jcam1486

Holy moly this is an awesome thread!!! So much info and such a beautiful SS. This is the exact color I want to repaint mine to.....I love this car and color! Well done.

LaBLKv6Z

iTrader: (13)

Nice, hope you got it dialed in man.

LaBLKv6Z

iTrader: (13)

Thanks bro, I love the color on the Fbody. More to come to this build!

LaBLKv6Z

iTrader: (13)

Just an update since I can’t upload images from my phone.

A couple of weeks ago I finally got to test out the new trans/shifter/clutch setup.

The trans shifted so smooth, it was nice being able to roll through the gears and put the power down.

Got to run a buddy’s 16’ A8 Cam/bolt on/E85 SS. We ran before when my car was HCI ls1, his was just full bolt on. It was damn near even from a roll.

Now I pull 1-1/2 to 2 cars on him. Anyways, the night we ran, last race I shifted WOT into 5th then couldn’t get into 6th.

Ended up being stuck in 5th and was able to put it in neutral.

Limped home with just 5th gear lol. Dropped the trans and opened it up to find nothing out of the norm as far as chunks of metal.

Decided to bring it to a local hot rod shop that specializes in transmissions. They called back and said the previous builder did not completely snap on multiple snap rings so multiple gears came loose. Long story short, I’m having this T56 built.

Also ordered some 80lb injectors since my 42lb injectors are at 94% duty now. Also ordered another cam with more duration. This one is going to be from Texas Speed.

Ordered another set of wheels and tires too.

LaBLKv6Z

iTrader: (13)

Got the transmission installed late Friday night. Torque arm, drive shaft safety loop, then tried to slip the driveshaft in.... does not fit. Goes in 1" then stops. Called the shop that rebuilt it and asked for their advice. Shop owner calls back and suggests I lightly tap on the yoke. So I figure this was bad advice but decided to give it a little tap, drive shaft now is jammed and does not spin at all.

Sunday, I dropped the transmission again, removed the tail housing and honed the bushing out just enough to clear the yoke. Got everything back together last night around 10. Just need to bleed the slave cylinder and should be back on the road.

AINT SKEERED

iTrader: (2)

You having luck like me it seems. How much different on the cam specs?

LaBLKv6Z

iTrader: (13)

A little more duration and lift. The cam that's in it is 239/252 111 LSA, 620/.596, this was spec'd for the 383 that I bought a while back. The cam that I'm installing is 248/260 111 LSA, 621/.619

AINT SKEERED

iTrader: (2)

Should make a good bit more power.

LaBLKv6Z

iTrader: (13)

Yeah I'm not looking for much of a gain until I swap for bigger heads. Not sure if I'll go through the trouble of doing the cam swap until I get the heads now since I have link bar lifters.

AINT SKEERED

iTrader: (2)

If you intend on heads, I'd wait.much easier and less tuning to do over

LaBLKv6Z

iTrader: (13)

Yeah I agree. I'm fine with the tuning but I do plan to drop the engine when I do the heads so I'll probably wait.

Got to bleed the slave cylinder last night and go for a drive. The RXT is so light it's unbelievable. Trans shifts smooth once again and the SD tune feels good. Even drove it to work today lol.

AINT SKEERED

iTrader: (2)

Thata awsome. My transmission builder decided we will go with a non lock up 4l80 and he will even come down o help install to verify im not screwing up. I am good with this

LaBLKv6Z

iTrader: (13)

Cool deal man, that's badass that your trans builder is willing to help with the install.

AINT SKEERED

iTrader: (2)

We found the converter to be the problem. I asked for an ls converter but the pilot doesn't extend far enough in to the crank. I wasnt told to use the adapter and I didn't catch it as I have only wrenched on ls cars for the last 19 years.
Transmission guy still talking care of it even though it isnt his fault.
We gonna show him a good time in nola while he is here. Lol

LaBLKv6Z

iTrader: (13)

So this last week I’ve installed the AC system back into the car. Had to replace the fairly new condenser because I cracked one of the welds by over tightening a bolt.

AC blows ice cold but developed an issue with the electrical system.

Fully warmed up while idling at a red light the voltage drops to the point of stalling the engine.

Replaced the 5 yr old battery with a Red top optima. Had the 145amp truck alternator tested(tested good), and swapped the power bond UDP with an OE pulley, raised idle with AC on 100 rpms.

Still kills at least once while just idling in traffic. Starts right up after.

I’m looking into a Power bastards 220 amp alternator. Going to check my grounds and cables. But this issue started after installing the ac system.

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

What does the voltage drop to?

If if you don’t have the correct injector data, when the voltage drops and that injection correction comes into play, could lean it or Richey it up to cause a stall. Just an idea. But look at what your voltage drops to.

You could upgrade your charge wire and grounds to 4 gauge. I picked up a few tenths of a volt just doing the grounds. My positive on my car is already large so I didn’t bother swapping it.

LaBLKv6Z

iTrader: (13)

I'll have to data log it some time this week to see what it drops to before it stalls out. I still didn't do the big three upgrade on this car yet. Now is a good time to do it lol.

AINT SKEERED

iTrader: (2)

If you do correct the voltage tables for injectors, it will fix a lot of the issues you are having.

Also the mod mentioned above seems legit, 4 gauge wires. I am going to look in to this my self

LaBLKv6Z

iTrader: (13)

I have not touched the voltage tables for the injectors because I didn't change them. Still running the Fast 36's that's been running fine up until I installed my AC system. I'll look into the data but not sure about adjusting it since Pat G inputed that for me.

LaBLKv6Z

iTrader: (13)

It does make sense though guys. I will look into doing some data logging and possible adjustments to the voltage tables. Thanks guys.