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Old 05-29-2017, 12:09 PM
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I actually bought the cheap ebay fabbed covers. Buddy fabbed up the baffles inside. welded the bungs in the covers. they are at the intake side of cover in the front. People say they don't work well, and they don't help. I just let them keep on believing. LOL Id almost bet money you pull mine off and lose about a tenth, if not a tenth exactly.
Old 05-30-2017, 06:56 PM
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I use a catch can mounted to the drivers side head with a baffle on top, two lines, one from each valve cover. I think 1/2 or 5/8ths. works perfect.
Use to run the pan evac, like mentioned but I was always told to run open headers with it. Now on stroker motors that seem to have a little more crank case pressure, my personal opinion I would not use it. starts sucking everything out of the valve cover lol
Old 05-30-2017, 07:02 PM
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Old 06-02-2017, 06:28 AM
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Hey bowtied, I'm assuming the other line goes to your PCV? Excuse my ignorance.
Old 06-02-2017, 07:45 AM
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I do not have an actual PVC valve. I vent it to my can that has a breather.
Lot of engine guys I have seen told me to either vent it to outside air or a catch can, never back into the intake. Now on a very mild build I could see using a PCV as you don't have a lot of blow by. My stroker motor with larger ring gaps sees more oil in the air stream so I vent it to the can,
Old 06-02-2017, 07:53 AM
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Thanks for sharing that info.
Old 06-14-2017, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Bowtiedford

I do not have an actual PVC valve. I vent it to my can that has a breather.
Lot of engine guys I have seen told me to either vent it to outside air or a catch can, never back into the intake. Now on a very mild build I could see using a PCV as you don't have a lot of blow by. My stroker motor with larger ring gaps sees more oil in the air stream so I vent it to the can,
Your explanation is spot on! But there are people on here that believe that by pulling vacuum and sending that crap back into your intake is like the greatest invention ever when it comes to venting the crankcase....

It's still kind of like what the old timers did with the vent tubes off the valve covers tied to the header collectors but instead of gumming up the exhaust pipes and oiling the roads you oil your engine and gum up parts....
Old 06-15-2017, 04:42 AM
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Once upon a time, long, long ago....that's how they vented the crank case, just a hose hanging off a valve cover. Then came emissions and clean air act when the PCV was run back into the intake so the engine could "re-burn" the bad gasses.(blow by)
Old 06-15-2017, 05:09 PM
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So in other words bowtiedford is not running a PCV. Just a more sanitary (and less effective) version of a vented fill cap.

If you don't want to suck oil back into your intake but still want positive ring sealing from taking a suction on the crankcase than stick an oil separating catch can in the loop. Some are better than others

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...catch-can.html
Old 06-16-2017, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Bowtiedford

I do not have an actual PVC valve. I vent it to my can that has a breather.
Lot of engine guys I have seen told me to either vent it to outside air or a catch can, never back into the intake. Now on a very mild build I could see using a PCV as you don't have a lot of blow by. My stroker motor with larger ring gaps sees more oil in the air stream so I vent it to the can,
This is either missing something, or it is wrong. There is no vent in this picture (you are not showing the vent, is there a vent? It should be obviously shown, not hidden), only an extended crankcase volume. The crankcase in this picture will inflate when the engine produces blow-by (all engines do) and it will put pressure on all the oil seals and eventually ruin a seal (front main, rear main, valve cover, any oil containment seal). The crankcase needs to be vented SOMEWHERE. either to the atmosphere or otherwise, but you cannot just seal it off.

Originally Posted by TXsilverado
is it a kit that you use? what does the check valve do?
The same thing vein valves do for blood returning to the heart- prevents 'back flow'.

Originally Posted by TXsilverado
I'll bite. how does venting the crank case to the exhaust increase hp?
It is a well known fundamental of engine performance/building that increased vacuum in the crankcase results with a power increase- and other benefits. Something like 5% increase in power is possible on most engines. Serious racing engines use a vacuum pump driven by a belt (the power used to drive the pump is less than the power gained by running the vacuum). It doesn't matter how you produce the vacuum- exhaust driven, pump driven, turbo inlet driven, there is some benefit, some other than power. Cleaner crankcase vapors are consistent with cleaner engine oil and cleaner longer lasting engines (thus all factory engines include some form of OEM pcv which allows intake manifold vacuum to pull out dirty vapor and replaces it with clean atmospheric air).
Old 06-16-2017, 04:50 AM
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Look at the picture of his motor there is a breather on the catch can. . .
Old 06-16-2017, 08:42 AM
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Exactly, that's why there is a pic lol
Old 06-16-2017, 09:08 AM
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Mine is the most common set up for carb engines, FI I had a different setup. On the engine dyno we have seen hp increase when a pump is running but we mostly installed it on dedicates drag motors. Only downside you will be draining that catch can quite a bit drag racing. There a few ways to vent, some are better then others and also how loose the motor is setup for how much blow by you have to take in consideration. On yellow bullet there a pages and pages on arguments on what works what doesn't lol.
Old 06-16-2017, 01:12 PM
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well it shouldn't be too hard to draw a pic of the breather on the can. I didn't associate the picture with the picture, hell you guys know I cant read. XD
Old 06-16-2017, 02:29 PM
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Can't read, we'll that's why I posted a real pic first, and I'm definitely no Picaso lol
Old 06-19-2017, 07:46 PM
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Here's mine
-12 from each valve cover to breather tank. Not completely finished.
Name:  4101D10D-D8D4-4057-8FCA-9F259A7EB98D_zpsgivwf9la.jpg
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Last edited by dmracing; 06-19-2017 at 09:38 PM.
Old 06-19-2017, 08:34 PM
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my plan right now is to see how much oil comes off the valve cover as i raise the boost of the 5.3 2002 model i have. That front left hose in the above picture that goes to the catch can- right now on my engine, its just an open hose that leads nowhere, it can just spew oil all over the place (so I will see it) and so far I've gotten up to 3psi of boost without a drop coming out. I won't run much more than 10psi so I still have a ways to go. pretty excited to see what happens with it. The trick to keeping the oil in the crankcase is to keep the pressure down- so for example, my PCV valve (on the other valve cover) it leaks. I found it leaking during a routine pressure test. SO I already know that at some boost pressure X, the hose I just spoke of would probably leak because of the leaky PCV valve. So my recommendation to those of you with PCV valves is to always perform pressure tests on the crankcase to ensure it does not become positively pressurized during boost. Basically I plan to setup the pressure test again and try different PCV valves until I get one that seals up 100% under pressure. You can buy "high performance" pcv valves but that is beyond the scope of my junkyard budget/build.
Old 06-20-2017, 06:30 AM
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[QUOTE=Bowtiedford;19650933]Mine is the most common set up for carb engines.[/QUOTE


What is in your catch can when you drain it, with it set up is way? And how often do you drain it?
Old 06-20-2017, 07:11 AM
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I have moisture and oil mixed in it lol. I really haven't measured it exactly but after maybe 2 to 3 weeks of driving I might have about a shot glass mix? Now drag racing I will drain it after I'm done as it will have almost that much of oil in it from the blow by. My engine is set up loose for nitrous and I run E85 so there is also more contamination I assume.
My SBE 6.0 I probably could have gone a month without even checking it out. I would have had more moisture then oil on that motor. But big difference in clearances.
Old 06-21-2017, 04:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Bowtiedford
I have moisture and oil mixed in it lol. I really haven't measured it exactly but after maybe 2 to 3 weeks of driving I might have about a shot glass mix? Now drag racing I will drain it after I'm done as it will have almost that much of oil in it from the blow by. My engine is set up loose for nitrous and I run E85 so there is also more contamination I assume.
My SBE 6.0 I probably could have gone a month without even checking it out. I would have had more moisture then oil on that motor. But big difference in clearances.
The reason I ask you this is that is exactly how we had ours hooked up originally, with very similar results. We also were on E85 and motor was set up for Nos. Anyway, a friend of ours was running close to the same setup. He was draining his catch can after every pass. And to my surprise it was full of water, no oil. I looked a little loser and saw the extra line going above the carb. So I started asking what catch can he had. He told me he had his that way and said had similar results as well. He said he talked to a few people and was told he needed some type of positive ventilation because they didnt think his rings were sealing properly. He said he was going to put on the old school evac setup off the headers when he found this setup. He said after switching to the Mighty Mouse can he stopped seeing oil in the can and it seemed like the car just ran all around better. A tenth better in fact. Now seeing all that water he got out of it we got concerned about ours. We didnt want to cut holes in our Kooks headers so we got the same catch can. To our amazment we were now draining our can all the time just like he was. And no more oil. Now I cannot say we picked up a tenth but it does seem to run better. When it idles you see vapor coming out of the breather on top of the can. But as soon as you rev it up a little it stops. Just wanted to let you guys know how good it actually works. I know I was very impressed. After a freshen we went back to Race fuel. Still no oil and only have to drain it every other run now.


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