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Old Oct 26, 2012 | 02:30 PM
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First LS build. Will this combo make close to 500FWHP?

LQ4 Block w/rod bolts and rebuild
317 Heads+Basic port and milled .025"
~9.7CR
Flow#'s
.400-- 249/172
.500-- 273/190
.600-- 290/207
Vic Jr with spacer.
AED 950 carb
226/235 @ .050, .600" lift, 112/108

Do I need more duration to get there? Maybe ~236-240?

Going to spray it til it dies.
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Old Oct 26, 2012 | 02:48 PM
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Stick shift or high stall converter? If stall, how big?
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Old Oct 26, 2012 | 03:11 PM
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Going into a Fox body. TH350 w/3500 nitrous converter.

But how does that affect FWHP?
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Old Oct 26, 2012 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Old55
Going into a Fox body. TH350 w/3500 nitrous converter.

But how does that affect FWHP?
Because you asked:

Originally Posted by Old55
Do I need more duration to get there? Maybe ~236-240?
In a light fox body with a 3500 converter, I would say 230 to 233 intake duration @ .050" with a 240 exhaust duration @ .050" if you are going to run nitrous.

With that bigger cam, I would bet you will make 500 FWHP.

Not that the smaller cam won't work. It will for sure, but in a light car with that converter, that is what I would run for a cam.
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Old Oct 26, 2012 | 04:04 PM
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Needz moar camz.
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Old Oct 26, 2012 | 05:53 PM
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That's what I thought. Thanks for the info. We'll up it a bit.
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 01:32 PM
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A couple of small course corrections on my build.

Both long blocks I purchased had block damage. One had cam tunnel issues.
Anyone want a good LQ4 rotating assembly and a set of 317's?

So I purchased a shortbock from Don Hardy. Very noce guy to work with. Had it in just over a week. Forged FT pistons, H-beam rods, ARP bolts, etc.
FT's should give me ~10.4CR.

Heads are still at the porters but should arrive right after Christmas.

Up'd the duration on the cam to 232/238 @ .050.

Just finishing up on the suspension mods on another D**** Mustang. Found out the diff had 3.90 gears when I bought it. So we're going to run'em. Installed a spool, Moser rear cover and 31 spline axles.

Maybe have this stuff together in another 3-4weeks. Then I can work on the N2O set-up. Kinda gettin' excited about this deal.
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 02:23 PM
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That car is gonna be a rocketship.
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 02:51 PM
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Yeah. I have a S/S 55 Post car with stock suspension and a 422SBC. It runs 9.80's on the sauce. It weighs 3750# with me. Never owned a "light weight" car before.

Mustang(Ford) + Ls motor. This is definitely a new experience for me. But should be some fun.
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 11:29 AM
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Ok. Got suspension modsd completed on the Fox body. Trans and converter is ready. Motor is almost complete. Needs a couple of external parts to complete. i have a couple of questions:
1. The cam sensor hole at the back of the block. Is it OK to just leave it out for a carb'd deal? Suggestions on how to block it off?
2. The steam/coolant holes on the heads. Where do I run these? Back into the waterpump? Where on the waterpump?
3. Coolant sensor. I want to use a manual temp gauge. I plan on tapping the hole in the side of the head and installing a NPT thread. Is this acceptable?
4. Also on the back of the block behind the manifold is a port that I believe is for the oil sensor. Is this correct? Where would I get a manual gauge kit to fit this thread.
5. Where do i purchase a inexpensvie(Cheap) set of coil covers to hide the ugly SOB coils?

Sorry for all the questions. But like it says this is my first LS deal.
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 12:37 PM
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Martin spec'd my first game with similar spec's to what you have and he spec'd me a

234/242 since then I've changed a bunch and went bigger I'd give him a Call
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 01:28 PM
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you need the cam sensor to hook up to your msd box. and the steam tube, you can either run back to your radiator if it has a port for it or you can drill and tap in the water pump. As for the manual gauge there have been guys who tap the head, but you can buy a metric to standard adapter to put in the cylinder head to run your temp gauge. I just have my plugged in the pressure side of the heater tube (the 2 ports on the side of the water pump that run hot water to the heater core) and it works great. probably about 10-15 deg off, but works great none the less. As for the oil, yes that is the oil pressure port. you will have to drill to make it fit, thats what I did and it worked great. I actually cut off the top of the old sensor and drilled and tapped that so I did not have to tap the block, and ran my fitting into the top of the old sensor. Works great.

Last edited by stevecritt; Mar 26, 2013 at 01:39 PM.
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 04:34 PM
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Thanks Steve. Called Jegs and they have an adapter for both the oil and temp. sensors. I should of called before I posted.
orderd the cam sensor today.

Thanks for the help.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 11:37 PM
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[ATTACH][ATTACH]1ST Timer-1993-mustang-015.jpg[/ATTACH][/ATTACH]1ST Timer-1993-mustang-002.jpg

1ST Timer-1993-mustang-011.jpg

1ST Timer-1993-mustang-010.jpg

Update on my build. Got the motor started on start stand. Sounds OK. May not ahve enough cam. Attached the trans and dropped everthing in. Working on all the other stuff. ie; ignition, exhaust, nitrous, electrical, etc, etc, etc,
Attached Thumbnails 1ST Timer-1993-mustang-014.jpg   1ST Timer-1993-mustang-013.jpg  
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 12:09 AM
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Finally got the car to the track for a few passes. Had several issues to work out. New second stage Nitrous solenoid failed. Suspension needed adjustments. Etc.

Anyway got a best of 5.83 @ 113.55 with a 1.25sec 60'. Last run of the night we reduced the second step time from .6 sec to .3 sec. The 60' dropped to 1.18 sec but ran out of happy gas at the big end and only ran 5.88 n@ 109.84.

All in all she's coming around.
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 12:47 AM
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ONLY in the 5's on its first outing??

Well **** far dude... Were you shooting for the 4's or what?

With fixing your issues and working on the nitrous timing, you should be down at least another 1-2 tenths, if not a little more.
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Old55
Finally got the car to the track for a few passes. Had several issues to work out. New second stage Nitrous solenoid failed. Suspension needed adjustments. Etc.

Anyway got a best of 5.83 @ 113.55 with a 1.25sec 60'. Last run of the night we reduced the second step time from .6 sec to .3 sec. The 60' dropped to 1.18 sec but ran out of happy gas at the big end and only ran 5.88 n@ 109.84.

All in all she's coming around.
Great to hear. Did you make any motor passes?
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 08:20 AM
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Yeah. These motors are pretty good. I have WMAO to get my 55 to run low sixes. Of course it was heavy (~3700#'s) but its got a fairly large solid roller, seriously ported heads, suspension work and a 250shot of spray.
This lil Mustang only weighs 3050#'s but s**t only a 6.2 with touched up truck heads, hyd roller and some juice. Just freaks me out.
Yes, I think there's more in it(Doesn't everybody say that.). We did get a better 60' by bringing the 2nd stage in earlier. Too bad we ran out of nitrous on the big end. I've got a pretty tame nitrous tune in it and timing is not optimized. Then of course there's a set of larger jets in the toolbox.
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Old55
timing is not optimized. Then of course there's a set of larger jets in the toolbox.
That's the spirit!. When I saw nitrous tune was a little rich, do you think I reduced the fuel jet? HA! No way, to me that plug was telling me it needed more nitrous!
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by speedtigger
That's the spirit!. When I saw nitrous tune was a little rich, do you think I reduced the fuel jet? HA! No way, to me that plug was telling me it needed more nitrous!
Lol you guys crack me up! That car is haulin! if my truck was in the same situation id be worried about blowin the thing to pieces so id jet down like a chicken... id why I dont trust it. Maybe cuz I built it lol!

Got any vids of the runs?
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