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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 04:47 PM
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Default Need help....

Timing at 40* at idle (40's the limit) and does drop as throttle opens (due to vac. drop)
I tried a lower timing set-up but ran like ****, may need some more carb adjustments ?
32* with 10* vac. advance.



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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 07:53 PM
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You don't count MAP timing against your overall, as it goes away under WOT. It would be nice to see the scale on your MAP graph though...
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 09:03 PM
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I agree, I'd like to see the scale of the map table you plotted, its very important. I dont think you need to limit it to 40*, it will like more at part throttle / high vacuum.
you can start your rpm graph at about 15* at 0 rpm up to a bout 500rpm, then go strait to your 32* at a couple hundred less rpm than your idle speed - i chose 500rpm, as I idled around 900ish, but it doesnt really matter, just get all the timing in at idle speed.
You can actually add a degree after peak torque ,aprox 54-5500(up to 33* from your 32*). your graph has it dropping timing out after peak torque - that is opposite of what my n/a engine wanted on the dyno.
Do you have a wideband O2 yet?

11.2psia at idle? haha. thats a nice rough idleing cam!
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 07:11 AM
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Heres where I left off at and making carb adjustments too...

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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 07:38 AM
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what psia does it see when at cruise rpm while driving?
since you see 11.2 psia at idle you should move the map dot from 11psia-10* over to the right to about 13psia-10*. I would consider adding 2 * to the map table as well, but experiment to see what it wants
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 07:43 AM
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your rpm table could use a bit of tweaking as well.
what slahl speed is in this car?
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 07:55 AM
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8" 4500

Need to take a drive with the laptop
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 08:32 AM
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with a 4500 converter, you can add timing in all rpms BELOW stahl rpm, this will make it even quicker throttle response, and better part throttle manners, and use less fuel.
here is what I think you should try on the rpm graph:
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 08:54 AM
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Barret...do you use the MAP also ?

Whats your timing limit ?

Still thinking old school and points/HEI set-ups Don't need to destroy a new motor

Last edited by Doug G; Mar 31, 2013 at 09:09 AM.
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 09:04 AM
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yes I did on the first N/A setup, but last seasons cam had NO vacuum, so I didn't bother.
If you figure out what psia your car cruises at I can definitely recommend a map curve for you.
My timing limit was around 50 i think, I dont remember. those curves crashed with my laptop last year.
the map curves are pretty easy, you just need to know what psia it idles at, and what psia it cruises at to make sure its right.
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 09:11 AM
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OK....test drive in a few hrs.

Thanks
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 02:04 PM
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Test drive cancelled due to rain

Pulled #1 plug and I think there's way too much timing...heat mark back at threads (maybe 1/16" max from them) These are the stock AC Delcos 41-11 ? that come in a '04 Silverado...So I guess I should look into some NGK BR?? plugs.
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 02:49 PM
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Oh yeah I should have mensioned use about a br7ef plug.
There shouldnt be any heat mark unless you had the engine under load for at least an 1/8 mile pull
Did you make a tdc mark on the balancer and verify that the MSD is providing acurate timing? Also, make sure you have the correct map sensor selected
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 04:07 PM
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You could run the BR7EF's 3 pedals recommends or Autolite 103's. The Autolites will be easier to find local.
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by The stunningman
You could run the BR7EF's 3 pedals recommends or Autolite 103's. The Autolites will be easier to find local.
And I just found this....Sparkplug cross-over
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 05:37 PM
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To could run NGK tr6's, they are fairly widely available , but they are a projected tip plug .
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 3pedals
with a 4500 converter, you can add timing in all rpms BELOW stahl rpm, this will make it even quicker throttle response, and better part throttle manners, and use less fuel.
here is what I think you should try on the rpm graph:

This is a pretty interesting curve. I may run it on mine for a pass and let you know what difference it makes. Why go down to 32 and not flatline 33 all the way through? Going to high at the end will scrub off MPH, but 33 is definitely not to high.
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by The stunningman
This is a pretty interesting curve. I may run it on mine for a pass and let you know what difference it makes. Why go down to 32 and not flatline 33 all the way through? Going to high at the end will scrub off MPH, but 33 is definitely not to high.
All my stuff has liked ALOT of timing at low rpms. As in RPM's that are below the "happy" rpm of the cam. I drew the curve above for Doug based on his 4500 converter, it has lots of timing down low, but pulling it out in the areas where the engine is loaded hardest - just below where the converter tightens up. Dougs engine is very similar to the 1 built, and the dyno proved to me that the l92 chamber with aprox 11:1 compression and similar cam timing, wants 31-32* below peak torque(5400) and 32-33 above peak torque. that is why I ramped in 1 extra degree up top.
If you are to use this for yourself, consider your stahl speed and make sure you dont have the aggressive low rpm timing still in it when the converter is coming in.
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 10:44 PM
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What type fuel were you running during your dyno testing?
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 10:46 PM
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93 octane non eth
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