SatisTraction

iTrader: (2)

i just installed the ls1 in my 69 with the hooker mounts. it was TIGHT fit but i think i MAY get away without notching my oil pan. i have an old pan that i cut on there now but the drag link seems to clear it anyway.

so has anyone else tried it?

DCx

iTrader: (12)

i hear the hooker plates put the engine too far back. did you see the new mounts that trans dapt put out? they are like the hookers but the motor mount is in line with the block mount holes. check it out.

new trans dapt mounts


hooker style


and lastly the S&P, carshop, and transdapt style mounts mounts

SatisTraction

iTrader: (2)

nope. i used the hooker mounts. they fit fine. it is just tight.

69LT1Bird

iTrader: (1)

Make sure you check the linkage at full lock in both directions. I had dumbing mount adapters installed (making my own) and I had issues on full right turns. I have the Hooker headers too, I wish they would have bent the #5 tube back further towards the #7, there would be a ton of room at the rear of the steering gear. Heck you could move the engine an inch forward if you wanted.

1968CamaroSS

iTrader: (1)

i know this is an old thread but, which mounts are using with the hooker plates? I have the hooker plates and sbc engine mounts and my alternator is hitting the subframe.

Thanks,

Eric

rattlesnake_dm

Well, I've currently got BRP mounts in my car (1969 Camaro) but they have problems too, with Hooker Headers, steering box doesn't fit and the engine sits on the center steering link, need to notch the oil pan. Also the header on the driver side rests on the engine mount and the engine sits really close to the A-Arm on the passenger side. I also tried the Hooker Mounts, but they moved the engine too far back, I couldn't even get the frame mounts to line up with the holes and the engine block was against the fire wall, I still had 1/2inch to go back yet. So nothing is really working for me. I may fab my own mounts in the near future to put the engine where I want it to be. Just make sure you do your homework and when you choose a company to buy from, buy all their stuff, mixing and matching is too much hassle.

rattlesnake_dm

I was looking at my Hooker swap engine plates and had a stupid idea, as the plates in stock form put the engine in (my car at least) too far back, could I not just modify these plates, by welding the holes where the engine mount goes closed and drill and tap new holes where I want. Then I can position the engine where I need it and don't have to pay for new swap plates.

Slow 346

iTrader: (33)

Im using the Carshop 1" setback mounts and Hooker headers. Plenty of room...can actually install both headers from the top and clear the gear box without any issues. Motor is close to the firewall but dont have any problems.

Blue67LS2

iTrader: (2)

Any idea how much difference there is between the Hooker and carshop mounts? I have the Hookers currently and there is about 1/2 clearance between the right valve cover and firewall. The F body pans clears as do the Hooker headers. I would like a little more clearance to the firewall if there is a combination the would allow this without creating oil pan steering box/ header issues?

I would be interested in seeing any pics of your carshop mounts and the clearance around the common problem areas. Thanks!

Slow 346

iTrader: (33)

Ill have to snap a few pics for ya....my motor is maybe a 1/2" from the firewall on the pass. side also. with the 1" setback Carshop mounts. Im using the LH8 pan cause I didnt the the F body would work? I does hang a little low but no issues with any steering linkage at all.

Steve88

iTrader: (5)

I have the Carshop 1" set back mounts with Hooker headers also and and everything fits nicely. From what I have read the Carshop 1" set back mounts and the Hooker mounts are very similar so the issue could be with frame stands also. There are 3 different types of frame stand on first gens-the 307/327 stands(which is what I have) the 302/350 stands and the big block stands so you may want to look into that also. I have the AutoKraft sheetmetal pans and it works great with tons of room for the steering components and does not hang down below the cross member and has extra capacity. You can see some pics of my set up at the link below.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ebird-ls1.html

Blue67LS2

iTrader: (2)

Steve,

Thanks for the post. Nice looking car... the engine looks right at home.

Here are a couple of pics of mine demonstrating the firewall clearance, etc. I also had a starter clearance issue depsite having a mini Summit starter which was clockable. I ended up going with the newer style MSD starter which just barely clears.

I'm really surprised at what a tight fit these LS engines are in the 1st gen cars. I know this has been done numerous times before, but there are so many combinations and variables that can throw a kink into the equation. I am on my second oil pan, second starter and second set of mounts. I guess third time is a charm. Hopefully its all worth it in the end!

Thanks again for your input...

Slow 346

iTrader: (33)

Wow....My motor isnt that close to my firewall. My car had factory AC and ended up buying a AC Delete box that retained my heat. My heater box would never work with my motor setback that far. As for starter issues...im using a factory F body starter and no issues at all between my headers and starter. Once again, plenty of room.

Racinjason424

iTrader: (1)

C'mon Slow!! Don't leave us brothers hangin! Bust that camera out!! I have my lS1 ready to drop in my '69 with the carshop mounts stuck on and I need some encouragment! Are you using F-body accessories by chance? I guess the pics will tell the tale.. Seeing what you've seen, do you think the f-body pan would have worked?? Thanks.

Slow 346

iTrader: (33)

I took some crappy pics....very hard to actually see how close to the firewall it is. Im using factory F body accessories minus the PS as I have a manual gear box. As for the F body pan.....id have to go under the car to check...I can do that tomorrow for ya.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/42208866@N02/

69LT1Bird

iTrader: (1)

The F car oil pan will not work unless you modify it.

I made my own plate that bolts to the block and then the stock motor mounts bolt to that. Hooker coated long tubes for the LS1 first gen conversion top it off. F car accessories and stock starter. Non-A/C car.

Good clearances and no issues.

68 RS Convertible

iTrader: (1)

I used an unmodified F body oil pan on my first gen swap. Hooker plates with Hooker headers. Stock suspension no problems lock to lock. It is close, but I've been running it all year without any problems.

Adam Connell

I've got a 69 Nova that came with a 350. I plan on using the car shop inc plates and hooker headers.

Any one know if i can get away with an Fbody pan? I was planning on using the moroso swap pan originally, so I dont think there will be an issue with it, but I would not mind if i could get an OEM unit.

Im either going with a 5.3 or a 6.0 and a nice little blower stickin through the hood... was gunna go turbo, but for the same kind of cash I can put a nice hole in my hood and make a much bolder statement haha!

Racinjason424

iTrader: (1)

Looks great! I have a very similar set-up, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed!! only difference that I see, is that I have p/s.. Do you think the steering box being power, rather than manual will cause an add'l clearance issues with alternator/ headers? That is about the only thing I'm worried about. Im using the 1" carshops too.. Thanks again for the great pics! Jason

Racinjason424

iTrader: (1)

SHES READY TO DROP (I know the pictures say May.. Wife's deck #1, my motor swap #2..)