10.87 @ 127 carbed 370 six speed
12-22-2013, 10:27 AM
#41
Awesome car/pass. You are definitely hitting that little tire pretty hard!!!
I know the weight savings over the nose will help transfer better but as far
as the gearing/rpm issue; I'd consider 4.88 rears instead of the trans gear
change. The rpm recovery after the drop from the 2.97 is less ideal than the
2.66. Plenty C5Z guys that drag race like the M6 over the MN12.
Lastly it is cool to go fast with a small tire, but stalled autos and 7135 MSDs
dramatically help that cause. For a stick app.you need a taller tire(not wider)
to give you more roll-out (contact patch)...even if it's a 29x9 MT get the S-
type. The stiffer sidewall is right for heavy/high HP and/or stick cars which
really slam the sidewall on launch. You've got great MPH and with some 1.4
sixties you will see a 10.4-10.5 at 129-130.
I know the weight savings over the nose will help transfer better but as far
as the gearing/rpm issue; I'd consider 4.88 rears instead of the trans gear
change. The rpm recovery after the drop from the 2.97 is less ideal than the
2.66. Plenty C5Z guys that drag race like the M6 over the MN12.
Lastly it is cool to go fast with a small tire, but stalled autos and 7135 MSDs
dramatically help that cause. For a stick app.you need a taller tire(not wider)
to give you more roll-out (contact patch)...even if it's a 29x9 MT get the S-
type. The stiffer sidewall is right for heavy/high HP and/or stick cars which
really slam the sidewall on launch. You've got great MPH and with some 1.4
sixties you will see a 10.4-10.5 at 129-130.
12-22-2013, 12:45 PM
#43
I must say, I would be super tempted to have the tie rods, center link, idler arm ect, all colored the same purple!
The valve covers would look good matched as well.
Great work Matt, I will never go to a manual steering again since it never gained anything. Just made it more pita to drive a manual on the street.
The valve covers would look good matched as well.
Great work Matt, I will never go to a manual steering again since it never gained anything. Just made it more pita to drive a manual on the street.
12-22-2013, 02:48 PM
#45
Awesome car/pass. You are definitely hitting that little tire pretty hard!!!
I know the weight savings over the nose will help transfer better but as far
as the gearing/rpm issue; I'd consider 4.88 rears instead of the trans gear
change. The rpm recovery after the drop from the 2.97 is less ideal than the
2.66. Plenty C5Z guys that drag race like the M6 over the MN12.
Lastly it is cool to go fast with a small tire, but stalled autos and 7135 MSDs
dramatically help that cause. For a stick app.you need a taller tire(not wider)
to give you more roll-out (contact patch)...even if it's a 29x9 MT get the S-
type. The stiffer sidewall is right for heavy/high HP and/or stick cars which
really slam the sidewall on launch. You've got great MPH and with some 1.4
sixties you will see a 10.4-10.5 at 129-130.
I know the weight savings over the nose will help transfer better but as far
as the gearing/rpm issue; I'd consider 4.88 rears instead of the trans gear
change. The rpm recovery after the drop from the 2.97 is less ideal than the
2.66. Plenty C5Z guys that drag race like the M6 over the MN12.
Lastly it is cool to go fast with a small tire, but stalled autos and 7135 MSDs
dramatically help that cause. For a stick app.you need a taller tire(not wider)
to give you more roll-out (contact patch)...even if it's a 29x9 MT get the S-
type. The stiffer sidewall is right for heavy/high HP and/or stick cars which
really slam the sidewall on launch. You've got great MPH and with some 1.4
sixties you will see a 10.4-10.5 at 129-130.
the set on the car right now have 9 passes and they're already tiger striped a bit so i know they're getting the crap beat out of them. i'm hoping that the new double adjustable shocks will help with the 60' a bit too.
12-22-2013, 03:44 PM
#46
The stiff wall will help a bunch. I also hate to switch to a 4.88 gear and 28",tire because I still enjoy street driving from time to time. Unless you switch to 28" street tire as well.
How well is that jegster Tq arm built? I broke a edelbrock before going to the BMR extreme duty. Now I'm looking at doing the mini ladder bar / Pete z bars for rear. Eliminate the need for anti roll bar as well
How well is that jegster Tq arm built? I broke a edelbrock before going to the BMR extreme duty. Now I'm looking at doing the mini ladder bar / Pete z bars for rear. Eliminate the need for anti roll bar as well
12-22-2013, 10:05 PM
#50
yeah, i was surprised to see it. i pulled the slicks off the car after the last race and put my street tires back on for storage. when i did that, i pulled the valve cores out of the slicks. when the tires relaxed, they relaxed in the shape of faint wrinkles all the way around the sidewall. they have 9 passes, lol. Buddy from M/T told me to put tubes in them, and suggested rotating every pass 
12-28-2013, 07:27 PM
#54
i got the transverse mounts and rear shocks in the car today. to begin with these mounts were a first run from PA Racing, something that Jason and his fabricator spun up for me after looking at a picture without any real dimensions. the mounts were made with a strange shock in mind, which use a 1" side bushing. my shocks use a 1.130" wide bushing, so i had to trim my bushings down. not really a big deal. here's a picture of the shocks, one bushing trimmed, the other still stock.
I tweaked the brackets a little bit to follow the lines of the shock mounts, then drilled holes for 7/16" hardware to keep them from rotating. then gave them a shot of satin black paint and torqued them on.
and i spun up a little video to kind of give an overview on what these things do for you
I tweaked the brackets a little bit to follow the lines of the shock mounts, then drilled holes for 7/16" hardware to keep them from rotating. then gave them a shot of satin black paint and torqued them on.
and i spun up a little video to kind of give an overview on what these things do for you
