Fox body LS, ZONES style
03-04-2013, 06:50 PM
#61
Kooks came through quickly, great customer service, got me taken care of right away. The emailed me the few questions, sent back the invoice and I paid by phone. Shipped the next day, was Wednesday and here by Monday. Sponsors like that are what it is about. The craftsmanship looked great, they even have the cone in the collectors. These are 1 7/8, 3.5 collector and I cannot wait to be bolting the dudes on.
eBay x pipe, good enough. It is a shame I'll be reducing to 3 inch, but it is not a race car or I would not run exhaust.
They do not requir lower control arms like dynatech.
eBay x pipe, good enough. It is a shame I'll be reducing to 3 inch, but it is not a race car or I would not run exhaust.
They do not requir lower control arms like dynatech.
03-04-2013, 09:04 PM
#62
Dynatechs do not require aftermarket or tubular lower control arms. I have Dynatechs on my fairmont with AJE tubular control arm and stock lower control arms, they do not interfere/touch anywhere. The gap on the drivers side is substantial as it should be considering the placement of the engine. The passenger side is by no means tight... easily 1/4" plus everywhere.
I will try and remember to take a picture for you and post it here for proof.
I will try and remember to take a picture for you and post it here for proof.
03-04-2013, 09:14 PM
#63
On The Tree
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What are you using for a tranny crossmember? Ive got the kooks headers and using a stock crossmember and the driver side header is right in line with the mount on the body so ill prob have to end up making a new one. just wondering if there is a better way to do it
03-04-2013, 09:23 PM
#64
I'm using a adjustable double hump crossmember with what amounts to a raised steel box welded on top (piece of C channel welded sideways then boxed to space it up where it was needed then an opening cut from the bottom for bolt/nut access). If yours is running into the crossmember I would clearance it as best I could and just cut/shorten the collector(s) and work the exhaust around it and through the 2 humps.
03-05-2013, 12:08 AM
#65
Great to know about the dynatechs, every time I looked them up through jegs it said A arms required with AJE k member.
LS notch, I have not hit that stump yet, but as I have done with all my third gen LS swaps, a custom x member will surely find its way to the coupe.
The real challenge is a 4L80 in my 86 TA with dual 3 inch exhaust. That is a fat Trans and a tunnel that has rails that kick in.
LS notch, I have not hit that stump yet, but as I have done with all my third gen LS swaps, a custom x member will surely find its way to the coupe.
The real challenge is a 4L80 in my 86 TA with dual 3 inch exhaust. That is a fat Trans and a tunnel that has rails that kick in.
03-06-2013, 06:38 AM
#66
The Kooks were touching everything in my car when I installed them, I pulled them and put in the Dynatechs and they fit way better with my AJE K member. I liked the bigger tubes but, they were just too big. Cant wait to see you get this going on spary
03-07-2013, 03:48 PM
#71
Patience sir! Lol
I cut the roof off of my 89 RS before I scrapped it. I can use those pieces to make repairs.(my Camaro will live on in a ford?) I have to get the TA going and then I'll be all over the mustang project. Then, finally I'll be working on the 91 RS after the stang is beatin the ground.
I cut the roof off of my 89 RS before I scrapped it. I can use those pieces to make repairs.(my Camaro will live on in a ford?) I have to get the TA going and then I'll be all over the mustang project. Then, finally I'll be working on the 91 RS after the stang is beatin the ground.
03-10-2013, 04:47 AM
#73
Thanks man, did some playing today with it since I got somewhere with the 4.8 efi swap in my 96 S10. Once I was done there I was just excited to flex my untested skills at replacing body panel pieces with my welder. Not for the faint at heart as you can guess. I'll finish this side tomorrow and then jump on taking the TA apart and maybe the trailblazer.
We also stripped the interior, has a crack in the floor board from a fat driver or just being a junk ford, or a combination of the two. Anyway, just another repair I must take care of.
Pics for those demanding:
Sorry, no after pic of the trashy interior after removal, but here is a starting pic:
We also stripped the interior, has a crack in the floor board from a fat driver or just being a junk ford, or a combination of the two. Anyway, just another repair I must take care of.
Pics for those demanding:
Sorry, no after pic of the trashy interior after removal, but here is a starting pic:
03-11-2013, 03:55 AM
#78
Dang. That is still on the to do list. Still have 1 more rail hole to fix, but here is the results from todays work. Finished the passenger side. Went well. Driver side went from bad to worse. Did not know there was lead jointing the roof to the a pillar....it got bad. That was after finding things were worse that I thought. I stopped because it was 3 am. Going to use body filler to get it as good as I can, but it is solid now. Really solid. I reinforces the rail with some plate I cut down and this thing is good to go from that point I'm sure. Here is the pics of the progress from where I left off last night to tonight:
Pretty proud I was able to get it up to snuff after seeing just how bad it was.
Pretty proud I was able to get it up to snuff after seeing just how bad it was.
03-13-2013, 10:46 PM
#79
6.0 from the 3/4 Ton is out. Trans is out of the TA. Need to swap shifters, but motor is ready for cam and heads to be installed. Need to paint the block, ect. Scored a set of twin electric fans from Be Cool used for cheap. Going to try a stock third gen radiator. I imagine it will work fine at the track. Street driving....maybe with the dual fans.