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Some work done and first time driving car hard done. Doing an autocross tomorrow, so I can get used to the car and see where it needs tuning.
I changed my Oil Pressure scaling so I can have a better idea of my pressure from the cluster alone. I had tried the stock sensor as I read the cluster was just tapped directly to it and that is not the case. The Holley sensor give about the same reading as the stock one as direct feed and I can't use below 40 psi that way either. I have had the Holley set to us 40 as 0. Now the 60 slash is my 40 and hot idle point and 80 is 80. I did this change while filling up the car and now the CHECK GAGES light stays on always. That it was from the full tank giving me over the F, but it's at 1/2 tank now and still on. Only difference is my oil reads a little lower, but always above 40 so I wouldn't think that be the issue. Everything else works like before and is good, so WTF? I guess I'll load my old tune to make sure, but will be amazed if that does it.
I changed my power steering hoses over to AN and switched to synthetic fluid. I went lock to lock with the tires in the air to clear the old fluid and again to purge the air. Now I have a spot going left I think, where it vibrates the seal I'm guessing as I turn. The noise is annoying, but it also makes the car sound as bad as it looks. My guess is the seal is messed up and I can change my not old rack for more money or not and deal with it. Maybe I'll get lucky and it will go away. I guess the next one (would be the 3rd replacement) will have to be from somewhere like Turn One so if it goes early I have someone to call out on it. Frustrating.
Updates:
I did an autocross with the Corvette club. Finally got a chance to drive the car and learn it. The economy street tires I got are incredible for the money and are going to last a long time, but behind on total grip as one would expect.
Sealed my fans, radiator, condenser and got ride of the cut duct to make the air go to and through the heat exchangers. Also, drew up my catch can that I'm going to start making here soon.
Had another autocross today. Got a better feel for the car and some more info on what I need to do. Anyone got a good idea how much more camber will make this tire so it heats evenly?
I also have my next parts to install as soon as I get time. These are the Strano ones and I found the directions for the ones the guy use to make where there are bolt holes for a brake shield to hold a cooling duct. I'm going to look at how I can add one with these adapters.
For the tire temps, I generally used a probe instead of a infrared sensor. I'd have to look at my tire logs, but I think adding 1PSI added 3* to the center of the contact patch when hot. If you can't get it even across the patch, aim for the temperature slope to be constant from inner to outer. Realize that the last segment of the course before pulling in to park will skew the temp reading. For example, if the last segment was a wide left hand u-turn, it would skew the temps on the outer right side of the tires to be hotter. Also, you have to take temps literally ASAP after getting off the course/track. Document temps first, then pressures.
What did you use to seal your heat exchangers, speed tape?
The pressures are pretty close and I didn't have a pump, so I'll start higher next time so I can just drop them there. Be hard to get much closer without getting the alignment dialed in a little bit more. After looking at this and the right tire more, I'm thinking I need to see how much more caster I can get and then base my camber on how much I get there. The right side was warmer on the inside. I don't know if the caster was at max, but it was close to 5 and camber was just over 1, I think since it's been a while. I held off on the upper arms, so I guess I'll see how much I can get this dialed in before getting the UMI upper mount and adjustable arms. I think the upper mounts have adjustment that also allow the pivot to be changed on the arm and that can be used to have more camber change with suspension movement.
The course had a loop we ran twice putting a lot of load on the left. This was after 4 runs where after looping back to the start at parking lot speeds, I'd be the next car giving about 60 seconds down with short 42 second runs. Here is the front right.
The seal is actually just 3M stick on foam rubber used for tailgate sealing. I'm not 100% sure it will hold up, so I was keeping an eye on it. I only got up to 190 once at the beginning because I was waiting a while with the A/C running. I made a map just for this where the fans booth come on at 180 and stay on until 170, also both always run with the A/C. Plus, a little more fuel for now. I already don't have enough tire, so I wasn't worried about adding timing. I'll wait for the dyno to dial the power fully in and hopefully I won't be racing on my economy tires at that point.
Got real lucky. I was pulling the car out of the garage and took if for a ride to the end of my road and back since I was in it. Got back to the house and hear some noise when I shut it off. Popped the hood and coolant spraying everywhere. Turns out my burp tank cracked at a weld and if it would have happened on a trip I'd be screwed. Got my friend to weld it up on Monday, so I could drop it off on Tuesday to get the rear end fixed or so I thought.
He said my setup wasn't bad and the new gears make the same noise. I almost purchased a different brand of gear this time, but I guess US Gear isn't the best option out there and I have a slightly used 3.73 gear set for sale. At least I know that it's safe to drive. When I let off of it and coasted at 120 it felt like the rear was going to lock up on me. Still probably feels the same (haven't tried 120 yet), but it's okay.
I also got my tank fixed. Turns out he used a thinner aluminum than normal to build part of it. He has no clue why, since I didn't ask for it to be lite weight. I'm also going to have him build a small backup tank to carry on long trips just in case.
Now, I'm going to driving some easy miles and probably work on getting an alignment with more camber. Maybe throw it on some scales first.
Oh, so my rear hatch sat a little far back. I first tried to adjust it with the nuts on the hatch, but that doesn't work. Yesterday I tried to adjust it with the nuts under the headliner, but that doesn't work. What is the best way to get this done?
Does anyone make an upgrade to the stock radiator fans? Not quite summer here and I'm not sure that I can sit in grid lock traffic with the A/C on. I know there are some slim replacements to help with turbo, but I think those loose a couple hundred cfm from stock fans.
Also, got some free tires MT 275/60R15 and now I need tires. These will provide the traction I don't have now and I already have 250 miles on the new gears so they will be ready before I get wheels.
Any venders on here give a deal on the 15 x 10s that clear stock brakes? Waiting on Bogart to give me an idea of what styling I can choose from, but at $620 they have to be awesome to choose over the Billet Specialties since they are only $420.
Also, wondering if I can put better insulation and drop some weight at the same time. Was thinking a spray in like the lizard skin would work better and be lighter, plus getting full coverage without gaps has to work better than stock. That would have to wait for the cage, so for now I need to get those old window tint replaced.
Got some wheels yesterday and I think the 26" tires will work better while I"m N/A and then the 28" tires for nitrous later if I can still run with no cage.
02-16-2019, 01:19 PM
