Carbureted LSX Forum Carburetors | Carbed Intakes | Carb Tuning Tips for LSX Enthusiasts

Beater build s10

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-30-2014, 10:09 PM
  #241  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
 
BigEd_72455's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 1,485
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts

Default

Dont be a crybaby bitch, you know you got the idea from my project. LOL

Besides, there is a HIGH probability I will be getting the turbo 350 delivered to the house tomorrow. Not absolutely certain, but very high probability.

Then it will be time to get a trans yoke and put it back together within 3 weeks. It wont have a stall converter in it yet, but should have one before mid march if finances allow.
Old 01-31-2014, 03:20 AM
  #242  
In-Zane Moderator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
 
ZONES89RS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Conroe, Texas
Posts: 11,939
Received 32 Likes on 19 Posts

Default

I need a rear and a drive shaft.
Old 02-01-2014, 10:26 PM
  #243  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
 
BigEd_72455's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 1,485
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts

Default

how much of this stuff you got together? The other S-10 guys are normally just replacing an explorer 8.8's long drive shaft to the short one and cutting down the long axle tube exactly 3 inches. Makes both sides exactly the same length.

I myself am going to be running the stock S-10 rear for a while with a mini-spool. Since it will primarily be drag truck duties. May even swap the 3.08 for 4.56 thick gears since this rear should hold up as long as I don't use a trans-brake on it. Foot braking with nitrous. May actually add a delay box for the nitrous so it doesn't hit off the line but once the truck is rolling about half a second so its not so hard on the rear end.
Old 02-01-2014, 10:36 PM
  #244  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
 
BigEd_72455's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 1,485
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts

Default

Oh yeah, if you grab a mustang driveshaft it should also be long enough but I am not absolutely certain on that. I have 2 different drive shafts at the house that are 1 inch apart. So I can try a couple different length yokes to fit the driveshaft the best I can.
Old 02-02-2014, 01:23 AM
  #245  
In-Zane Moderator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
 
ZONES89RS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Conroe, Texas
Posts: 11,939
Received 32 Likes on 19 Posts

Default

I only need a drive shaft and a rear end.
Old 02-03-2014, 01:42 AM
  #246  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
 
BigEd_72455's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 1,485
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts

Default

Have you got the engine installed into the S-10 yet or is it coming from something else to go in? I ask because I have a little piece of information that might help you gain a bit of clearance and set the engine down a tad bit more.

Depending on what oil pan you are running, you could move the mounts down the stock frame rails I would guess half an inch or so on each side to set the engine down a bit more. Not sure what the actual gain would wind up being, but my 2.8 mounts in the stock location have the bolts almost all the way out and what looks to be about an inch or a bit more of clearance on the oil pan in the middle. I will attach pictures to show you.
Old 02-03-2014, 01:46 AM
  #247  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
 
BigEd_72455's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 1,485
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts

Default



Old 02-03-2014, 12:36 PM
  #248  
In-Zane Moderator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
 
ZONES89RS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Conroe, Texas
Posts: 11,939
Received 32 Likes on 19 Posts

Default

Why did you opt for those rubber mounts? I got the urethane pieces. I know I'll need them the way I beat my rides.

Using the H3 pan. It hangs down from what I've seen so I won't be trying to drop it any lower than I should to keep from bottoming out.
Old 02-03-2014, 09:02 PM
  #249  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
 
BigEd_72455's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 1,485
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts

Default

You can see it hanging just barely under my cross member. It might be about 3/4 inch total because the drain plug hump is the lowest part of the pan.

As for the rubber mounts, they were included in the kit when I bought the 2.8 mounts and the ls block mounts. All came together.

Not the best or greatest, but they are holding up for now. I know they have urethane inserts available that you can open the stock clamshell up and put inside.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motor-Mount-Insert-Chevrolet-2WD-S10-Pickup-1993-2-8L-6-Cyl-2-8L-6-Cyl-Energy-Su-/110815510057?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19cd1e7e29&vxp=mtr

Last edited by BigEd_72455; 02-03-2014 at 09:11 PM.
Old 02-04-2014, 03:20 AM
  #250  
In-Zane Moderator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
 
ZONES89RS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Conroe, Texas
Posts: 11,939
Received 32 Likes on 19 Posts

Default

I got the kit with the round mounts that are urethane. Pretty solid pieces from the looks of it.

I need to post pics of parts.
Old 02-04-2014, 12:48 PM
  #251  
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
 
snook's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 320
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by ZONES89RS
I got the kit with the round mounts that are urethane. Pretty solid pieces from the looks of it.

I need to post pics of parts.
Same as I got. Didnt want to skimp on them. The others wear quick.

My oil pan is a little above on the crossmember of my blazer
Old 02-04-2014, 01:18 PM
  #252  
In-Zane Moderator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
 
ZONES89RS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Conroe, Texas
Posts: 11,939
Received 32 Likes on 19 Posts

Default

Mine should hang about a inch below.
Old 02-06-2014, 09:14 PM
  #253  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
 
BigEd_72455's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 1,485
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts

Default

I will check into them if you can get me a part number or something to find the price of them.
Old 02-07-2014, 11:31 PM
  #254  
Teching In
 
5.3/c10's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: conroe,tx
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Sounds like a fun build! Your not done yet?
Old 02-08-2014, 09:50 AM
  #255  
In-Zane Moderator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
 
ZONES89RS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Conroe, Texas
Posts: 11,939
Received 32 Likes on 19 Posts

Default

Have not had a chance to start, last week was the UFC and Super Bowl, but I'm hoping the weather is nice enough today that I can take the motor out of both trucks, or at least the 94 and get the 4.8 cammed and put the valve springs in.
Old 02-16-2014, 02:41 AM
  #256  
In-Zane Moderator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
 
ZONES89RS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Conroe, Texas
Posts: 11,939
Received 32 Likes on 19 Posts

Default

Got to get some stuff officially rolling today!

Motor removed from the 94 gmc and the motor and front clip from the s10 removed.

Was so so nice to get some head way. And I had a pit crew helping if you can tell from the first pic. Was nice to have a hand.

Now I have to start prepping, throwing the cam in, springs, ect.

I found the crank sensor was melted a bit on the outside and the connector from the MSD was melted to it. Super head scratcher. Don't know what I will do about it but I am going to see if it will go back together with no problem? Just strange.

Also there was some random metal about 1/2 inch thick under the driver side of the truck between the frame and core support and some welding on the bumper support. This truck has been in a fender bender at one time. Oh well, she still a good truck.





I'll post the rest of the pics later, photobucket went full retard....
Old 02-16-2014, 11:03 AM
  #257  
In-Zane Moderator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
 
ZONES89RS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Conroe, Texas
Posts: 11,939
Received 32 Likes on 19 Posts

Default

Here are some more:







Had a pic of the engine bay empty but deleted it. I'll take some more today.
Old 02-16-2014, 11:59 AM
  #258  
In-Zane Moderator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
 
ZONES89RS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Conroe, Texas
Posts: 11,939
Received 32 Likes on 19 Posts

Default

Also, if you look at the crank position sensor in the pic of the 4.8, you can see it's not exactly gray like it should be. For some reason, allot of heat got to that area and melted the crank sensor to the connector. I got it off but I am completely lost to how that would happen. It is not exactly on a location that gets that hot.

I am hoping that it will still work fine, but a zip tie may be needed for me to keep the connector on. It is burnt looking.

So, if anyone has had the same issue or an idea, that would be great to expand upon.
Old 02-16-2014, 11:30 PM
  #259  
In-Zane Moderator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
 
ZONES89RS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Conroe, Texas
Posts: 11,939
Received 32 Likes on 19 Posts

Default

Got the cam in, valve springs, prepped the frame and installed the mounts. Set the engine in and see what it looks like. Think I'll need to bring the engine from as far back as I could set it to a inch forward.

Bad thing, seems the header in the passenger side doesn't like the AC box. So, not sure what to do at this point. I was unaware that it would not fit with an AC box, if I had known I would have went another direction with that purchase. Maybe there will be something I can do?

Pics to come, photobucket app or photbucket itself is being retarded.
Old 02-17-2014, 02:38 AM
  #260  
In-Zane Moderator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
 
ZONES89RS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Conroe, Texas
Posts: 11,939
Received 32 Likes on 19 Posts

Default









And here is the BS I have to deal with for the AC box....



Quick Reply: Beater build s10



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:32 PM.