boostnut

iTrader: (7)

I finally got around to test fitting the LS1/4L60 in my 95 mustang. I had some difficulty getting the AJE trans crossmember installed. I ended up having to extend one of the slots in the mount in order to get it to bolt up. I didn't think I should have to do that, anybody else have this issue? It may just be my car, I also had some difficulty getting one of the pairs of bolts to line up at the subframe when I installed the AJE k-member (it was months ago, can't remember which side).

So the concern is this, if the engine & trans are installed at a slight angle will there be problems? Will I be chasing a driveline vibration problem, rifle thru u-joints, break mounts, ........? Any input appreciated!

Rick364ls

iTrader: (1)

I am doing the same thing but lq4 and a 400 turbo and it is a bit off to the drivers side at the tail shaft. I have done nothing yet to remedy it as mine is not complete yet

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

The output shaft of the transmission and the pinion gear need to be parallel, not only when viewed from the side, bust also when viewed from the top (or bottom). If they aren't parallel, you will be chasing driveline vibrations.

This should help: Spicer Tech Paper

Read the whole thing, especially starting on page 8.

Andrew

billsnogo

iTrader: (7)

But didn't the big block Nova/Camaros have the tailshaft of the tranny moved to one side compared to the small block creating a similar situation?

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

No. The big block Camaros and Novas had the engine offset to the side. In other words it wasn't just the tailshaft that was moved over, both the engine and trans were moved over. That way the transmission output shaft and the pinion gear were still parallel when viewed from the top.

Andrew

boostnut

iTrader: (7)

From p.11 of the above reference:

Note: It is important to remember to keep the centerlines of two components that are connected by a driveshaft parallel in both the top and side views, so the operating angles will ALWAYS be equal.

Not good, if my engine/trans is angled than there is no way the centerlines could be parallel (unless the rearend is out of whack by the same angle, lol). Guess I better get that things lined up.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

You can build a quick and easy test set using laser pointers to check the U joint angles. Laser pointers check them in both planes.

silvertooth

I put an aje k member in my 95 v6 mustang and did not have to slot any of the holes.You might want to give them a call?
I have the engine setting in it with a t56.Still need to finish the trans cross member,clutch,wiring etc.......

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

Car been wrecked?

boostnut

iTrader: (7)

I don't think so but I'm no pro in this department. The previous owner bought it in 97 & kept it until last winter when I picked it up. Its had some track time, the po had a stroked & supercharged sb ford in it (so it probably ran mid 13's, lol). He showed me a little bit of damage to the bottom of the core support that happened when loading it on a trailer one night, other than that there is no evidence of an accident. The paint matches on the body & under the car, body lines line up good,..... I really don't think its been wrecked.

I'm not sure how to proceed here. Do I:

1) slot the motor mount bolt holes to get the engine/trans straight with the car & not worry about the k-member being straight & square with the rest of the car

2)slot the k-member mounting holes & try to get it straight & square with the rest of the car

Something tells me I'd better go with #2 above. I don't know jack chit about alignment work but I have to believe the k-member needs to be closely aligned with the rearend. Any tips here?

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

You can do some basic chassis checks with some attention to detail and a tape measure. If you can find a body dimensions manual for your car, that would be great. If not, pick some points on the chassis in the rear and in the front. The lower rear control arm mounting points will work. In the front you can use the K-member mounts. Measure the distance from front to back on each side. It should be the same on the left and right. Then measure the diagonals, they should also be the same. If not, then you have some chassis problems.

I have a hard time believing that the K-member holes are that far off. It is most likely the motor mounts, but it is hard to say without measuring everything. Good luck and keep us posted.

Andrew

boostnut

iTrader: (7)

Andrew, thanks for the info. I'm familiar with attention to detail w/measurements, I used to do a little qc work.

Not sure when I'll have time to get back to work on the car but I'll be sure to update this thread when I take the measurements. Unfortunately my gut tells me that either the k-member is not good & square (could be a result of the weld procedure) or the car is tweaked. I'll blame the car either way, fu%#ing Ford.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Good luck and keep us posted.

Andrew

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

You sure you have the correct motor mounts and trans mount? AJE sent me two different motor mounts the first go around which was a headache. I do remember having to slot one of the holes in the chassis for the trans xmember and i believe it was the passenger side. Everything appears to be lined up now and damn does the trans crossmember really screw you with making an exhaust.

boostnut

iTrader: (7)

I'm not sure if the motor mounts are correct, I flipped theirs (per their instruction) and trimmed the angled end off since the bolt hole didn't line up once flipped. This set the engine back further than "normal". This also required a special offset trans mount. It went in without too much of a fight once I extended one of the slots. Its not perfect but should be better once the drive line gets straightened out.

I'm not terribly impressed with AJE's product but I work in the tube forming industry & am surrounded some excellent tig welders. Anyway, I will say AJE's customer service (so far) has been outstanding. After the initial mockup I questioned their motor mounts since they could be installed 2 different ways & the directions were non-existant. They provided me pics of installed mounts & explained the differences. After getting it re-installed with the mounts flipped the original trans mount wouldn't line up. 1 call & they were building me an offset mount & sending me a UPS call tag for the original - at no cost! They get a thumbs up for support after the sale, this all happened about 6 months after the original purchase.