what oill and weight ???
Why not do the oil change at the track. They have oil containers there. See what kind of difference you get changing to 20w50. Make sure the temps are the same. I run rotella 10W30 with 1/3 bottle of the lucas break in additive in Freddie and Rotella 10W30 in my 6.0 boxtop pictured in my avatar.
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Rotella t6 5w40, cheap heavy duty synthetic oil. Get it at walmart.
http://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/rotella-...40-5l/10045687
http://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/rotella-...40-5l/10045687
Last edited by snook; Sep 24, 2013 at 11:23 AM.
Heavy Weight Lubes It seems a lot of guys are running higher viscosity oils compared to the 5w-30 OEM recommendation for LS1 and iron blocks. What benefits are driving the decision to select these heavy weight oils?
Increased Performance?
Increased oil pressure at high temps/RPM?
Price?
Availability?
I only have 1600miles on my card' 5.3 swap, and have been running Valvoline 5w-30. Its a $275 engine so I can not bring myself to spend more on oil changes then I did the whole motor! HAHA!
Increased Performance?
Increased oil pressure at high temps/RPM?
Price?
Availability?
I only have 1600miles on my card' 5.3 swap, and have been running Valvoline 5w-30. Its a $275 engine so I can not bring myself to spend more on oil changes then I did the whole motor! HAHA!
I run salvage engines and the extended rpm I run and the Texas heat breaks down the oil. I used 10/40 in the last 6.0, but it had a 6 speed. 10/40 is in my 86 TA with the 5.3.
With 10/40, the pressure would drop to 20 pounds after beating it at the track at idle. With 20/50, it is at 30 or close to it after a nice trip and hot lapping at the track.
With 10/40, the pressure would drop to 20 pounds after beating it at the track at idle. With 20/50, it is at 30 or close to it after a nice trip and hot lapping at the track.
I know these oil topics get beat to 1000 deaths on internet forums, but there are a few things that everyone should consider:
*Thicker oil reduces horsepower due to pumping losses and windage.
-When you go to thicker oil you will go slower, I have personally seen 10+ HP losses and more on engine dynos
*Thicker oil reduces volume through the system and reduces engine component cooling
-As oil flows through the engine, it carries away heat from components. Thicker oils flow less volume and reduce this cooling effect.
*Thicker oils and single grade/viscosity oils flow poorly when the engine is cold
-While this is an extreme example, I have seen a guy blow the oil filter right off of their engine revving a cold engine with thick single grade racing oil.
*If your engine is within its correct oil pressure range for its design, adding more oil pressure by changing to a thicker oil does not give your engine extra protection or extend its life. It sure as hell doesn't help your horsepower it reduces it. Finally, having a ton of oil pressure does not make your pecker bigger.
*Going too thin on motor oil to gain horsepower can lead to engine failure
-However, going extra thick does not prevent engine failure.
Oils purpose is to provide a film between parts to prevent metal to metal contact and to carry away heat. Your oil needs to be thick enough to provide a stable film, yet thin enough to flow into your engines clearances.
LS engines have very tight clearance compared to the engines of the past. That is why they come with thin oil. They are designed to have thin oil. When you put unnecessarily thick oil into an engine that is designed for a thin oil, you sacrifice flow, cooling and efficiency. When you put an overly thin oil in an old school engine, you have insufficient film to fill the larger clearances and it leads to engine failure. Pick the oil that is designed to run in the engine.
We all know that higher temperature thins oils. So thicker oils maintain their viscosity better in high heat scenarios. Vice versa for cold. I don't think it is a bad strategy to run a slightly thicker oil in a hot climate like Florida, Texas, Arizona etc. However, I would not go off the deep end. If you go to a thicker oil for the heat and you end up with oil pressure that is 5-10 pounds higher in a fully warm engine on a hot day than the recommended oil in a fully warm engine on a cool morning, you probably went to far.
If your engine is hurting and has low oil pressure, then you might go thicker to get it to hang on longer, whatever works. But, if you do not have a low oil pressure problem to compensate for, you aren't helping engine by running overly thick oil.
I am currently running Pennzoil Platinum Plus 10w-30 full synthetic with 6 ounces of Lucas TB Zinc break in oil added for zinc content.
*Thicker oil reduces horsepower due to pumping losses and windage.
-When you go to thicker oil you will go slower, I have personally seen 10+ HP losses and more on engine dynos
*Thicker oil reduces volume through the system and reduces engine component cooling
-As oil flows through the engine, it carries away heat from components. Thicker oils flow less volume and reduce this cooling effect.
*Thicker oils and single grade/viscosity oils flow poorly when the engine is cold
-While this is an extreme example, I have seen a guy blow the oil filter right off of their engine revving a cold engine with thick single grade racing oil.
*If your engine is within its correct oil pressure range for its design, adding more oil pressure by changing to a thicker oil does not give your engine extra protection or extend its life. It sure as hell doesn't help your horsepower it reduces it. Finally, having a ton of oil pressure does not make your pecker bigger.
*Going too thin on motor oil to gain horsepower can lead to engine failure
-However, going extra thick does not prevent engine failure.
Oils purpose is to provide a film between parts to prevent metal to metal contact and to carry away heat. Your oil needs to be thick enough to provide a stable film, yet thin enough to flow into your engines clearances.
LS engines have very tight clearance compared to the engines of the past. That is why they come with thin oil. They are designed to have thin oil. When you put unnecessarily thick oil into an engine that is designed for a thin oil, you sacrifice flow, cooling and efficiency. When you put an overly thin oil in an old school engine, you have insufficient film to fill the larger clearances and it leads to engine failure. Pick the oil that is designed to run in the engine.
We all know that higher temperature thins oils. So thicker oils maintain their viscosity better in high heat scenarios. Vice versa for cold. I don't think it is a bad strategy to run a slightly thicker oil in a hot climate like Florida, Texas, Arizona etc. However, I would not go off the deep end. If you go to a thicker oil for the heat and you end up with oil pressure that is 5-10 pounds higher in a fully warm engine on a hot day than the recommended oil in a fully warm engine on a cool morning, you probably went to far.
If your engine is hurting and has low oil pressure, then you might go thicker to get it to hang on longer, whatever works. But, if you do not have a low oil pressure problem to compensate for, you aren't helping engine by running overly thick oil.
I am currently running Pennzoil Platinum Plus 10w-30 full synthetic with 6 ounces of Lucas TB Zinc break in oil added for zinc content.
Last edited by speedtigger; Sep 25, 2013 at 06:19 PM.
^^ i like this post.
my comment to zane was going to be that oil pressure is just a measurement of resistance. yes, a thicker oil will bump the pressure up with more resistance. i guess if that guage showing 40 makes you feel better go for it. it doesent mean that the engine is getting any more oil, or any benifit from showing that higher pressure. if anything you are getting less oilflow to your moving parts because of the resistance of the thicker oil.
my comment to zane was going to be that oil pressure is just a measurement of resistance. yes, a thicker oil will bump the pressure up with more resistance. i guess if that guage showing 40 makes you feel better go for it. it doesent mean that the engine is getting any more oil, or any benifit from showing that higher pressure. if anything you are getting less oilflow to your moving parts because of the resistance of the thicker oil.
With over drive my car would still have 10w40 in the stang, the thicker oils is good for the 198k mile short block, the higher the mileage the thicker the oil to take up worn components like bearing is how I have always looked at it. Many high mile engines have lower oil pressure. That is why I personally run 10/40. Now the 3 speed auto and higher rpm on the freeway have shown their colors. I want the same oil pressure that I would have with 10/40, I'm not looking for more just want the same as it had in the camaro with a 6 speed and double over drive.
So yes, I completely agree with speed tigger. The higher rpm and heat break oil down fast. Especially my regular non synthetic oil. I am sure if you tested my oil in my car now it is the equivalent to 10/30 or 40 after some abuse. Would never run 50 weight anything in a car with OD. This is the first LS to run 50 weight in actually, lol. I am more comfortable with my gauge reading where it always did in any other car with OD.
So yes, I completely agree with speed tigger. The higher rpm and heat break oil down fast. Especially my regular non synthetic oil. I am sure if you tested my oil in my car now it is the equivalent to 10/30 or 40 after some abuse. Would never run 50 weight anything in a car with OD. This is the first LS to run 50 weight in actually, lol. I am more comfortable with my gauge reading where it always did in any other car with OD.