Is there a way to start up an engine on a stand?
02-28-2012, 10:33 PM
#1
Is there a way to start up an engine on a stand? I'm looking at an ls model engine to start my swap. Most engines are pulled out of vehicles and can't hear them run.
What all do I need to hookup To get it started.
It comes with an engine harness and ecu and all accessories I read vats has to be disabled.
Also are 4.8 and 5.3 ecu's compatibles ?
I really like to hear an engine run before I commit to all the work and it be a bad engine.
What all do I need to hookup To get it started.
It comes with an engine harness and ecu and all accessories I read vats has to be disabled.
Also are 4.8 and 5.3 ecu's compatibles ?
I really like to hear an engine run before I commit to all the work and it be a bad engine.
02-29-2012, 01:06 AM
#3
Your best bet would be to wait till you find a running car... My friend (95ststa) finds them occasionally for around 3500-4000... Get one of those and then sell the parts you dont need.... by the time you create a stand to test an engine, you will probably have enough time/money in it to justify buying a running car anyways...
02-29-2012, 01:39 AM
#4
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you would need the "right" harness and tune on the engine for it to run
i did mine with a old battery, old fuel pump+gas can and some other odds and ends = but mine was a turnkey engine
it might be possible to bypass the pcm/stock harness/ and use some kind of gasoline squirt bottle into the throttle body (to hear it run for a few seconds) but i have no idea (someone else would have to chime in on that one)
i did mine with a old battery, old fuel pump+gas can and some other odds and ends = but mine was a turnkey engine
it might be possible to bypass the pcm/stock harness/ and use some kind of gasoline squirt bottle into the throttle body (to hear it run for a few seconds) but i have no idea (someone else would have to chime in on that one)
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04-29-2012, 07:20 PM
#8
TECH Fanatic
I reworked my harness and just hooked up a couple jumper cables and tested my pcm, then decided to start it. was very easy. The link below is my you tube video and it was filmed before I removed the VATS. I later started it with a pump dropped in a bucket of gas after I removed VATS.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a0AR_...4&feature=plcp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a0AR_...4&feature=plcp
04-29-2012, 08:01 PM
#9
A work buddy built the blue engine test stand. It's sold and now I have this one. I revised several things I did not like on the original one. I changed it to lower the engine, simpler truck style engine mounts, cleaner radiator fill position, cleaner bellhousing mount, etc. Total cost including free mufflers, exhaust and fuel pump, new steel, casters is about $350 plus assembly time.
http://s704.photobucket.com/albums/w...filter=noflash
I highly discourage starting any engine on an engine asembly stand without a radiator and fuel system. No safe at all. Plus you can't test the injectors.
http://s704.photobucket.com/albums/w...filter=noflash
I highly discourage starting any engine on an engine asembly stand without a radiator and fuel system. No safe at all. Plus you can't test the injectors.
10-23-2012, 02:45 PM
#10
A work buddy built the blue engine test stand. It's sold and now I have this one. I revised several things I did not like on the original one. I changed it to lower the engine, simpler truck style engine mounts, cleaner radiator fill position, cleaner bellhousing mount, etc. Total cost including free mufflers, exhaust and fuel pump, new steel, casters is about $350 plus assembly time.
http://s704.photobucket.com/albums/w...filter=noflash
I highly discourage starting any engine on an engine asembly stand without a radiator and fuel system. No safe at all. Plus you can't test the injectors.
http://s704.photobucket.com/albums/w...filter=noflash
I highly discourage starting any engine on an engine asembly stand without a radiator and fuel system. No safe at all. Plus you can't test the injectors.
12-21-2013, 04:28 PM
#12
My youtube channel has several vids of engines running on my ERS (Engine Run Stand).
VATS MUST be deleted in the PCM file OR a VATS bypass module used. The bypass module is not the best way considering most swaps delete all the emissions devices so the check engine light will be ON and all the associated codes will be set in the PCM and show on a scanner. Kind of defeats the whole purpose of doing a clean efficient swap. But it will run for less than 3 seconds if even that long.
I use an inline Walbro pump but you can use any junk yard used in-tank or inline pump as long as you run a filter. no sense shoving stale fuel that's been sitting in the fuel rail and injectors right into the injectors. I always soak and clean them before running a used engine.
VATS MUST be deleted in the PCM file OR a VATS bypass module used. The bypass module is not the best way considering most swaps delete all the emissions devices so the check engine light will be ON and all the associated codes will be set in the PCM and show on a scanner. Kind of defeats the whole purpose of doing a clean efficient swap. But it will run for less than 3 seconds if even that long.
I use an inline Walbro pump but you can use any junk yard used in-tank or inline pump as long as you run a filter. no sense shoving stale fuel that's been sitting in the fuel rail and injectors right into the injectors. I always soak and clean them before running a used engine.
12-21-2013, 04:38 PM
#13
My youtube channel has several vids of engines running on my ERS (Engine Run Stand).
VATS MUST be deleted in the PCM file OR a VATS bypass module used. The bypass module is not the best way considering most swaps delete all the emissions devices so the check engine light will be ON and all the associated codes will be set in the PCM and show on a scanner. Kind of defeats the whole purpose of doing a clean efficient swap. But it will run for less than 3 seconds if even that long.
I use an inline Walbro pump but you can use any junk yard used in-tank or inline pump as long as you run a filter. no sense shoving stale fuel that's been sitting in the fuel rail and injectors right into the injectors. I always soak and clean them before running a used engine.
VATS MUST be deleted in the PCM file OR a VATS bypass module used. The bypass module is not the best way considering most swaps delete all the emissions devices so the check engine light will be ON and all the associated codes will be set in the PCM and show on a scanner. Kind of defeats the whole purpose of doing a clean efficient swap. But it will run for less than 3 seconds if even that long.
I use an inline Walbro pump but you can use any junk yard used in-tank or inline pump as long as you run a filter. no sense shoving stale fuel that's been sitting in the fuel rail and injectors right into the injectors. I always soak and clean them before running a used engine.
12-21-2013, 06:08 PM
#15
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It should at least crack off with some starting fluid and the proper harness. I wouldn't trust a regular engine stand to hold a running engine though. I'd at least hook a crane to it as a backup in case it tips.
12-29-2013, 02:39 PM
#19
Yes, you can do away with all of the Cxxx cconectors... they are just that... connectors... a convent way to connect the engine to the engine bay and body harnesses. Just cut the out, and wire the wires to what is required.
By disconnecting the Cxxx. It made it easy for GM to raise the engine into place or for the dealer to drop the engine out to sercices the car/engine.
By disconnecting the Cxxx. It made it easy for GM to raise the engine into place or for the dealer to drop the engine out to sercices the car/engine.
12-29-2013, 04:01 PM
#20
Yes, you can do away with all of the Cxxx cconectors... they are just that... connectors... a convent way to connect the engine to the engine bay and body harnesses. Just cut the out, and wire the wires to what is required.
By disconnecting the Cxxx. It made it easy for GM to raise the engine into place or for the dealer to drop the engine out to sercices the car/engine.
By disconnecting the Cxxx. It made it easy for GM to raise the engine into place or for the dealer to drop the engine out to sercices the car/engine.