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2015 SpeedMullet updates

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Old 06-08-2015, 03:54 PM
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it just banged the 7700 rpm limiter. no i'm not datalogging at all. i think i have an inside recording of that pass. i quit trying to get video of stuff after that pass. i didn't have my cousin with me who normally takes care of all that and i was trying to do too much considering i was also driving and trying to diagnose all of the dumb problems i had.
Old 06-18-2015, 08:49 PM
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well a few things to update.

got the trans fixed and i've driven the car around the block to validate it is ok. everything mechanically seems healthy.

the msd box dumped my tune again...very tired of that, but can't afford to change to the daytona sensors box at the moment. i've got my cousins box and will put that in for the time being. hopefully MSD will play ball and replace my box.

i made this up today. it's a momentary switch that is activated by the shifter in first gear only. it's wired to the step retard and will pull timing in 1st gear only. hopefully this will help with my 60's

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racing next friday...i think i'm about ready
Old 06-19-2015, 06:51 AM
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So you have it wire into the nitrous retard wiring and not the 2-step, correct ?

Just checking
Old 06-19-2015, 09:31 AM
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Waiting for that 9 second post Matt! Lol
Old 06-19-2015, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Doug G
So you have it wire into the nitrous retard wiring and not the 2-step, correct ?

Just checking
correct, and i've already checked function. next step is to move line lock to it's own switch and dedicate the momentary switch on the steering wheel to 2-step only. this will eventually move to the clutch pedal (with some sort of interrupt that will only allow it to work when launching). for now, i will just have to have separate buttons operated by me. LL will go on a button on the shifter.
Old 06-19-2015, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by thirdgenbum
correct, and i've already checked function. next step is to move line lock to it's own switch and dedicate the momentary switch on the steering wheel to 2-step only. this will eventually move to the clutch pedal (with some sort of interrupt that will only allow it to work when launching). for now, i will just have to have separate buttons operated by me. LL will go on a button on the shifter.
Putting the two step on the pedal will be easy. Run it in series through a switch on the shifter like you have for the retard so it will only work in first gear on the launch. Once the clutch is released it will open the circuit and it won't matter if the shifter remains in first.
Old 06-19-2015, 08:09 PM
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yes, wiring it isn't hard. it's getting it physically on the car that is going to be the problem, lol. i also have a switch specifically in mind that i want to use, and it's a little pricey. i have many things on my list of things to purchase this season, lol.
Old 06-20-2015, 08:24 AM
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No LL here, but do want to hook up a button for the 2-step for the times I'd like to "play" with a ricer/Stang/ETC at a light....may even try it at the strip to see if it might help any ?
Those buttons aren't really cheap, but I have an idea.
I do have the nitrous button and MSD box wired up...never tested yet.
Old 06-20-2015, 08:36 AM
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this is the switch i want to use. it's adjustable.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181625313011?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Old 06-20-2015, 01:41 PM
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Hey Matt, what trans you have again ?
Guy on a 1st Gen forum was asking about launching on leafs w/ DR's...I told him the DR's aren't that great for a manual box and to get some ET streets or the like (bias ply) and posted your car launching (although not on leafs)....he was shocked you had a T56 and was holding the power.
Old 06-20-2015, 04:59 PM
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Tell him a T56 is a beast. They hold 450 Tq stock and will hold more, that's just the rating. And if the leaf spring car has no suspension, tell him to get some cal tracs.
Old 06-20-2015, 05:24 PM
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post this one also, stock t56 with 80k miles on it. 100 passes plus so far. Think Matt would agree a good clutch that releases right and of course we can drive them. In my eyes there is a right way to beat on it and a wrong way. Not saying it won't break lol.
Old 06-20-2015, 07:13 PM
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yup, mine is a tick performance level 3 viperized unit with faceplate and a pump. i beat the poop out of it 2 weeks ago. when i pulled the tailshaft housing off expecting to find all sorts of carnage i was pleasantly surprised to find basically zero wear the magnets had some strange slivers on it but i think it may be from the faceplating. those things DO wear...
Old 06-20-2015, 11:13 PM
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yes, when you run a crashbox, there will be metallic slivers in the tans oil ALL THE TIME.
I use 2 relays and a clutch switch to be able to do a burnout with my line lock, and then stage and set the brakes lightly on the pre stage bulb using the button, then bump in and be able to light the stage bulb, and immediately go clutch to floor, and release the button, so as to launch off the clutch pedal only.
If you want the wiring diagram just ask.
that clutch switch you linked to is the right way to do it... Im using a brake light switch on the clutch pedal, and it allows some rpm flareup at lauch, and is not adjustable
Old 06-23-2015, 09:43 AM
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i swapped out the front springs for some softer ones. the existing springs were a 10" 175# spring and i replaced them with a 12" 125# spring. the front end is nice and loose now. I believe that with these things I will finally get back to proper weight transfer and hope to see the times drop.

Racing friday
Old 06-29-2015, 07:42 AM
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I'm happy to report that it looks like what i'm doing is working! I pulled 4* of timing in first gear and finally got the car to want to stick to the ground. Unfortunately it was at a racetrack that i don't normally go to, so the racetrack is now an unknown variable and i am anxious to get back to one of the tracks that i frequent more often.

I made 6 passes. All 6 60'd either a 1.47 or a 1.48. I found in my replay footage that i'm now dragging the motor down to about 4200-4500 (5K 2-step) where before i was just blowing the tires off. Of 6 passes, 4 were solid full passes, of which the car ran 2-6.67's, a 6.69 and a 6.70 (was an 1/8 mile track). I will try upping the launch rpm again and see how much i can get to stick now. The DA was about 2000'. The MPH on the 4 full passes were 103.8-104.3. i now need to make a conscious effort to get the 2-step off the steering wheel and on the pedal as one of the passes i accidently held the button, lol!
Old 06-29-2015, 12:22 PM
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here's some videos. first two were caught down track by a fellow MM member, the last is a helmet view.



Old 06-29-2015, 01:38 PM
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Nice work man. Eventually I said F it and just set my RPM with the throttle and stopped worrying about the 2 step. Was one less thing I had to mess with.
Old 06-29-2015, 02:19 PM
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i need it to work for consistency. you can't cut a good light every time that way.
Old 06-29-2015, 03:22 PM
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6.67 looks like about a .40, getting it done after all that work

What track, little sketchy looking


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