Finally got my carb'd LS project on the street
#1
Finally got my carb'd LS project on the street
As the title says, I finally got my carb'd LS swap'd 73 RS out on the streets after two straight years of work. There's still TONS of work to do (really need to cut the front springs soon!) but at least it's finally driveable while I continue my work. Just thought I'd share a few pics. These were from Sunday. I fueled it up and headed out on my maiden voyage for some fun!
Oh, and before anyone asks......no burnout vids just yet. I still need to drag someone out with me to do the filming.
Oh, and before anyone asks......no burnout vids just yet. I still need to drag someone out with me to do the filming.
#4
Unfortunately there won't be track times anytime real soon. I'm still recovering from back surgery and there is still a lot of "on your back" type of work that needs to be done first before I can run it at the track. My best estimate would be November. Luckily I'm in AZ, so that's getting into prime time racing for us due to the cool dry air that winter brings. I'll definately be posting a results thread when it happens though!
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#9
Thanks man! There's a link to the full build in my sig if anyone wants to see the whole thing.
Thanks man. I'm not sure on the RWHP, but I'm guessing around 550 at the flywheel. So, if you calculate for a 20% drivetrain loss, you get around 440 RWHP? I guess my MPH at the track will tell the story.
Thanks dude. I've always loved the 70-73 cars and LS motors, so I decided to combine the two. The car has a Rossler TH400 with a brake and (for now) an 8.5 10-bolt with 4.10s. The plan is to eventually upgrade to a 9 inch and a much heavier driveshaft but what I've got for now is what I'm gonna run on for a while or until it breaks.
Thanks dude. I've always loved the 70-73 cars and LS motors, so I decided to combine the two. The car has a Rossler TH400 with a brake and (for now) an 8.5 10-bolt with 4.10s. The plan is to eventually upgrade to a 9 inch and a much heavier driveshaft but what I've got for now is what I'm gonna run on for a while or until it breaks.
#10
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We ran a slightly built 8.5 10 bolt in an 81 Camaro Z28 with a big block (454). Never had a problem. They are WAYYYY stouter than the 7.5 the 3rd and 4th gens come with. BTW the car ran 10.99 on motor and 10.0 on the spray. Nice build, it came out great. Eric L
#12
Thanks man. Yeah, it definately gets some looks. The other day I was sitting at a red light and saw a guy beside me checking out the car. Pretty soon he says, "Hey buddy.......hey.....I'm not sure what's wrong with your car, but your fender is rubbing on your back tire really bad! It's sitting pretty low back there.....you may need to lift it up a little." I was just like, yeah.....OK, thanks! I'll check it out when i get home....... I guess he thought I had some fat chicks in the back seat or something
#15
I cut the driver's side coil spring this evening and should get the passenger side done tomorrow. So hopefully I'll have pics of the new and improved stance pretty soon.
#16
Nice Ride!
My advice to you is for sure get the new axels and c-clip eliminator! that is what I did for my car. Only thing different was I went with a detroit locker. May not be required if this is a road only car. But sometime when you come outa the burn out box at the track the tires grab again and tear the clutchs out of a posi.
I see many guys her running in the 9's and 10's on 8.5" 10 bolts (Years of running every weekend) so I don't think you have anything to worry about with a well built unit. That is why I went that way for my 68 nova. The guy that built mine said "This will be the last 10-bolt you ever build for that car"
Is the paint job just black primer or something else? If something else was used what products did you use?
Thanks,
Bruce
My advice to you is for sure get the new axels and c-clip eliminator! that is what I did for my car. Only thing different was I went with a detroit locker. May not be required if this is a road only car. But sometime when you come outa the burn out box at the track the tires grab again and tear the clutchs out of a posi.
I see many guys her running in the 9's and 10's on 8.5" 10 bolts (Years of running every weekend) so I don't think you have anything to worry about with a well built unit. That is why I went that way for my 68 nova. The guy that built mine said "This will be the last 10-bolt you ever build for that car"
Is the paint job just black primer or something else? If something else was used what products did you use?
Thanks,
Bruce
#17
Nice Ride!
My advice to you is for sure get the new axels and c-clip eliminator! that is what I did for my car. Only thing different was I went with a detroit locker. May not be required if this is a road only car. But sometime when you come outa the burn out box at the track the tires grab again and tear the clutchs out of a posi.
I see many guys her running in the 9's and 10's on 8.5" 10 bolts (Years of running every weekend) so I don't think you have anything to worry about with a well built unit. That is why I went that way for my 68 nova. The guy that built mine said "This will be the last 10-bolt you ever build for that car"
Is the paint job just black primer or something else? If something else was used what products did you use?
Thanks,
Bruce
My advice to you is for sure get the new axels and c-clip eliminator! that is what I did for my car. Only thing different was I went with a detroit locker. May not be required if this is a road only car. But sometime when you come outa the burn out box at the track the tires grab again and tear the clutchs out of a posi.
I see many guys her running in the 9's and 10's on 8.5" 10 bolts (Years of running every weekend) so I don't think you have anything to worry about with a well built unit. That is why I went that way for my 68 nova. The guy that built mine said "This will be the last 10-bolt you ever build for that car"
Is the paint job just black primer or something else? If something else was used what products did you use?
Thanks,
Bruce
The car is just wearing a Summit Racing black epoxy primer paint job, and a bad one at that. I'm not a body man AT ALL, so this was my first time spraying a car. I stripped the entire thing to bare metal, left out all of the filler, and just sprayed it with epoxy. Well......I take that back; after blasting the roof, I filled some of the pin holes with USC All-Metal and I also patched the one lower fender, but none of this was what I would consider "finished" body work. Just enough to make it presentable from 20ft.
#18
Hey Bruce, thanks for the compliment on the car and the rear end advice. So how do you like your detriot locker for street driving? Does it make a lot of noise (clattering and popping) going around turns? Did you upgrade to 30 spline axles at the same time?
The car is just wearing a Summit Racing black epoxy primer paint job, and a bad one at that. I'm not a body man AT ALL, so this was my first time spraying a car. I stripped the entire thing to bare metal, left out all of the filler, and just sprayed it with epoxy. Well......I take that back; after blasting the roof, I filled some of the pin holes with USC All-Metal and I also patched the one lower fender, but none of this was what I would consider "finished" body work. Just enough to make it presentable from 20ft.
The car is just wearing a Summit Racing black epoxy primer paint job, and a bad one at that. I'm not a body man AT ALL, so this was my first time spraying a car. I stripped the entire thing to bare metal, left out all of the filler, and just sprayed it with epoxy. Well......I take that back; after blasting the roof, I filled some of the pin holes with USC All-Metal and I also patched the one lower fender, but none of this was what I would consider "finished" body work. Just enough to make it presentable from 20ft.
Since I had a bad experience with a body Job It was suggested to do a rat rod with my car to save $$ and get the car on the road.
My plan was to get the car on the road this fall but the bad body work has put me back some so hopefully next year now.
Bruce
#19
Well guys, I got the front coil springs cut last night and this morning. I took one full coil out of each, dropping the nose by about 2 1/8 inches. It could be lower, but it looks much better now IMO and I have 4.5 inches of upward travel in the front suspension without removing the upper bump stops. I may take it down just a little further one day, but not until I swap oil pans. The LH8 pan I'm running right now hangs way too low to go any further. An F-body pan will be in my future.
After the pics I went home and installed my Caltrac bars and went out and made a few more hits. Man this thing hooks up great on the street! I can't wait to get it to the track! I still need to decide if I want to swap my cam first and be done with it, or whether or not I have the time and patience to do a before and after comparison. My current cam isn't at all optimized for this set up.
After the pics I went home and installed my Caltrac bars and went out and made a few more hits. Man this thing hooks up great on the street! I can't wait to get it to the track! I still need to decide if I want to swap my cam first and be done with it, or whether or not I have the time and patience to do a before and after comparison. My current cam isn't at all optimized for this set up.
#20
I think you did right stopping were you did. Remember the springs will settle over time and end up lower than what you have it now if they were new.
Caltrac's are awesome! My cousin's 70 Torino gt was running 1.48 60 ft times with them on it! Wheels in the air too (He ran best of 11.42)! Seeing his experience with them convinced me to use them on my car! So Caltracs are in my plans!
Bruce
Caltrac's are awesome! My cousin's 70 Torino gt was running 1.48 60 ft times with them on it! Wheels in the air too (He ran best of 11.42)! Seeing his experience with them convinced me to use them on my car! So Caltracs are in my plans!
Bruce