CTK30

Building an engine for my road course late model



It's an ls1 out of a 97 corvette, trying to keep it somewhat budget

So far I have

Probe FPS forged pistons
Scat I beam rods
ported 862 heads with pac 1905 springs
Ati Balancer
650 double pumper with choke horn
Moroso 3 stage dry sump
Champ dry sump pan
Clevite H bearings, cam bearings, total seal rings

Need to figure out what lifters I'm going to use, It seems like the morel drop in lifters are pretty decent. Will be shifting before 7000 rpm, probably around 6500-6800

Also thinking about running a dual plane intake, maybe the holley

I need to plug the factory oil pump galley up also for the external dry sump

Will be getting a custom ground cam.

Flow sheet for heads



The accessory mounts I've made so far



And dry sump mock up, not sure how I'm going to mount it yet. Have HTD pulleys now

Doug G

Looks like a plan to me

Only thing I have to ask is how are you turning the water pump ? (mine is reverse rotation)

CTK30

This pump should be standard rotation

Like this

http://www.wegnerautomotive.com/data...9_1152x576.jpg

Doug G

Wasn't sure what pump you had and was only pointing it out just in case

CTK30

Yeah, I was fairly certain all the stewart pumps like this are standard rotation, might need to verify though as I bought this used

It was weird though, it wouldn't fit without spacers, I ended up with 3/4" spacers, but that was to space everything out to have enough clearance. I think it may have been milled for a motor plate

backintrouble

I don't think you should get a dual plane

CTK30

I was kind of basing it on this test

http://www.hotrod.com/features/1507-...ifolds-tested/

And also an engine build from someone that has built many cars for the series

My heads will flow a little better than his though

CTK30

I decided not to use the 10an fitting on the pan for the oil inlet because I don't want to trust this pan to seal with 60-70psi of oil flowing through it, the rail isn't the flattest. I'm going to use an adapter on the rear of the block instead

What is your opinions of roller rockers vs stock rockers? I found some roller rockers that will cost about the same as the trunion upgrade. The springs are 394 rate so I figured the stock sliding wouldn't be the best

At this point I think I'm lacking a cam, lifters, an intake, timing chain, msd 6010, and probably some random stuff I forgot

Need to do some research on the timing chain



Keyway cut



Plus on pan rail



Plug in front



Oil pan

backintrouble

I can't really criticise on how you chose your manifold because I based my manifold choice off that test lol
I used the same way to plumb in my oil feed line, engine not going yet so I can't give feed back.
Heard about the MSD controllers being hit and miss- have you looked into the Daytona sensor controller?

shnoog

Ohh nice. This is almost identical to the engine combo i used on my road race 180sx. Although i just flycut my stock pistons instead of using forged parts for now.

I used johnson slr lifters with pac springs and the trunion kit. I got a custom eps cam that ended up around the 242/248 at .05 109lsa. I can't quite remember the lift off the top of my head but its pretty much a t-rex cam.
I'm also using a holley e85 xp 650 on a vic jr with the 6010.

I only just got to the point this week where I'm wiring the whole car up, so it's still a few weeks away from first startup but i can't wait to see how your car performs!

CTK30

Heads arrived, will get some better pictures this weekend. Might have a few questions on what to look for before running them

I think I'll go with the katech chain, I guess a double roller needs clearancing. I need to figure out the timing chain dampener now, the one that fits an ls1 is around 100$ and the ls2 one is 10$

What would be the pros/cons of going to a 1.8 crane lifter? I have some available to me for a really good price

CTK30

Yeah I may end up with a victor intake, have a little time to decide. I have seen the daytona sensor controller and that may be an option when it comes time to buy a controller

Let me know how it goes on startup, get a video of how it sounds.

I'm going to have jones racing cams grind me a custom cam once I get all my parts sorted out

Also, I bought the wrong rods, I needed .945 bushed rods and had to get h beams

79_T/A

iTrader: (1)

Be careful with those champ pans. I have experience with them on K&N pro series motors, they always leaked and caused problems. Another issue is that pan (along with the common Moroso pan they use now) is designed for turning left, and they starve for oil if you dont add a pickup on the opposite side. This summers race at Watkins Glen - 8 motors (yes 8) were lost between practice, qualifying, and the race. All starved of oil, locked up solid, and they all blew the same rod out the same side of the block.

Do yourself a favor and get a better pan. Yes, I know you are trying to keep a budget, but a little money now will save plenty of headaches in the future. Plus you can always transfer the pan to another motor in the future.

Love the car, been following the project on corner carvers. I plan on a similar build in the future after my current projects get finished. Can't beat the cost:performance ratio, and you can't get a safer track car. You got a screaming deal on that chassis too.

CTK30

Thanks, I did get a killer deal. Might not be able to transfer the pan if it throws a rod lol

Yeah The flange wasn't square at all when I first got it. I was able to get it to sit flat though. It has a little crack that I need to weld up also

All the dry sump options seem to have the pickups on one side from what I could see

I guess my options are to either add a pickup myself or have a pan custom made.

This pan was from a k&n car I believe, I hope it's not too deep and clears my cross member. I think I set the crank center line at 11-12" with the sbc. I was guessing ride height also. I think the transmission will still be the low point.

The whole no 153 tooth fly wheel thing is going to cost me a little also, I'm just going to get a whole clutch/belhousing kit with a reverse mount starter. Doesn't seem worth while to piece it together on the ls1. Going to be a pricey drivetrain between that and the transmission unfortunately

I found this, seems tempting

http://sdparts.com/i-21039308-canton...lding-req.html

Bill71

Double roller shouldn't be a problem because you are removing the stock oil pump. Be sure to plug the oil galley that is normally fed by the pump at the front of the block under the timing cover.

Bill71

I am using the 3" deep Aviaid pan. Was told by them it will work in left and right turns because of the dropped sump. You may want to check them out.

http://www.aviaid.com/shopsite_sc/st...ls7-chevy.html

shnoog

I went with a modified canton 12-200 pan. At the time I asked if it was necessary to have pickups on the opposite side and i was told the crank will flick the majority of the oil onto the one side anyway so it's generally not needed. How that differs with the windage tray on the ls motors still installed i'm not sure.

Since you have that pan already you could weld in some ramps and baffles with trapdoors to try and keep the oil over the pickup tubes under all conditions.

79_T/A

iTrader: (1)

NASCAR mandates the pan in a spec engine package. They don't care if you lose an engine, it's more money in their pocket when you have to spend 30k on a new one. We would love to spend the extra money up front and run a Dailey system so we get better life from the engines. NASCAR tells us to get bent.

I would at least try to put an extra pickup in the pan. To those familiar with dry sumps but not these pans, they are not the typical aviad or Dailey systems. The moroso/champ pans barely have any baffling or windage control. It can definitely be a capable system if setup properly. I would even look at adding an Improved Racing crank scraper. Cheap and effective - every little bit of oil control helps especially with the speeds this car will be doing on track.

79_T/A

iTrader: (1)

Your crank height should be ok, I have to check but I think our new chassis is 12" per the rules. It's most likely an old k&n pan, we used to run those before the current moroso, which is basically the same pan.

While costly, the whole reverse mount starter/button flywheel setup is worth the money. Clears up so much space to work on the engine, and you will love a tiny clutch on track. Look for a used k&n setup ready to bolt up to an LS motor.

CTK30

I'll have to do more research on oil control, but my first thought is to add a one way screen. Baffles on the front and rear to keep the oil from splashing up would also probably help, could even go as far as adding one to the side that isn't kicked out. That along with the extra pickup wouldn't be too difficult and should be pretty effective. What about windage trays? if I did the screen option I may not have to worry about using one at all



Finding a used set up will probably be tough, there are a bunch of chevy bellhousings from ecr on ebay though, not sure if they would work