2015 SpeedMullet updates
07-02-2015, 12:17 PM
#241
the 3054ST is a 28x9 (by the sidewall) that measures 27.3" tall static. i have calculated that they grow ~.7" through the course of the run. of course you know the 3055S is a 28x10.5, but it measures 28" static, so i would need to change gearing to adjust. my transmission started life as an fbody transmission and uses the same 2.66 first gear yours does, so the increase in tire contact patch and gearing (if i did infact move to a 4.71) would benefit the overall package i think.
07-04-2015, 09:19 AM
#243
i made 3 passes before the rain came last night. that was good enough. i feel like this racetrack will simply not hold a 2-step clutch dump no matter what i do. i pulled 6* and still blitzed the tires hard. the last pass i put all but 2* back in during 1st gear, and did a hard slip. results were the best pass in "normal" weather. i don't get it, lol.
the video shows that even with rebound set at 18/18 (as stiff as it'll get) and compression at 16/18, the shocks still cannot control the hit
the video shows that even with rebound set at 18/18 (as stiff as it'll get) and compression at 16/18, the shocks still cannot control the hit
07-04-2015, 11:58 AM
#245
When the track is that bad, I've found that I need to lower launch rpm. I know that this can make it bog with a normal clutch, but it may be the most consistent.
This is where an adjustable clutch helps, it allows the lower launch rpm, and will slip briefly to prevent the bog.
If the track is not there, nothing you can do about it but lower the launch rpm
This is where an adjustable clutch helps, it allows the lower launch rpm, and will slip briefly to prevent the bog.
If the track is not there, nothing you can do about it but lower the launch rpm
07-04-2015, 02:24 PM
#246
10 Second Club
Ha, getting there 
I think you'll get that 9.99 or better once you figure out the launch. Those sidewalls just collapsed at the hit...Looked like 5-6 revs on the tires at the hit.
Stiffer springs ? since you were at full stiff on the shocks ?
I think you'll get that 9.99 or better once you figure out the launch. Those sidewalls just collapsed at the hit...Looked like 5-6 revs on the tires at the hit.
Stiffer springs ? since you were at full stiff on the shocks ?
07-05-2015, 10:48 AM
#249
Think a good quality front shock would help. Looks like your hitting the tires real hard and I have adjusted my rear lca up one hole to not hit as hard and that help. Also seems the front isn't transferring enough to combat the hit and wants to unload the tires.
07-06-2015, 07:58 AM
#252
You may need a shock in the rear with special valving. You really need more compression in the rear shocks on a stick car, or anything that makes considerable power that hits the tires relatively hard.
Keeping the tire stuck to the track and from "basketballing" like yours is doing, is the compression settings job. Extension(rebound) also plays a part, as hitting the tire hard with a looser extension setting may exasperate the basketballing effect.
Stick cars just hit the tire violently, there is no way around that.
A good front shock with stiffer compression will also hold the nose of the car up longer effectively keeping weight transferred on the rear tires longer as well. You'd have the ability to then control the rate of front end rise and the rate that it drops back down separately.
Keeping the tire stuck to the track and from "basketballing" like yours is doing, is the compression settings job. Extension(rebound) also plays a part, as hitting the tire hard with a looser extension setting may exasperate the basketballing effect.
Stick cars just hit the tire violently, there is no way around that.
A good front shock with stiffer compression will also hold the nose of the car up longer effectively keeping weight transferred on the rear tires longer as well. You'd have the ability to then control the rate of front end rise and the rate that it drops back down separately.
07-07-2015, 06:00 PM
#254
I'm going to say all the massive changes you made at one time are just going to take time to adjust. Not that the parts may or may not be perfect, but you did change a ton of stuff and that hard to get back to after. Previous setup that was working.
07-08-2015, 05:06 PM
#255
It really just depends on the power band of the engine, which you should be able to turn it another 100-200rpm and possibly squeak something else out of it.
A LLSR in this thing would be insane!
07-11-2015, 09:54 AM
#259
well, i got my new 27.5x4.5-15 front runners on the car thursday. last night i got home and put it on the trailer getting ready for the race today.
i really like the way it looks.
then, i load the car and back it into the driveway. i hear a *pop* and the trailer shook a little. look in the mirror to find this:
uh....
so yeah. pulled the car back off, backed the trailer into the garage and had the axle out in 20 mins. Thankfully tractor supply has axles on the shelf.
back together
headed to the track in about an hour.
i really like the way it looks.
then, i load the car and back it into the driveway. i hear a *pop* and the trailer shook a little. look in the mirror to find this:
uh....
so yeah. pulled the car back off, backed the trailer into the garage and had the axle out in 20 mins. Thankfully tractor supply has axles on the shelf.
back together
headed to the track in about an hour.
