u8dusst

My price range for a first gen is about 7-8K, since Im hoping to get 10K for my car, but I have to buy a beater while im building the beast.

What im hoping for is to get one with a straight body (preferably no bondo), and for the most part, rust free. Am I asking too much for only 8K? I really dont care about getting an SS or anything like that. But what key things should I look for when buying one?

cook_dw

iTrader: (16)

8K is not out of the question as far as purchasing a 1st gen with the rust-free thing. I would not be suprised if the car doesnt have a motor or tranny unless it is a 6cyl. But, there are always good deals out there you just have to pay attention when buying anything. I know this probably isnt much help but I thought I would give it a try..

1gen

iTrader: (1)

look for matching numbers, look for rust, look for body filler, try and see if the frame is messed up, when you're buying a 1st gen it doesnt really matter other than that because it should be a ground up rebuild

myZ

I've been told when looking for a first and second gen F-body, the key thing to look for (beyond the obvious stuff) is for rusting out in the spring mount areas. So just go to the back of the car and take a look! It can be fixed, like anything (you can pretty much by a first gen in a parts catalog, things like floorboards/trunk floor, spring mounts, etc.) but it will require a lot of work/money and a competent welder. So beyond “standard” used car buying (things you and other people mentioned), I’d say just make sure structurally those spring mounts are sound so you don’t twist the axle out when you get a motor in there, or the axle doesn’t fall out on the way home! I believe that’s the only thing that can really hang you up in a resto, as it is difficult to perform. I hope I didn’t scare you away from you purchase, just something to look for! ( I live in Minnesota “the rust belt”) Now go out a buy one!

u8dusst

Thanx for the replies guys!

I never really understood the matching numbers thing. What exactly does that mean and how important is it?

AMan

You might be able to find one rust/bondo free for 8k. I bought mine for 8500, it had a little bit of bondo/rust on the driver rear fender, but nothing I wasn't comfortable dealing with. Along with the spring mounts as myZ said, it's been my findings that the bottom two corners of the rear glass channel are fairly susceptible (sp?) to rust. A lot of the first gens I've found seemed to have rust somewhere in that area. Maybe it's just coincidence though?

good luck with your purchase. my best advice i can give is advice that my father gave me a few years ago - if youre even the littlest bit unsure about a car, you need to really think about wether this is the right car or not. every car you buy should be a love affair at first sight.

maybe that's a bit cheezy lol

68maro

check out www.racingjunk.com you should be able to find a decent one t/k for 8k

68maro

here's one http://www.racingjunk.com/vc/224499/classifiedad.html or http://www.racingjunk.com/vc/223857/classifiedad.html a little rougher but cheap.

68maro

don't really know what you're looking for but here's a good deal if you ditch the hood
http://www.racingjunk.com/vc/219950/classifiedad.html

68maro

here's a numbers matching car in good shape with a smallblock in your price range
http://www.racingjunk.com/vc/225332/classifiedad.html

HotRod68Camaro

iTrader: (29)

it depends on what you are looking for. are you looking for somethin w/o and engine and tranny? or somethin already running? i had rust around the rear spring bolt locations and they are a pain in the *** to fix b/c there isnt a company the really makes whole new rear frame rails. and i wouldnt get a #s matching car if you plan on moding it. its worth too much

chief455

iTrader: (21)

I mean no disrespect by my reply but if you have to ask that question you might not want to get into buying an older muscle car yet.
Check out local cruises, ads in the paper and get a feel for what's for sale near you. Like someone already said, it should be a loveat first sight thing because not many guys buy these to make money. It's a love thing.
Matching numbers means the motor/trans/rear and options match the VIN and the way the car was originally built at the factory. How important that is varies widely. If a 6 cylinder/powerglide/2.73 no option 68 Camaro has all it' number matching not many people will care or pay more than if it was a 6 cylinder car that now has a 502 crate motor, turbo400 and a 12 bolt.
Then the opposite - a 67 originally RS/SS with a 396/4spd/12 bolt from the factory but has a 350 motor/turbo350/10 bolt posi is worth far, far less than if the numbers still matched.
Your prolem as a novice buyer will be knowing what it should have vs what it does have regarding motor, options etc. Lot's of cloning out there with dishonest people.
Hope this helps.