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Almost no oil press at firts start... HELP!!

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Old 05-30-2010, 08:30 AM
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Default Almost no oil press at firts start... HELP!!

I´ve just start my new engine (conversion 04 gto LS1 on my 73 camaro) and run it for about a min, a no oil press on the gauge (electric autometer). The oil sender is next to the oil filter. Yesterday I´ve check again just with the starter like 3 times.. 10 seconds turning without starting, and nothing, then took the sender out and turn it again and oil was coming out of the hole. I took out one valve cover and no oil got out when y turn the engine but still going out oil from the oil sender hole (with this I guess it is not a problem with the o-ring on the oil pump/Pick up tube as the oil is coming out..). Maybe the engine need more time to get full of oil? it was drained and empty of oil for about 6 months before this procedure.. I´m using motul 5w30 oil.
Old 05-30-2010, 10:00 AM
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Question.. Was this a running engine before (sound like yes) ?.. and was it taken apart and rebuild/assembled (any or all of it)?
Old 05-30-2010, 10:42 AM
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U change the oil pan when you did the transplant?
Old 05-30-2010, 11:19 AM
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Default O-Ring

You say you have some oil coming out of the oil sender hole, you should have alot of oil coming out, Pretty sure you had to change the oil pan and pickup for the retro-fit, I had the same problem and it was a pinched o-ring on the pick up tube and I had still had a little pressure but very little, I tried all of the other tricks that I read about on this forum such as adding 10 qts. of oil and still I had no luck I had to do what I didnt want to do which was pull the engine and drop the pan and check the pickup tube and sure enough it was pinched, I installed another o-ring and tried again and same problem, well on try #3, I found the pickup was slighly cocked when I bolted it down so I gave it a little muscle persuasion and bent it and made sure it sat flush with the pump, and for extra insurance I installed one of those oil pump girdles that clamps the pickup with two bolts the pump itself and that finally solved the problem. Probably not what you want to hear but you probably already have that feeling in your gut especially if you know for sure you had a good running engine prior to the swap as I did.
Old 05-30-2010, 12:07 PM
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That´s exactly my feeling and what i dont want to hear... the engine was runing and it only have 30k miles on it, so i guess it doesn´t have any oil issues on it, as you mentined I had to change the oil pan and pickup tube.. apperently I installed correct .. better double check ....but it is like starting al over again...

do you have the p/n of the oring? I¿ll have to start looking it here in chile.. on just bring it form USA.
Old 05-30-2010, 12:32 PM
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PM me, I'll pick up a couple and mail them to you if you can't find one.
Old 05-30-2010, 12:43 PM
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Try to jack the back of the car up as far as you can and turn the motor over. This should submerge the oil pump in oil and prime the system for you. I had the same problem on my first start up and I was able to prime the system by jacking the back up, as far as possible and cranking it over. It took a good 15-20 seconds to build up pressure. I would try this before tearing into it to check o rings and oil pumps.
Old 05-30-2010, 04:23 PM
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I´ll try this to see what happens.. I´ll let you know, thanks.

Thanks JJFarm.. I´ll pm you in case i dont find them here..
Old 05-30-2010, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 68 RS Convertible
Try to jack the back of the car up as far as you can and turn the motor over. This should submerge the oil pump in oil and prime the system for you. I had the same problem on my first start up and I was able to prime the system by jacking the back up, as far as possible and cranking it over. It took a good 15-20 seconds to build up pressure. I would try this before tearing into it to check o rings and oil pumps.
If the problem is a pinched oring. It needs replacing. Period. No redneck submerging the oilpump is going to fix anything. It is a sealed unit. Some people really need to think about things. Bad advise is worse than NO advise
Old 05-30-2010, 08:55 PM
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Default O-Ring Part Number

Originally Posted by patoruzrs73
That´s exactly my feeling and what i dont want to hear... the engine was runing and it only have 30k miles on it, so i guess it doesn´t have any oil issues on it, as you mentined I had to change the oil pan and pickup tube.. apperently I installed correct .. better double check ....but it is like starting al over again...

do you have the p/n of the oring? I¿ll have to start looking it here in chile.. on just bring it form USA.
G.M. part Number is 12557752 but make sure it is blue and not red, the red ones were replaced with a updated version and it is blue in color and if i am not mistaking even the blue one was updated with a better blue one so ask the parts person to make sure it is the newest version, although the parts person probably doesnt even know that they have been updated. Where did you get your pickup? Make sure that it sits flush to the pump when you tighten down the retaining tabs on the pickup tube, if it doesnt sit flush when tightened down it will suck air from there and will give you the low oil pressure, I feel your pain I installed my engine 3 times and finally on the 3rd time it was the charm, it is such a simple set up I couldnt believe I screwed it up 2 times. Good Luck

Originally Posted by Jimbo1367
If the problem is a pinched oring. It needs replacing. Period. No redneck submerging the oilpump is going to fix anything. It is a sealed unit. Some people really need to think about things. Bad advise is worse than NO advise
Agreed you will waste more time and money dicking with it and wished you had fixed it the proper way.
Old 05-31-2010, 08:26 AM
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Exclamation Not quite..

an accurate statement.
"G.M. part Number is 12557752 but make sure it is blue and not red, the red ones were replaced with a updated version and it is blue in color and if i am not mistaking even the blue one was updated with a better blue one so ask the parts person to make sure it is the newest version."

The different colors are due to use in different applications.
As suggested, have the parts guy pull up your specific application....
The 752 ring is for F-body, Vettes, etc. Blue
The 922 " " " 6.0 Hummer and trucks. Red
There are more apps listed in the parts book. I dealt only w/ these., as I was given the 752# as being correct for my H2 Hummer engine....NOT!
Old 05-31-2010, 09:47 AM
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FYI, dealerships dont always have the O-ring and when they do, they'll charge you for the pack of 5 they come in even thought you'll only get one of them

I spent a day and a half desperately searching for an O-ring to finish up my swap. Ended up matching the damaged one with a universal oil-safe O-ring from a local parts store
Old 05-31-2010, 11:47 AM
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Default Another Option

Originally Posted by Pocket
FYI, dealerships dont always have the O-ring and when they do, they'll charge you for the pack of 5 they come in even thought you'll only get one of them

I spent a day and a half desperately searching for an O-ring to finish up my swap. Ended up matching the damaged one with a universal oil-safe O-ring from a local parts store
I got my blue o-ring from the local Chevrolet or Pontiac dealer and it was in a single pack if I remember correctly it was like $5.00

I have also went to a Autozone and bought a Melling LS2 oil pump part#10296 and it came with 2 new o-rings a green one and a black one I cant remember which one I used but it worked fine, and then I did the unspeakable and returned the new oil pump to Autozone minus the o-rings and got my money back. Shame on Me
Old 05-31-2010, 01:32 PM
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I´ve ask here and GM dealers don´t have that P/N (in all the country, just to add that there are only few of this engines here except for the new camaro´s), Il try to look in USA...
Old 05-31-2010, 05:15 PM
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How long ago was it when you got your O-ring? I checked all the dealers within an hour and none had one
Old 06-01-2010, 03:46 AM
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Default Oil sender?

Not sure about the terminology here, but you said the oil sender is next to the oil pan. The oil pressure sensor is on top of the engine all the way to the rear, the sensor near the oil pan is the oil level sensor.

I'm probably just not understanding something here, but thought I'd offer the tidbit that I know.
Old 06-01-2010, 06:53 AM
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Alot of swaps do not have sufficient clearance at the rear of the intake to mount the sender so its moved to the bypass block off near the filter
Old 06-01-2010, 10:11 AM
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You guys have to remember that some pickup tubes are different size and some even taper towards the end. I have an LS book that says this.
Old 06-01-2010, 03:13 PM
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Correct, trucks narrow down more than Fbody tubes

Even so, it should be readily apparent if the O-ring doesnt make the pickup tube snug to the pump
Old 06-06-2010, 08:15 PM
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Default rechecking before ....

first... need to give thanks to JJFarm for his help

Now need to tell that meanwhile I wait for the new oring to arrive I installed a mechanical oil press instead of the electrical one I used last time (this last ones was working good before doing the conversion.) I did a new oil press test, took out all the plugs and start turning the engine just with the starter.
.. guess... the instrument started to go up until 30 lbs.. did this twice and the same results... ... no strange sounds.. just the sound of the engine turning...

Then did the same but looking to the valve-train .. turn the engine for like 10 second like for 3 time waiting a min in between... no oil came out on the rockers... just dont know what to do.. what do you think? maybe need more time to get oil there? also I think I will check on the original oil sensor with my electrical instrument... to see if i have the same press that the other instrument show...

Please need some coments on this.. i´ll love NOT to take out the oil pan to change the pickup tube o-ring..

I leave you a video..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHSWPdz6ABo


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