A-body ls swap combos. list the best here
#1
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A-body ls swap combos. list the best here
I know this has been beaten to death but I thought it would be cool to see what everyone thought was the best way to put an LS engine in an A-body. So list your mounts, headers, oil pan, A/C compressor, intake, heater box mods, trans tunnel mods,fuel tank and pump, here and state why it was the best or worst. Thanks. Oh and I have read the sticky but thought it would be nice to have people list combos here instead of deciphering each build in the stickey.
Last edited by jfg455; 08-22-2009 at 08:21 PM.
#2
I guess I will go first...1970 Chevelle, stock 2003 Lq9 with ls1 intake injectors/fuel rail, Area 51 pulley relocation bracket so I can keep the truck style pulleys. No A/C, Edelbrock headers, Hooker Motor mount plates, stock T56, Spectra fuel injection tank, plan on sending my harness and computer to Wait4me performance. Here is a link:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/introduct...drop-line.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/introduct...drop-line.html
#4
I recently completed a 1972 Chevelle 'vert with an '00 LS1 and 4l60e. All of the specs are listed in the thread below.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...l#post11933142
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...l#post11933142
#5
Just started mine. 1972 Buick GS, existing stock suspension drag car, TH 400. Putting a carb'd LS2/L92 in. I went with Edelbrock headers and mounts, Moroso oil pan, and Meziere water pump. I need to mount the alternator down low on the passenger side. I guess I'll have to fab a mount. I also got a TCI flexplate.
I like E-brock heads because of the step tubes, bigger collectors, and stainless. The price is great compared to mild steel headers. I need the motor to align with the trans in the stock location, and E-brock said their's would do that. I chose the Moroso pan because I want to run a remote oil filter so I can use a larger System 1. The TCI flex was a no-brainer. Spacers and SFI rating included.
My build is being detailed on hardcorels1.com in the non-F-body section. I'm just getting started, though.
I like E-brock heads because of the step tubes, bigger collectors, and stainless. The price is great compared to mild steel headers. I need the motor to align with the trans in the stock location, and E-brock said their's would do that. I chose the Moroso pan because I want to run a remote oil filter so I can use a larger System 1. The TCI flex was a no-brainer. Spacers and SFI rating included.
My build is being detailed on hardcorels1.com in the non-F-body section. I'm just getting started, though.
#7
04 GTO LS1, homemade mount brackets with energy suspension mounts,98 f-body pan,98 style exhaust manifolds,700r4 with custom converter(with extended snout),stock lower driverside alternator,custom upper pass side A/C bracket with Classic Auto Air system(flush firewall plate),Walbro 255 external pump,corvette filter/reg.
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98 Vette LS1/2004R in a 66 Skylark. I used Edelbrock headers (they are a stepped design), the BRP mounts which sit the engine pretty high and the LH8 oil pan. I think that the f body pan would have fit as the engine is very close to the firewall. LH8 pan hangs an inch or inch and a half below the crossmember. Deleted the A/C because the compressor hit the crossmember. I bought a Spectra Premium gas tank from Rock Auto to handle the fuel issue. I still have to finish the TV cable set up and get a tune to match up my hodge podge of parts (card style maf with a corvette air cleaner, 3600 Vigilante stall, comp cam, LS6 heads & intake, and Harland Sharp roller rockers.)
#9
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04 GTO LS1, homemade mount brackets with energy suspension mounts,98 f-body pan,98 style exhaust manifolds,700r4 with custom converter(with extended snout),stock lower driverside alternator,custom upper pass side A/C bracket with Classic Auto Air system(flush firewall plate),Walbro 255 external pump,corvette filter/reg.
thanks
#10
a/c is stand-alone Classic Auto Air setup.completely separate from PCM. Nothing says the computer has to do ANYTHING with A/C!!!!! I have a Speartech harness and there is one wire that ties into A/C which i dont even use.( when it senses power to compresser, it raises idle about 100rpm...) Fans are also separate from computer. I use a radiator probe for on/off...
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cool a/c idea. I used the moroso fan sitches in a tapped hole in the water pump housing. They are $18 and give you a couple of options for heat range on-off. If you wanted to kick them on with the a/c then just send a second wire from switch to a relay that kicks on with the compressor. Easy peasey.
#14
I hate to revive an "old" thread, but I thought you all might be interested. I originally bought the Moroso 20141 pan with the angled front sump. It's even listed in the "Oil Pan" sticky on this section. This pan will NOT work with a stock a-body frame and steering linkage. I sat my motor in this weekend and the pan is about 1/8" above the centerlink. I have about half a turn before the inner tie rod hits the pan. I tried raising the engine up to clear it, but after raising it over 1" it still wouldn't clear. I'm switching to the 20140 pan with the flat sump. It's basically the same as the AutoKraft pan, from what I can see. Maybe someone already knew this, but I hadn't run across it doing my research. I don't see how Moroso can list this pan for '65 to '72 Chevelles.
Have fun.
Have fun.
#15
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i bought a pan from Moroso when i put a 540 in a 68 chevelle, same deal, steering hit-i called them, they knew it was a problem, but to this date never changed the listing, but they did swap out the pan for me-seems they dont bother correcting stuff
i use the caddy cts pan, its so close to a perfect fit, i dont worry about it
i use the caddy cts pan, its so close to a perfect fit, i dont worry about it
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