TheSargSter

Hey guys,

So im in a nutshell. My '94 is at the body shop getting painted, and i have a 355 gen 1 ready to drop in once it gets back.

Im picking my brain about the motor mounts, im reading everything that i can find. What i have currently is a set of gen 1 clamshells from an '86 Z. Im trying to figure out what else i need to purchase to drop this thing in, WITHOUT doing any 'cutting and customizing' i know people have done it .. ive heard people using the energy suspension inserts with a certain clamshell, etc.. but no body has descriptively mentioned what 'combo' they used for motor mounts.

Whats my best route so i can get stuff ordered so im good to drop this thing?

99VetteFRC

Well you should use '93-'97 LT1 mounts, should bolt in perfectly.

TheSargSter

Not to judge your knowledge, but its every other person that say it will work. also someone says on the passenger side i can use gen 1 mounts and the driver to use LT1 mounts.

Should i use the thirdgen upper portion of the mount and LT1 lower's or?

Johnny-LT1-runner

iTrader: (15)

That's like taking two steps backwards, why would you do that?

TheSargSter

Dude why would you even ask me that.. clearly the reason i made this post in the first place was to get a simplified answer cause i dont know what to do. So..

Johnny-LT1-runner

iTrader: (15)

Well, if you are talking about putting a Gen I into a 4th gen F body, then the F body LT1 mounts will work, after all, the mounting points on the block are the same.
But seriously, was it a V6 or something and you just had the 355 ready?

TheSargSter

I picked the car up cheap. Was an LT1 car but was gutted. Yes i had the 355 before i got the car. As far as the mounting points go yes there in the same location, but isnt the bolt patern different on the driver side?

99VetteFRC

No, all tha small and big blocks have the same motor mount locations until LS engine series.

Johnny-LT1-runner

iTrader: (15)

^^Correct. I wonder how well a carb would fit under that cowl. Seems like most of it would be under the windshield and up in the car.

Strokinit383

iTrader: (22)

I used to have a gen 1 sbc in my 94. From what ive read, you can use the LT1 mounts, but only two of the bolt holes line up with the traditional sbc. The LT1 mounts had a 3rd bolt hole that extended rearwards towards the back of the block. The Gen1 sbc will not have this hole. Im not sure if this is on both sides or just one. I went with a tubular k member. If you dont want to cut the cowl, dont even bother putting it in. Unless your run a crab cap and crank trigger, you wont be able to get the distrutor out. I used a mallory unilite, which was the smallest I could find and it was still a pain.

Just my $.02, its not worth the swap. Just sell the 355 and build a nice LT1 or swap in an LS1. Its more trouble than its worth. There is a thread in the SBC/BBC dedicated to this swap.

Novaman

https://ls1tech.com/forums/small-blo...lt1-f-car.html
Follow this link, If you still have questions make a new thread over there. These dudes are just gonna rail you for not puttin an lsx in it. Good luck

Johnny-LT1-runner

iTrader: (15)

Well yeah, it's a literal downgrade. Of course we're gonna dog him for it in the LS swap section, but we'll still help.

99VetteFRC

To each his own guys... Lots of poeple get dogged for putting LSX in where a BBC once sat.

TheSargSter

At some point in this car's future, i will be building an LSx. However at this point and time, my main worry is getting it on the road for transportation.. Its very typical to hear everyone tell me a gen 1 sbc is a down grade. I really much appreciate you all telling me something that ive known for years. However, the 355 is something i had sitting around.. so its getting done.

Now, seeing that this car IS setup for an LT1, (minus alot of the engine harness) .. it still has the stock LT1 fuel system in it. Could i buy a universal pressure regulator to re use all of it with a carb setup for less hastle? or is it going to be required to pull the in tank pump, replace the sending unit/etc and run an inline low pressure pump?

Much appreciated guys..

Strokinit383

iTrader: (22)

I just ran a return style aeromotive regulator and kept the in tank pump. You can wire it so that the pump relay is always hot in "ignition" and "run". I also added a kill switch so that I could turn it off if I had the key turned forward and didnt want the pump to continually run. I used compression fittings from the steel line to run AN braided hose up to the regulator.

99VetteFRC

^^^^ Like Strokinit383 said, get a fuel preesure regulator and put in line and use a return line to keep the pump cool.