LSx powered late model Nissan 300-ZX, aka Z-32
02-14-2009, 02:27 PM
#1
LSx powered late model Nissan 300-ZX, aka Z-32 LSx Z-32 fever has set in. A few others on the www.hybridZ.org forum are also in the midst of doing such a conversion. I’m sure we’ll be watching each other for ideas and tips as we trudge through the process.
This thread is to be the think tank for this conversion, a spin off from this thread which answered the question of which power-plant will motivate;
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=142025
For the most part, these first few posts will be cut and pastes from that thread.
This thread is the formal build;
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143967
For the mock up phase I have been using a Z-32 parts car dubbed the Mock Up Mule. Also been using a 2000 Vette LS1 short block and a complete 5.3 LM7. The 5.3 will be the “short term” power plant, long term goal is to build the single plane V-8 we have been discussing here, though using the LSx as the foundation;
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=139545
Here are some shots of the car receiving the LSx;
This thread is to be the think tank for this conversion, a spin off from this thread which answered the question of which power-plant will motivate;
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=142025
For the most part, these first few posts will be cut and pastes from that thread.
This thread is the formal build;
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143967
For the mock up phase I have been using a Z-32 parts car dubbed the Mock Up Mule. Also been using a 2000 Vette LS1 short block and a complete 5.3 LM7. The 5.3 will be the “short term” power plant, long term goal is to build the single plane V-8 we have been discussing here, though using the LSx as the foundation;
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=139545
Here are some shots of the car receiving the LSx;
02-14-2009, 02:28 PM
#2
In this post I'll cover the initial “best fit” scenario to see how well the LSx and T-56 fit with the shortest possible oil pan over the rack with no mods to the car itself. Oil pan was removed, T-56 bolted up!
Short version is, the LSx will NOT fit in an unmolested Z-32 engine bay. Even with the most extensively modified shortened oil pan, some form of modification will HAVE to be done to the car, whether it be cutting the firewall/trans tunnel entrance, relocate the rack and pinion, and or modify the hood to clear the throttle body.
Long version.
Took the ’01 Vette LS1 short block, removed the oil pan and bolted on a pair of wooden strips to the pan rail to simulate the absolute shortest oil pan, (included the distance that should be between the pan and the rack). The OE LSx Windage tray is very close to the rotating crankshaft. The lowest point of that windage tray is 1.25” below the pan rail. I figure the oil pan should be no closer than ¼” to the windage tray. With the cast oil pan being approx 1/8” - 3/16” thick, add a 1/2” oil pan to rack clearance, (between 2 1/8”-2 3/16”), I cut a couple of boards at 2.25” and bolted them to the pan rail so that the engine could sit on the rack simulating the lowest possible engine position as if it were bolted in the car. This puts the crank windage tray 5/8"-3/4" inch above the rack, allowing approx 1/2" oil pan-to-rack clearance with an oil pan modded as short as possible in the region of the rack.
Then I bolted up the T-56 trans and stabbed the engine/trans in the mock up mule.
In an attempt to replicate the OE crankshaft position, engine tilt, etc I measured my Z-32 DD. Crankshaft centerline is approx 6.125” above the top of the stock sway bar, engine tilt as measured across the face of the crank damper, is 1.5-2 degrees tilted rear down in relation to the top of the frame rails. I realize those figures do not have to be replicated exactly, but it does offer some point of reference.
With the engine sitting in this low as possible position, engine as far back as it will sit with 2.5 degree engine tilt, crankshaft centerline is approx 3/8” higher than OE. Trans is wedged up tight against the top of the tunnel, (bellhousing to trans mating surface is what contacts the top of the tunnel). With the hood closed, the forward portion of the padding on the underside of the hood is between 0" and 1/8” clearance to the throttle body! Bellhousing mating surface is +/- 1” or so fore and aft of where the VG30DE trans-engine mating surface resides.
In summation, trans is wedged tight to the top of the trans tunnel, engine/trans is as far back as it will physically sit and the throttle body is in contact with the padding under the hood! Moving the engine forward offers no relief to the throttle body hood issue and only exaggerates the very short distance left between the throttle body and the radiator core support to get a 90 degree air inlet elbow, even with the Radiator mounted in front of the core support.
All in all, the LSx Z-32 will require some modification to the car itself. I still have quite a bit of head scratching to do, all kinds of ideas running through my mind, goal is still to get the LSx in the Z-32 without having to cut the firewall. Ideally I want to come up with a solution that can be duplicated as easily as possible by others without having to gut the interior to hack up the firewall compromising climate control and/or other factory Z-32 systems! Couple ideas revolve around altering the rack location, the trick will be doing so without adversely affecting the steering geometry. Dropping the rack down approx 1” will be a huge help. Just opening up the trans tunnel entrance at the firewall allowing the engine to move back approx 2-3” and dropping the rack approx 7.5-1” would alleviate essentially all physical installation conflicts, but again, want to avoid cutting the firewall.
Here are some pics;
Frontal shot;
Shot of the bellhousing;
Lack of hood clearance. Hood is NOT in the first latch!
Windage tray to rack clearance. Rack is outlined in Green, windage tray is outlined in Magenta.
Short version is, the LSx will NOT fit in an unmolested Z-32 engine bay. Even with the most extensively modified shortened oil pan, some form of modification will HAVE to be done to the car, whether it be cutting the firewall/trans tunnel entrance, relocate the rack and pinion, and or modify the hood to clear the throttle body.
Long version.
Took the ’01 Vette LS1 short block, removed the oil pan and bolted on a pair of wooden strips to the pan rail to simulate the absolute shortest oil pan, (included the distance that should be between the pan and the rack). The OE LSx Windage tray is very close to the rotating crankshaft. The lowest point of that windage tray is 1.25” below the pan rail. I figure the oil pan should be no closer than ¼” to the windage tray. With the cast oil pan being approx 1/8” - 3/16” thick, add a 1/2” oil pan to rack clearance, (between 2 1/8”-2 3/16”), I cut a couple of boards at 2.25” and bolted them to the pan rail so that the engine could sit on the rack simulating the lowest possible engine position as if it were bolted in the car. This puts the crank windage tray 5/8"-3/4" inch above the rack, allowing approx 1/2" oil pan-to-rack clearance with an oil pan modded as short as possible in the region of the rack.
Then I bolted up the T-56 trans and stabbed the engine/trans in the mock up mule.
In an attempt to replicate the OE crankshaft position, engine tilt, etc I measured my Z-32 DD. Crankshaft centerline is approx 6.125” above the top of the stock sway bar, engine tilt as measured across the face of the crank damper, is 1.5-2 degrees tilted rear down in relation to the top of the frame rails. I realize those figures do not have to be replicated exactly, but it does offer some point of reference.
With the engine sitting in this low as possible position, engine as far back as it will sit with 2.5 degree engine tilt, crankshaft centerline is approx 3/8” higher than OE. Trans is wedged up tight against the top of the tunnel, (bellhousing to trans mating surface is what contacts the top of the tunnel). With the hood closed, the forward portion of the padding on the underside of the hood is between 0" and 1/8” clearance to the throttle body! Bellhousing mating surface is +/- 1” or so fore and aft of where the VG30DE trans-engine mating surface resides.
In summation, trans is wedged tight to the top of the trans tunnel, engine/trans is as far back as it will physically sit and the throttle body is in contact with the padding under the hood! Moving the engine forward offers no relief to the throttle body hood issue and only exaggerates the very short distance left between the throttle body and the radiator core support to get a 90 degree air inlet elbow, even with the Radiator mounted in front of the core support.
All in all, the LSx Z-32 will require some modification to the car itself. I still have quite a bit of head scratching to do, all kinds of ideas running through my mind, goal is still to get the LSx in the Z-32 without having to cut the firewall. Ideally I want to come up with a solution that can be duplicated as easily as possible by others without having to gut the interior to hack up the firewall compromising climate control and/or other factory Z-32 systems! Couple ideas revolve around altering the rack location, the trick will be doing so without adversely affecting the steering geometry. Dropping the rack down approx 1” will be a huge help. Just opening up the trans tunnel entrance at the firewall allowing the engine to move back approx 2-3” and dropping the rack approx 7.5-1” would alleviate essentially all physical installation conflicts, but again, want to avoid cutting the firewall.
Here are some pics;
Frontal shot;
Shot of the bellhousing;
Lack of hood clearance. Hood is NOT in the first latch!
Windage tray to rack clearance. Rack is outlined in Green, windage tray is outlined in Magenta.
02-14-2009, 02:30 PM
#3
Did some more Head scratching and fine tuning of the mock up.
Unlike the S-30 where there is practically 2 and half acres of open space to just ***** nilly drop an engine into without fear of clearance issues, the Z-32 is a confined space with very limited options!
So I spent some time playing with different fore-aft positions with the LS1 and T-56 and feel pretty comfortable with my final engine resting place.
"Points of interest" that need addressing; (calling those issues "obstacles" just sounds so negative…)
1) Rack and pinion. Lower the rack ½”-1”. Will be looking into the least compromising way to accomplish this.
a) Dropping the entire x-member with a spacer between the X-member and frame rail is the easiest, so long as it doesn’t compromise suspension geometry to much.
b) Lower rack in the cross member, only if that doesn’t induce too much bump steer, which I have a feeling it will if I don’t also drop the inboard LCA pickup points. Might have to contact Tube80Z with the plotted out Z-32 front suspension for his opinion of the stock geometry and what the feels are options in terms of getting the rack 1/2"-1" lower without compromising to much.
2) Trans tunnel entrance/Firewall. Lightly modify the trans tunnel entrance at the firewall to clear the top crest of the bell-housing using a 1-2 lbs mass at high velocity, may take several applications, (i.e. the BFH!) Also grind down the rib of the bell-housing if one exist on the T-56 I will be using.
3) Trans tunnel. Lightly modify the trans tunnel with a BFH at the body seam where it goes from the slope from the firewall to the horizontal plane, to clear the bell-housing to trans bolt-pad on the top of the trans, circled in Blue.
There is approx ½” clearance between the trans tunnel and the bottom of the cars climate control duct work at this location. Pic below, Green is duct work, Magenta is trans tunnel, Red is seam that needs BFH modification from under the car.
4) TB-hood clearance. “Might” have to notch the stiffener in the hood to gain clearance for the Throttle body.
5) Heater lines. They exit the car through the firewall right at the passenger cylinder head which will require some creative plumbing to make that work without having to open up the dash and relocate the firewall penetrations for the heater supply and return plumbing. I figure this project is one of those “points of interest” that can be dealt with later and shouldn’t dictate the engines placement as much as the other interference “points of interest” do.
6) Oil Pan. Looks like the uber nice AUTOKRAFT oil pan will essentially be a bolt in. The sump is exactly 9” from the rear to the front of the sump, clearing the rack by approx 1" fore and aft. Will have to notch the pan to clear the top of the rack. Might talk to the nice gents at AUTOKRAFT and see if they will do that in-house, (dedicated Z-32 LSx oil pan?!?!?) The rack mount tabs look like they can easily be modified to clear the pan kickouts.
Courtesy of; www.autokraft.org/products
7) Trans. In this position, the GTO T-56 with its shifter location puts the shifter EXACTLY 3/8” forward of the stock Z-32 location :2thumbs: To use the GTO T-56 you “might” have to remove some material from the top of the trans tunnel to clear the plastic housing for this shifter, but I am pretty sure there is enough room under the Z-32 console for such. I still may use the Caddy CTS-V T-56 as its shifter design and operation is the same as the OE Z-32, would just require adapting the stock shifter to the T-56 shift arm.
GTO shifter extends shift lever 3 3/8” rearward from the F-bod T-56. A HUGE thank you goes out to m1noel for this GTO shifter.
Area of the trans tunnel that “might” need to be modified/cut to clear the GTO shifter apparatus.
Here is the TB to core support distance;
For those interested in a possible front sump pan with the engine trans in this position, here is the measurement from the forward most portion of the rack to the front cover/block mating surface. The cross member is in-front of the rack so it will need to be extensively modified for any sort of front sump oil pan;
Unlike the S-30 where there is practically 2 and half acres of open space to just ***** nilly drop an engine into without fear of clearance issues, the Z-32 is a confined space with very limited options!
So I spent some time playing with different fore-aft positions with the LS1 and T-56 and feel pretty comfortable with my final engine resting place.
"Points of interest" that need addressing; (calling those issues "obstacles" just sounds so negative…)
1) Rack and pinion. Lower the rack ½”-1”. Will be looking into the least compromising way to accomplish this.
a) Dropping the entire x-member with a spacer between the X-member and frame rail is the easiest, so long as it doesn’t compromise suspension geometry to much.
b) Lower rack in the cross member, only if that doesn’t induce too much bump steer, which I have a feeling it will if I don’t also drop the inboard LCA pickup points. Might have to contact Tube80Z with the plotted out Z-32 front suspension for his opinion of the stock geometry and what the feels are options in terms of getting the rack 1/2"-1" lower without compromising to much.
2) Trans tunnel entrance/Firewall. Lightly modify the trans tunnel entrance at the firewall to clear the top crest of the bell-housing using a 1-2 lbs mass at high velocity, may take several applications, (i.e. the BFH!) Also grind down the rib of the bell-housing if one exist on the T-56 I will be using.
3) Trans tunnel. Lightly modify the trans tunnel with a BFH at the body seam where it goes from the slope from the firewall to the horizontal plane, to clear the bell-housing to trans bolt-pad on the top of the trans, circled in Blue.
There is approx ½” clearance between the trans tunnel and the bottom of the cars climate control duct work at this location. Pic below, Green is duct work, Magenta is trans tunnel, Red is seam that needs BFH modification from under the car.
4) TB-hood clearance. “Might” have to notch the stiffener in the hood to gain clearance for the Throttle body.
5) Heater lines. They exit the car through the firewall right at the passenger cylinder head which will require some creative plumbing to make that work without having to open up the dash and relocate the firewall penetrations for the heater supply and return plumbing. I figure this project is one of those “points of interest” that can be dealt with later and shouldn’t dictate the engines placement as much as the other interference “points of interest” do.
6) Oil Pan. Looks like the uber nice AUTOKRAFT oil pan will essentially be a bolt in. The sump is exactly 9” from the rear to the front of the sump, clearing the rack by approx 1" fore and aft. Will have to notch the pan to clear the top of the rack. Might talk to the nice gents at AUTOKRAFT and see if they will do that in-house, (dedicated Z-32 LSx oil pan?!?!?) The rack mount tabs look like they can easily be modified to clear the pan kickouts.
Courtesy of; www.autokraft.org/products
7) Trans. In this position, the GTO T-56 with its shifter location puts the shifter EXACTLY 3/8” forward of the stock Z-32 location :2thumbs: To use the GTO T-56 you “might” have to remove some material from the top of the trans tunnel to clear the plastic housing for this shifter, but I am pretty sure there is enough room under the Z-32 console for such. I still may use the Caddy CTS-V T-56 as its shifter design and operation is the same as the OE Z-32, would just require adapting the stock shifter to the T-56 shift arm.
GTO shifter extends shift lever 3 3/8” rearward from the F-bod T-56. A HUGE thank you goes out to m1noel for this GTO shifter.
Area of the trans tunnel that “might” need to be modified/cut to clear the GTO shifter apparatus.
Here is the TB to core support distance;
For those interested in a possible front sump pan with the engine trans in this position, here is the measurement from the forward most portion of the rack to the front cover/block mating surface. The cross member is in-front of the rack so it will need to be extensively modified for any sort of front sump oil pan;
02-14-2009, 02:31 PM
#4
Another mock up test...
Dropped the cross member ¾” simulating an engine drop of ¾” lower than the previous mock up! WOOHOO!!! Now we have hood clearance! Now to find a way to get the rack exactly 1” lower in the car without negatively affecting the front suspension geometry too much. Regardless, this is 100% GO! Started the official build thread here;
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143967
Here are some pics of today’s mock up.
The motor mounts and X-member mount hole alignment;
Intake-Firewall clearance;
Heater outlets into passenger cylinder head;
TB-hood clearance;
Trans mount alignment;
Underside of engine with pan removed;
Dropped the cross member ¾” simulating an engine drop of ¾” lower than the previous mock up! WOOHOO!!! Now we have hood clearance! Now to find a way to get the rack exactly 1” lower in the car without negatively affecting the front suspension geometry too much. Regardless, this is 100% GO! Started the official build thread here;
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143967
Here are some pics of today’s mock up.
The motor mounts and X-member mount hole alignment;
Intake-Firewall clearance;
Heater outlets into passenger cylinder head;
TB-hood clearance;
Trans mount alignment;
Underside of engine with pan removed;
02-14-2009, 02:37 PM
#5
Sold the VH45DE from my Infiniti Q-45, took it down to be crated and shipped couple days ago. Also sold the T-56 for Gen I-II SBC.
Purchased a Gen III-IV T-56 w/hydraulics, flywheel and LS6 clutch!
Purchased a set of new crate motor take-out LS6 yellow valve springs, lifters, pushrods.
Next on the agenda;
1) Nail down the exact approach to getting the rack & pinion lowered 1”.
2) Nail down the final plan for the oil pan, (the AutoKraft pan is looking REAL good right now!)
3) Once the trans arrives, build the engine and trans mounts.
4) Clean up the LM7, paint block, remove the heads, tear down the heads and wave the Rusch Motorsports magic wand over them, reassemble and install back on the LM7.
5) Acquire a complete GTO shifter with base, boots, etc.
6) Acquire a new cam, preferably the 2000 “Y” body, (Vette) stock cam GM Pt# 12560968, (0968 3 22 0058).
7) Acquire a starter to fit the LM7, F-bod T-56 with LS6 clutch/flywheel package.
8) Sell the Supercharged SBC 350 project, the VG30DE and 5 speed from the Z-32 and few other trinket items in the shop, then its time to graduate from the mock up mule to the LSx recipient.
Purchased a Gen III-IV T-56 w/hydraulics, flywheel and LS6 clutch!
Purchased a set of new crate motor take-out LS6 yellow valve springs, lifters, pushrods.
Next on the agenda;
1) Nail down the exact approach to getting the rack & pinion lowered 1”.
2) Nail down the final plan for the oil pan, (the AutoKraft pan is looking REAL good right now!)
3) Once the trans arrives, build the engine and trans mounts.
4) Clean up the LM7, paint block, remove the heads, tear down the heads and wave the Rusch Motorsports magic wand over them, reassemble and install back on the LM7.
5) Acquire a complete GTO shifter with base, boots, etc.
6) Acquire a new cam, preferably the 2000 “Y” body, (Vette) stock cam GM Pt# 12560968, (0968 3 22 0058).
7) Acquire a starter to fit the LM7, F-bod T-56 with LS6 clutch/flywheel package.
8) Sell the Supercharged SBC 350 project, the VG30DE and 5 speed from the Z-32 and few other trinket items in the shop, then its time to graduate from the mock up mule to the LSx recipient.
Trending Topics
02-14-2009, 06:14 PM
#8
On The Tree
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Columbia SC
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
a guy here in columbia sc has a ls1 swap in his 300zx. Its pretty dang nice. heres a few pics of his car with the swap. I can pm you a way to get in touch and ask him any questions if you have any or want any tips. He is a nice guy im sure he wouldnt mind.
02-14-2009, 06:18 PM
#9
TECH Regular
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Bothell, WA
Posts: 415
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
02-27-2009, 12:49 PM
#12
Nothing substantial to update right now. Been busy with honey do lists and starting up a few more Rusch Motorsports projects.
Tore the cam out of the LS1 short block. We knew it was an aftermarket cam, turns out it is custom Comp Cams grind and in EXCELLENT, almost new condition. In this 2000 LS1, with heads, LS6 intake and some exhaust, this cam churned out over 370 HP to the wheels! I have no desire to use this cam, so it will sit on the shelf waiting for Ron to build an LSx for his clean 260-Z shell.
Grind 3712R/3714R I/E HR13
Valve lift .562”/.566” I/E
Dur. @ .050” 218/222 I/E
LSA 113 deg.
The T-56 with LS6 clutch, flywheel etc is still enroute from Hawaii, scheduled to arrive on the 10th/11th.
Just received my GM cam swap gasket kit, (water pump, front cover, and front main seal).
Still need to order the head swap kit with gaskets, head bolts etc. (need to remove the heads first to see if I can use the MLS head gaskets…)
Ordered a new starter, should arrive any day.
Haven't found a GTO shifter arrangement. Might just for-go that and dog-leg it. I think I 'll like the shift lever geometry the dog leg will provide.
Bought 2 cams. One is for sure on the way, the other, awaiting tracking number…
The cam on the way is the one I will be running;
2000 Y body, Vette,
GM Pt# 12560968
Valve lift .500”/.500”
Dur. @.050” 198/209 I/E
LSA 115.5 deg
Should be subtle gain in midrange and top end torque without any sacrifice wont to 2k RPM.
The other cam I bought is
2001 LS-6 Corvette Z-06 cam,
Pt # 12560950
Valve lift .525"/.525" I/E
Dur. @ .050” 204/211 I/E
LSA 116 deg
For this interim power plant, if the milder Vette cam isn’t too mild for the 5.3, I’ll swap in the Z-06 cam, otherwise I’ll hang on to it for “interim part duex”, a 6.0L. Should keep me satisfied while building the Pinnacle F550 LSx.
Just started collaboration with a shop to build a batch of custom aluminum oil pans dedicated for the Z-32 LSx conversion!
Tossing around the idea of a front sump, though would require cross member mods. In coming up with dimensions for the custom pan, I overlaid the rack and pinion position to a few oil pans.
MAGENTA circle depicts rack and pinion.
GREEN is material to remove to clear rack.
BLUE is material to be removed for cross-member, (cross-member can be modified for less interference.)
GTO front sump pan;
Caddy CTS-V pan;
F-body pan;
C-5 batwing pan;
Till the next update…
Tore the cam out of the LS1 short block. We knew it was an aftermarket cam, turns out it is custom Comp Cams grind and in EXCELLENT, almost new condition. In this 2000 LS1, with heads, LS6 intake and some exhaust, this cam churned out over 370 HP to the wheels!
I have no desire to use this cam, so it will sit on the shelf waiting for Ron to build an LSx for his clean 260-Z shell. Grind 3712R/3714R I/E HR13
Valve lift .562”/.566” I/E
Dur. @ .050” 218/222 I/E
LSA 113 deg.
The T-56 with LS6 clutch, flywheel etc is still enroute from Hawaii, scheduled to arrive on the 10th/11th.
Just received my GM cam swap gasket kit, (water pump, front cover, and front main seal).
Still need to order the head swap kit with gaskets, head bolts etc. (need to remove the heads first to see if I can use the MLS head gaskets…)
Ordered a new starter, should arrive any day.
Haven't found a GTO shifter arrangement. Might just for-go that and dog-leg it. I think I 'll like the shift lever geometry the dog leg will provide.
Bought 2 cams. One is for sure on the way, the other, awaiting tracking number…
The cam on the way is the one I will be running;
2000 Y body, Vette,
GM Pt# 12560968
Valve lift .500”/.500”
Dur. @.050” 198/209 I/E
LSA 115.5 deg
Should be subtle gain in midrange and top end torque without any sacrifice wont to 2k RPM.
The other cam I bought is
2001 LS-6 Corvette Z-06 cam,
Pt # 12560950
Valve lift .525"/.525" I/E
Dur. @ .050” 204/211 I/E
LSA 116 deg
For this interim power plant, if the milder Vette cam isn’t too mild for the 5.3, I’ll swap in the Z-06 cam, otherwise I’ll hang on to it for “interim part duex”, a 6.0L. Should keep me satisfied while building the Pinnacle F550 LSx.
Just started collaboration with a shop to build a batch of custom aluminum oil pans dedicated for the Z-32 LSx conversion!
Tossing around the idea of a front sump, though would require cross member mods. In coming up with dimensions for the custom pan, I overlaid the rack and pinion position to a few oil pans.
MAGENTA circle depicts rack and pinion.
GREEN is material to remove to clear rack.
BLUE is material to be removed for cross-member, (cross-member can be modified for less interference.)
GTO front sump pan;
Caddy CTS-V pan;
F-body pan;
C-5 batwing pan;
Till the next update…
03-26-2009, 12:30 PM
#13
Update… SCAM alert!
I do want to make public with one point. The Z-06 cam I “thought” was getting listed above, well turns out I was scammed. My bad in just trusting *****-nilly E-mails. I should’ve researched him first, then maybe played him out and met him at the Money-Gram station I designated as the pick up point…
Short version;
Placed a WTB ad here for the '01 Z-06 cam, and this %&$*# that calls himself Ernesto Gonzalez Castillo swindled $94. Blatant out and out scam. In a quick search after I paid, revealed he has been praying in the LS1 tech WTB classified section for some time…
If anyone lives in Southern Texas and is into “debt collecting” if you can get that alleged Z-06 cam from him, I’ll gladly pay you for your time and efforts, or if you get my $94 back, keep the money for your efforts in showing him his error!
Here is the public announcement started back in Nov of 2007 concerning this “load that should’ve been swallowed"!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/negative-...-castillo.html
I typically do not refer to other people in a derogatory manner, even when they make mistakes that cost others, we all mistakes, we area ll human, owning that and making an effort NOT to hurt or scam someone is the way things should be. But this, blatant out and out lies to steal money bold face... well... ARRRGHHH....
I do want to make public with one point. The Z-06 cam I “thought” was getting listed above, well turns out I was scammed. My bad in just trusting *****-nilly E-mails. I should’ve researched him first, then maybe played him out and met him at the Money-Gram station I designated as the pick up point…
Short version;
Placed a WTB ad here for the '01 Z-06 cam, and this %&$*# that calls himself Ernesto Gonzalez Castillo swindled $94. Blatant out and out scam. In a quick search after I paid, revealed he has been praying in the LS1 tech WTB classified section for some time…
If anyone lives in Southern Texas and is into “debt collecting” if you can get that alleged Z-06 cam from him, I’ll gladly pay you for your time and efforts, or if you get my $94 back, keep the money for your efforts in showing him his error!
Here is the public announcement started back in Nov of 2007 concerning this “load that should’ve been swallowed"!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/negative-...-castillo.html
I typically do not refer to other people in a derogatory manner, even when they make mistakes that cost others, we all mistakes, we area ll human, owning that and making an effort NOT to hurt or scam someone is the way things should be. But this, blatant out and out lies to steal money bold face... well... ARRRGHHH....
Last edited by BRAAPZ; 03-26-2009 at 12:43 PM.
03-26-2009, 12:39 PM
#14
Update;
T-56 with LS6 flywheel and clutch assy arrived, received another LS1 intake and just locked in an LS6 intake that I will save for the long term power plant. ;-)
Head gaskets, new water pump, head bolts, new starter, and the 2000 Vette LS1 cam, 0968 grind, all arrived as well. The Z-06 cam was discussed above… I really need to come to place in my heart where I can forgive, but my mind struggles…
Just order some more goodies, coolant crossover, intake bolts, and few other trinkets that should arrive in the next week or so.
The collaboration for the custom pan is going forward, shared some detailed dimensions with the shop performing the work, hope to have a prototype pan in hand in the next month or so to start building the motor mounts.
Till the next update,
Paul
T-56 with LS6 flywheel and clutch assy arrived, received another LS1 intake and just locked in an LS6 intake that I will save for the long term power plant. ;-)
Head gaskets, new water pump, head bolts, new starter, and the 2000 Vette LS1 cam, 0968 grind, all arrived as well. The Z-06 cam was discussed above… I really need to come to place in my heart where I can forgive, but my mind struggles…
Just order some more goodies, coolant crossover, intake bolts, and few other trinkets that should arrive in the next week or so.
The collaboration for the custom pan is going forward, shared some detailed dimensions with the shop performing the work, hope to have a prototype pan in hand in the next month or so to start building the motor mounts.
Till the next update,
Paul
04-17-2009, 11:12 AM
#15
After a short bit of research on exhaust manifolds, I decided to get a pair of Vette LS6 crate motor take off exhaust manifolds. Never ran, price was very right! Will they fit my LSx Z-32 conversion? Dunno, but I hope they do. If they don’t I’m sure I’ll have no problem selling them for what I paid. If they do fit, I will finesse the exterior of them removing the casting flash and the heat shield mounting bosses, casting marks, etc and have them Ceramic coated, probably in Turbo Black. The reason I am so tickled over these manifolds is one, they are cast iron, less prone to manifold gasket leaks, two, from a flow standpoint, these are as or at least almost as good as a tri-Y shorty header. The interior surface is rough, not smooth like a header, but the primary diameters appear to be approx 1 5/8”- to possibly 1 ¾”? not quite round shaped, more oval shaped. All the merges are smooth fluid, no steps inside. They are very close to equal length and in a true tri-Y design. Not sure the "Tri-Y" design in of itself has much benefit, but if GM deemed it adequate for 405 OE HP in the LS6, then they should be more than adequate for my pesky little 5.3 sporting a Vette LS1 cam and LS1 intake, right? ;-) Fingers crossed they actually fit. Weight wise, for cast iron they feel pretty light, though not doubt they are heavier than headers of this same length, just not enough heavier that I am bothered by it.
This pic of the back side shows where the primaries and secondaries pair up in the casting.
This pic is looking up the collector. VERY difficult to make out in the picture, but you can just see the primary merge for the forward pair and the merge for the secondaries. The merges look nice and clean. VERY nice casting…
This pic of the back side shows where the primaries and secondaries pair up in the casting.
This pic is looking up the collector. VERY difficult to make out in the picture, but you can just see the primary merge for the forward pair and the merge for the secondaries. The merges look nice and clean. VERY nice casting…
04-17-2009, 11:12 AM
#16
Mocked up the new fuel rails on the LS1 intake. By itself, a bit blingy for my taste. I might try some satin/textured black paint in the machined valleys on the fuel rails to help dissipate the bling factor a tad. We’ll see.
I built an O-ring plug for the EGR stove pipe. I used a PVC plumbing fitting, chucked up in the lathe, turned it down to just fit, then machined a groove for the O-ring. The EGR hole in the intake also has vertical ribs that the plugs sits on, as well as the step I machined on the top of the plug, i.e. it can’t get sucked in. ;-) I will then machine a piece of aluminum that will fill the void between the TB and runners and get bolted down over the top of the plug using the treaded insert beside the EGR hole, that will keep the plug from being pushed out, (you know, just incase of unnatural aspirations…) ;-) Might have something catchy etched/engraved into the aluminum cover.
I built an O-ring plug for the EGR stove pipe. I used a PVC plumbing fitting, chucked up in the lathe, turned it down to just fit, then machined a groove for the O-ring. The EGR hole in the intake also has vertical ribs that the plugs sits on, as well as the step I machined on the top of the plug, i.e. it can’t get sucked in. ;-) I will then machine a piece of aluminum that will fill the void between the TB and runners and get bolted down over the top of the plug using the treaded insert beside the EGR hole, that will keep the plug from being pushed out, (you know, just incase of unnatural aspirations…) ;-) Might have something catchy etched/engraved into the aluminum cover.
04-17-2009, 11:13 AM
#17
Got inspired to mock up these super-whiz-bang exhaust manifolds. Stabbed the LS1 mock up block with one of my 5.3 cylinder heads in the Z-32 mock up mule tonight, attempted to drop in the Vette exhaust manifolds only to find the collector runs smack dab through the pinion gear of the rack. 
Shucks! That didn’t work. I really REALLY REALLY wanted to use these exhaust manifolds. For giggles I tried the truck exhaust manifolds. Again no go! The collectors exit just touching the frame rails and the driver side collector passes right smack dab in the middle of the steering shaft! I even tried swapping the Vette manifolds left for right, i.e. "forward dump", just incase I could make that work! NOPE! Crashes with the cross member. 
Here is the Vette manifold, driver side. The collector is sitting on top of the rack, needs to go “down” approx 3” from this position. Picture below that from underneath the trans tunnel, manifold sitting on the rack!
****************
Here is the truck exhaust manifold loosely hanging on the bolts, needs to tilt outwards a little, none the less, collector dumps through the steering shaft which is disconnected in the pic. (MAGENTA arrows linking rack to shaft)
That darn Rack and firewall!?!?!?... I’m starting to reconsider the notion of saving the firewall, admitting defeat and realizing … %#*&$%@#...
Back to the drawing board…
Shucks!
That didn’t work. I really REALLY REALLY wanted to use these exhaust manifolds. For giggles I tried the truck exhaust manifolds. Again no go! The collectors exit just touching the frame rails and the driver side collector passes right smack dab in the middle of the steering shaft! I even tried swapping the Vette manifolds left for right, i.e. "forward dump", just incase I could make that work! NOPE! Crashes with the cross member. Here is the Vette manifold, driver side. The collector is sitting on top of the rack, needs to go “down” approx 3” from this position. Picture below that from underneath the trans tunnel, manifold sitting on the rack!
****************
Here is the truck exhaust manifold loosely hanging on the bolts, needs to tilt outwards a little, none the less, collector dumps through the steering shaft which is disconnected in the pic. (MAGENTA arrows linking rack to shaft)
That darn Rack and firewall!?!?!?... I’m starting to reconsider the notion of saving the firewall, admitting defeat and realizing … %#*&$%@#...
Back to the drawing board…
04-17-2009, 11:14 AM
#18
LS2 GTO exhaust manifolds arrived, (as well as another cool goodie. An OE GM .525” lift LSx camshaft with matching springs and pushrods...) :2thumbs:
First things first, a few GTO exhaust mani glamour shots, then a quick and dirty mock up. After that, the question of manifold outlet size popped into my head…
I’ll skip the boring details and save that of the LSx swappers guide supplement later.
Short version is the driver side GTO manifold could be made to work, though will require creative down pipe fabrication to clear the steering shaft and rerouting the P/S steering hard line. Passenger side GTO manifold “just” contacts the frame rail. Angle milling the passenger head flange would tuck that side in little closer and clear fine. These are unique in that the out let is aimed aft, not down or partially down.
Down side to these manifolds is the small outlet size! Even the outlet of the my stock 5.3L truck manifolds is ½” larger ID!?! For my weenie little 5.3, these exhaust manifolds may not be restricting it too much. But for those of you with an LS2 GTO with stock manifolds, you have more mid to upper RPM power available in getting rid of those manifolds for a set of properly fitting headers!
For those wanting a simple Z-32 LSx, not concerned about every last ounce of 400+ HP, these manifolds might be a viable option.
Here are some shots I took today…
Here are the Z32 GTO exhaust manifold fitment shots.
Driver side;
Passenger side;
First things first, a few GTO exhaust mani glamour shots, then a quick and dirty mock up. After that, the question of manifold outlet size popped into my head…
I’ll skip the boring details and save that of the LSx swappers guide supplement later.
Short version is the driver side GTO manifold could be made to work, though will require creative down pipe fabrication to clear the steering shaft and rerouting the P/S steering hard line. Passenger side GTO manifold “just” contacts the frame rail. Angle milling the passenger head flange would tuck that side in little closer and clear fine. These are unique in that the out let is aimed aft, not down or partially down.
Down side to these manifolds is the small outlet size! Even the outlet of the my stock 5.3L truck manifolds is ½” larger ID!?! For my weenie little 5.3, these exhaust manifolds may not be restricting it too much. But for those of you with an LS2 GTO with stock manifolds, you have more mid to upper RPM power available in getting rid of those manifolds for a set of properly fitting headers!
For those wanting a simple Z-32 LSx, not concerned about every last ounce of 400+ HP, these manifolds might be a viable option.
Here are some shots I took today…
Here are the Z32 GTO exhaust manifold fitment shots.
Driver side;
Passenger side;
04-17-2009, 11:15 AM
#19
Caddy CTS-V LS6 exhaust manifolds arrived.
Interesting manifolds these are. The outlets are 2 different sizes. Driver side is 2 3/8” opening, passenger is 2 5/8”?!?!
On the driver side, there is quite a bit of material in the casting around the header pipe flange to open up the one side that is fed by the front 3 cylinders therefore balancing the outlet dimension a bit.
It is quite clear GM spent more time and attention on Vette exhaust manifolds. It'll be interesting to see the LS2 Vette manifolds when they arrive later this week.
Now on to the really cool part. These manifolds fit the Z-32 LSx with the engine sitting in this position PERFECTLY! (If you are moving your back, forward, up or down from the this location, no guarantee these will fit this nice).
Here be the pics, Cadillac CTS-V LS6 exhaust manifolds;
Parallax in the pic, actual measurement is 2 5/8" ID, not 2 9/16" as depicted
Here is the fitment in the mock up Z-32;
Driver side;
Clears the steering shaft. :2thumbs:
Passenger side;
Sorry about the blurred shot. It fits perfectly!
Interesting manifolds these are. The outlets are 2 different sizes. Driver side is 2 3/8” opening, passenger is 2 5/8”?!?!
On the driver side, there is quite a bit of material in the casting around the header pipe flange to open up the one side that is fed by the front 3 cylinders therefore balancing the outlet dimension a bit. It is quite clear GM spent more time and attention on Vette exhaust manifolds. It'll be interesting to see the LS2 Vette manifolds when they arrive later this week.
Now on to the really cool part. These manifolds fit the Z-32 LSx with the engine sitting in this position PERFECTLY! (If you are moving your back, forward, up or down from the this location, no guarantee these will fit this nice).
Here be the pics, Cadillac CTS-V LS6 exhaust manifolds;
Parallax in the pic, actual measurement is 2 5/8" ID, not 2 9/16" as depicted
Here is the fitment in the mock up Z-32;
Driver side;
Clears the steering shaft. :2thumbs:
Passenger side;
Sorry about the blurred shot. It fits perfectly!
04-17-2009, 11:15 AM
#20
LS2 C6 Vette Exhaust manifolds…
Outlets are 2 3/8” for both, with a cool header flange gasket. Note the recess in the header pipe flange. Not sure if the Vette pipe flange will be needed or just a flat flange. They seem to be for the most part symmetrical like the other Vette manifolds.
Fitment in the Z-32 looks pretty good. The CTS-V manifolds are a better fit, but these Vette LS2 manifolds are a close second place and look like can be made to work. The biggest issue is the driver side and getting the down pipe to clear the steering shaft and hydraulic lines. Down pipe to be an immediate offset towards the block should be enough.
LS2 Vette exhaust manifold mock up;
Passenger side;
Driver side;
Outlets are 2 3/8” for both, with a cool header flange gasket. Note the recess in the header pipe flange. Not sure if the Vette pipe flange will be needed or just a flat flange. They seem to be for the most part symmetrical like the other Vette manifolds.
Fitment in the Z-32 looks pretty good. The CTS-V manifolds are a better fit, but these Vette LS2 manifolds are a close second place and look like can be made to work. The biggest issue is the driver side and getting the down pipe to clear the steering shaft and hydraulic lines. Down pipe to be an immediate offset towards the block should be enough.
LS2 Vette exhaust manifold mock up;
Passenger side;
Driver side;