t be an issue. If you are the type of person who doesn't like getting gas on your hands, then you might want to go EFI and keyboards for tuning.
It can cost a bit to get set up with all the stuff you need to tune a carb. But once you have everything it is much cheaper to adapt the carb to a different motor if need be. Buying carb parts and tuning material used can really knock down the expense though. Things like jets and airbleeds never wear out.
#6
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Haven't made the LSX swap yet.... but will be going carb to keep it looking a little bit old school looking and I can tune in my garage... just easier all around for me
(when I do it that is)
Like this :o
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Like this :o
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#7
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Go carb for a strip only car for sure!
This shows the difference between EFI and Carb
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...m_hi_lift.html
I am doing carb set-up for my 68 Nova to keep the old school look myself using a LY6.
The carb picks up on the top end right were you need it up top especially if you have lots of gear and a nice high stall.
I'm going with this cam in my ly6 not 100% sure on converter but I think 4500 stall would be nice for the trackhttp://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_0909_gm_ls_engine_cam_test/photo_12.html
Notice the loss of power in the mid range the article shows that with most cams.
Bruce
This shows the difference between EFI and Carb
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...m_hi_lift.html
I am doing carb set-up for my 68 Nova to keep the old school look myself using a LY6.
The carb picks up on the top end right were you need it up top especially if you have lots of gear and a nice high stall.
I'm going with this cam in my ly6 not 100% sure on converter but I think 4500 stall would be nice for the trackhttp://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_0909_gm_ls_engine_cam_test/photo_12.html
Notice the loss of power in the mid range the article shows that with most cams.
Bruce
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#8
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Go carb for a strip only car for sure!
This shows the difference between EFI and Carb
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...m_hi_lift.html
I am doing carb set-up for my 68 Nova to keep the old school look myself using a LY6.
The carb picks up on the top end right were you need it up top especially if you have lots of gear and a nice high stall.
I'm going with this cam in my ly6 not 100% sure on converter but I think 4500 stall would be nice for the trackhttp://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_0909_gm_ls_engine_cam_test/photo_12.html
Notice the loss of power in the mid range the article shows that with most cams.
Bruce
This shows the difference between EFI and Carb
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...m_hi_lift.html
I am doing carb set-up for my 68 Nova to keep the old school look myself using a LY6.
The carb picks up on the top end right were you need it up top especially if you have lots of gear and a nice high stall.
I'm going with this cam in my ly6 not 100% sure on converter but I think 4500 stall would be nice for the trackhttp://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_0909_gm_ls_engine_cam_test/photo_12.html
Notice the loss of power in the mid range the article shows that with most cams.
Bruce
#9
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If you are going with a carb, I would just have a custom cam spec'ed for your application by one of the good guys on this board.
PM the usual suspects, PatG, EPS, TSP, Bullet Cams, Ect and you will have a cam that you will be very happy with.
Notch the pistons and get a cam with tighter lobe separation.
I would be looking at cams with around a 110 LSA, installed at 106 ICL.
This will get the HP/TQ party started a lot faster than a wide LSA EFI cam.
Do some searching on this topic, and you will find some very fast combos.
If you don't want to notch the pistons, the GM ASA Hot Cam (226/236 110lsa) is a strong performer that belts out 525+hp in the CT525 crate engine. (some have reported actual 560hp in testing)
PM the usual suspects, PatG, EPS, TSP, Bullet Cams, Ect and you will have a cam that you will be very happy with.
Notch the pistons and get a cam with tighter lobe separation.
I would be looking at cams with around a 110 LSA, installed at 106 ICL.
This will get the HP/TQ party started a lot faster than a wide LSA EFI cam.
Do some searching on this topic, and you will find some very fast combos.
If you don't want to notch the pistons, the GM ASA Hot Cam (226/236 110lsa) is a strong performer that belts out 525+hp in the CT525 crate engine. (some have reported actual 560hp in testing)
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I got my engine with 60k miles on it. LS1 out of a 98 Camaro SS. Installed it in my 70 Chevelle, and with the help of a few on this board, adapted my Muncie 21 to it, and topped it off with an Edelbrock Vr Jr bought off this board as well and a QFT Pro 750 mechanical. Ignition went with MSD 6010. Hooked everything up, put gas in the bowls, and the engine fired on the third crank! Best of both worlds, tune the curve, revs, and spray retard with the Dell, and get my hands covered in 91 Octane while wrenching on the carb. Old school still rulz!
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Lots of magazines have done carburetor vs EFI comparisons and it is usually about equal. DO NOT believe people who say that EFI gives more power than a carb.
I run a carb because it makes some people mad!
I run a carb because it makes some people mad!
#12
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What all do i need to get started dont u delete the knock sensors as well. I have all kinds of goodies to sell/trade so that wont be a problem what size carb would i need and whats a good brand im clueless when it comes to carbs but i will learn fast im a auto tech just to young to have ever messed with a carb set up.
Things to fund this build:
NW/Fast 92/92
FTP 98mm LID
FTRA
Nitrous outlet 92mm plate
Bosch 42# injectors
LS6 valley cover and oil catch can
bet that will get it done!!
Things to fund this build:
NW/Fast 92/92
FTP 98mm LID
FTRA
Nitrous outlet 92mm plate
Bosch 42# injectors
LS6 valley cover and oil catch can
bet that will get it done!!
#13
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If you already have a carbed car, it is hard not to stay carbed, otherwise, if you are lazy and dont know ****, you should have someone else do everything yourself and put EFI on it since at any given moment the ECM can tell you something is wrong and to take it somewhere.
For a real man that is on the real budget, the carb is king on the older cars.
Cheap, fast, effective and efficient if you know what you are doing.
I have a 180$ Innovate wide band that helped me nail the tune dead on, otherwise, turning a screw driver is cheaper than paying a tuner for the EFI like mentioned, i am proud to say i do 99% of all my own work.
For a real man that is on the real budget, the carb is king on the older cars.
Cheap, fast, effective and efficient if you know what you are doing.
I have a 180$ Innovate wide band that helped me nail the tune dead on, otherwise, turning a screw driver is cheaper than paying a tuner for the EFI like mentioned, i am proud to say i do 99% of all my own work.
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Carb = no tuning and FI computers and fuel system = (Cheaper to build and tune).
CARB also offer several benefits over FI in power out put across the range and upper RPMs.
FI gives better economy, emissions, drivability (but I would argue any LS motor will have better drivability than a SBC or BBC any day).
BTW my cam has 112LSA and I have gone 11.0 1/4 (with no 3rd gear) drove to the track 30+ miles with 3.36 gear
CARB also offer several benefits over FI in power out put across the range and upper RPMs.
FI gives better economy, emissions, drivability (but I would argue any LS motor will have better drivability than a SBC or BBC any day).
BTW my cam has 112LSA and I have gone 11.0 1/4 (with no 3rd gear) drove to the track 30+ miles with 3.36 gear
#15
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Only used 1st and 2nd at the track and was really fun playing with "ricers" on the street.1st would go to 80mph at 6000rpm and 2nd would bust 120mph easy and still have 3rd (th350) they never knew what hit them.... old muscle/pony cars aren't supposed to run like that ....hehe
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I cut a 1.65-1.68 60ft... leaving easy. 7.0 to the 1/8th. My time and MPH hurt me at 900-1000 foot mark when I bumped the limiter and had to get out before the finish. Thats why my mph was dropping to 118mph. I am guessing 122-125 in the 1/4 once i can shift into 3rd at WOT
BTW DOUG G...your Camaro runs good!
BTW DOUG G...your Camaro runs good!
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i just bought a ls1 from a 2000 trans am ws6 with 60000 miles on in the engine with out any wiring and no heads.. it a complete short block i have the air intake fuel rails and the throttle body it also came with the factory valve covers and the coil packs. i was wondering what do i need for wiring if i switch to carb i also was wondering about running the distbortor off the cam can anyone tell me what i need for wiring for cab'ed ls1 i am putting this in a 1986 camaro this car will be a street strip car can i get some help so i can get my project done thanks
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i just bought a ls1 from a 2000 trans am ws6 with 60000 miles on in the engine with out any wiring and no heads.. it a complete short block i have the air intake fuel rails and the throttle body it also came with the factory valve covers and the coil packs. i was wondering what do i need for wiring if i switch to carb i also was wondering about running the distbortor off the cam can anyone tell me what i need for wiring for cab'ed ls1 i am putting this in a 1986 camaro this car will be a street strip car can i get some help so i can get my project done thanks