Neverleavingmt

First time post here, i think this is the best place to post these questions. Ive spent hours lurking in the past and I finally have something to ask!

My car is bone stock with 60k on the clock. I'm looking for 400 rwhp that starts, runs, and drives as friendly as stock or close to it. Until you get on it of course .

Here is the list I have tentatively come up with. Please critique or give suggestions.

Factory stall
Factory 3.42
Slp lid
Ls6 or fast 90 intake. Help me decide if I really need the fast
Factory 241s, may have ported down the road
Need help deciding a cam. I want a baby eps or Tsp 220. Something along those lines that will work best with the rest of the config.
Longtubes with cutout (for when I want loud), ory, and I have not decided on a muffler yet.
Air and egr will be deleted when headers are put on. Also, would I be better off getting a cam tailored to factory manifolds and be just as good off?
Will be tuned with hp tuners.

How close can I get to my hp goal and still have a dependable summer time car. I like the idea of eps cam due to being easy on the valvetrain. This is a semi budget build. I'm just looking for components that will compliment each other

Thanks in advance!

JD_AMG

First and foremost you will want an aftermarket stall and trans cooler. Ultimately the goal is for quicker acceleration right? The first mod most auto guys do is a stall and it makes a huge difference. It would also be a waste to mod the engine and stick with a stock stall as you won't get near the potential out of the setup.
Next, you won't get 400rwhp with a baby cam and factory 241 heads through an auto, you will either need a bigger cam or spend money on some really nice heads. Also don't forget to budget in springs, pushrods and lifters and probably the trunion upgrade for the rockers.

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

A stall is a must in a A4

98CayenneT/A

Stock manifolds HAVE got to go.
You have a certain quarter mile time in mind or just a power goal?

Neverleavingmt

What is a conservative stall I could go with? 3400 or 3600 just sound too steep.
I've never driven with a higher stall converter. On let's say a 3400, do you get rolling at all before that? I just imagine trying to leave a stop light on a normal day.

Neverleavingmt

More of a power goal. I don't hit up any tracks. Just a summer time DD that I'd like to get a little more out of with out going radical and losing driveability. Especially on the days the wife happens to take the car.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

If you want a good honest 400rwhp just plan on doing heads cam, boltons and yes a stall. My setup with the newer 4000 stall only dynoed 390 unlocked converter.

98CayenneT/A

I have a 3600 and the car will move under its own power at idle and no brake. If I were to let you drive my car you probably would not even know I have a aftermarket converter until wot.
If ya ask me a good place to start would be exhaust, converter and tires and drive it for a bit. That would seriously wake the car up. That's my setup at this point and I run 12.3

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Stalls are easy to drive. We were all like you at one time. The absolute lowest go 3200. I would say do a yank ss3600. From my experience that converter is just a great street strip stall. It actually out performed the slug I have now

98CayenneT/A

Yes, I love my ss3600. What brand and series 4000 converter did you go with?

Neverleavingmt

These cars will do that with just those mods^^? Dang.

Well I'm here to learn, I'm gonna start getting educated on stalls.

What can you guys tell me about intake flow with my heads and the two different intakes I mentioned? Will I ever see the advantage of the Fast? I know people say it paves the way for the bigger mods but don't see myself taking this car that far.

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

I will leave this here for op.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...k-results.html

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

What do you consider bigger mods? You're already talking about cams. My car is all N/A and totally done. Fast 92, stage 2 243s, 228 cam, all boltons, stall, gears....I think a lot of us talk about only going so far with our cars. Now I'm looking at more weight reduction, another motor, rear ect.

Do a stall. My cars best with just boltons was 12.6 and dropped to 11.9 with a ss3600 and a little weight reduction with good da.
Next was fast, heads, cam, 3.73, and upgraded some boltons. It literally added 100+hp. Many said it wouldn't drop a full second in the 1/4 but the cars best was a 10.9

Trust me, your car is never done LOL

Neverleavingmt

Thanks for all the help and direction from everyone. By bigger mods I was talking about turbos or super chargers. It's nice to read about guys having similar setups and what they think and the #s they produce. I am trying to be careful and think the whole thing through so I don't have to do anything twice. But oh man, there is a lot to consider!

It sounds like exhaust and a stall should be at the top of the list. And now since I'm thinking a stall, my cam choices will most likely change. Vicious cycle haha! I guess none of this is news to any of you guys, I'm just trying to figure out how to get into the game.

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

I would mod as follows if I had it to do over for a good DD

A reputable stall 3600 range/ Good transmission cooler

Proven Lid

Fast 92/92 setup

Speed Engineering headers / choose catback with your sound preference, Mild through wild is offered

Proven tune

The's mods mentioned will totally change the car for the better far as being fast fun reliable imo

Then I would drive it like this until I nailed down exactly which Head cam setup I wanted.

Neverleavingmt

Yeah I'm realizing that I had my cam too high up on my list. Thanks for the suggestions. Very helpful

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

The TR220 is a good proven choice imo