LQ4/T56 into 2001 BMW 540i
08-16-2012, 09:15 AM
#1
LQ4/T56 into 2001 BMW 540i after seeing many awesome threads on here featuring E39s with LSX power, i decided to go ahead and do my own. i love the M62, but:
-not enough power
-too complicated
-too expensive to fix
-Vanos is knocking hard
-no potential for making easy cheap power
So, after researching, I've decided to go with a truck/SUV style motor due to price and availability over the more popular aluminum candidates. I like the idea of higher compression for NA application, so I will be going with an LQ9 (6.0 iron block, aluminum heads). seems that they are most readily available in 2002-2006 Escalade, so i'm searching for one now. tranny will be T56--anyone have any recommendations as to where to look for one besides car-part.com? maybe LS1Tech?
i have my eye on a local LQ9 from LKQ, but they want a $350 core charge. i obviously have no motor to give them to avoid that. for those of you who used LKQ, did you pay this charge?
i will be fabricating my own exhaust and mounts. will use Camaro SS manifolds and adapt them to the OEM exhaust, like rao did.
i have no clue where to start off with wiring. all i know is that i'll need the Escalade PCM (or can i use any fbody PCM?), and the harness. i'm stupid when it comes to electronics.
picked up a few parts to kick things off.
came off a 1998 Trans Am (guy upgraded to a F.A.S.T. or something)
it came with a drive by cable throttle body--i will probably have to use a drive by wire depending on the PCM i end up using. not sure yet, i guess it's based on compatibility/ease.
i'm in the process of cleaning the oil pan. this is "before". it sat for a long time. came off a 98-02 F body. not sure if it'll fit, with the crossmember, but i guess i can always modify it. (i have access to a full fabrication/sheetmetal shop at work). it was a good deal so i couldn't turn it down.
removed the baffle for cleaning...see anything unusual besides the dirt?
this is my first time inside one of these motors, so i will have questions about things as i go along. oil level sensor? the dark red cylinder on the end of the sensor is loose and flopping around. is that normal, or will i have to replace it? maybe i can snag the one off the LQ9 truck pan when i buy that.
can someone tell me more about the oil pan gasket? it is bent in a few places and the rubber has separated from the steel in a few places too. i'd replace it, but it looks to be riveted to the pan in 2 places. don't get it.
oh, and here's what it's going in.
hope to do many many more of these.
-not enough power
-too complicated
-too expensive to fix
-Vanos is knocking hard
-no potential for making easy cheap power
So, after researching, I've decided to go with a truck/SUV style motor due to price and availability over the more popular aluminum candidates. I like the idea of higher compression for NA application, so I will be going with an LQ9 (6.0 iron block, aluminum heads). seems that they are most readily available in 2002-2006 Escalade, so i'm searching for one now. tranny will be T56--anyone have any recommendations as to where to look for one besides car-part.com? maybe LS1Tech?
i have my eye on a local LQ9 from LKQ, but they want a $350 core charge. i obviously have no motor to give them to avoid that. for those of you who used LKQ, did you pay this charge?
i will be fabricating my own exhaust and mounts. will use Camaro SS manifolds and adapt them to the OEM exhaust, like rao did.
i have no clue where to start off with wiring. all i know is that i'll need the Escalade PCM (or can i use any fbody PCM?), and the harness. i'm stupid when it comes to electronics.
picked up a few parts to kick things off.
came off a 1998 Trans Am (guy upgraded to a F.A.S.T. or something)
it came with a drive by cable throttle body--i will probably have to use a drive by wire depending on the PCM i end up using. not sure yet, i guess it's based on compatibility/ease.
i'm in the process of cleaning the oil pan. this is "before". it sat for a long time. came off a 98-02 F body. not sure if it'll fit, with the crossmember, but i guess i can always modify it. (i have access to a full fabrication/sheetmetal shop at work). it was a good deal so i couldn't turn it down.
removed the baffle for cleaning...see anything unusual besides the dirt?
this is my first time inside one of these motors, so i will have questions about things as i go along. oil level sensor? the dark red cylinder on the end of the sensor is loose and flopping around. is that normal, or will i have to replace it? maybe i can snag the one off the LQ9 truck pan when i buy that.
can someone tell me more about the oil pan gasket? it is bent in a few places and the rubber has separated from the steel in a few places too. i'd replace it, but it looks to be riveted to the pan in 2 places. don't get it.
oh, and here's what it's going in.
hope to do many many more of these.
08-16-2012, 09:15 AM
#2
Found a motor just an hour away last night. Drove out there to inspect it-6.0L block, Al heads, no problems. Turned over by hand.
Came out of a 2003 Chevy Express van. 134K. The seller drove the van before pulling the motor, but I plan on running it on the engine stand before tearing apart the top end.
Includes whole motor, PCM, entire engine wiring harness, truck intake and pan and all truck accessories (of which I can hopefully sell most of them to recoup some costs), intake, maf, throttle body, all for a pretty good deal (not to mention delivered to my garage!)
She definitely needs cleaning up but I'm happy with it for what I paid. It's being delivered today. I need to buy a stand/crane asap.
Came out of a 2003 Chevy Express van. 134K. The seller drove the van before pulling the motor, but I plan on running it on the engine stand before tearing apart the top end.
Includes whole motor, PCM, entire engine wiring harness, truck intake and pan and all truck accessories (of which I can hopefully sell most of them to recoup some costs), intake, maf, throttle body, all for a pretty good deal (not to mention delivered to my garage!)
She definitely needs cleaning up but I'm happy with it for what I paid. It's being delivered today. I need to buy a stand/crane asap.
08-16-2012, 09:16 AM
#3
Got the motor in finally. I had the seller deliver it and bring his crane to unload it, and to hook it up to my engine stand. I unfortunately bought the wrong length bolts for the engine stand – to – block, so for now it's sitting on a tire.
Began by removing the wiring harness (which is uncut except for the "body harness"), which should be useless to me (Chevy Van specific). Bagged and tagged everything that was plugged in-the rest I'll have to chase down and find out what it does. I'm terrible with wiring diagrams, so I guess now's the time to learn. The PCM has the "green/blue" connectors….from what I had read on LS1tech, this will play a part in tuning later on.
Then started pulling off all the accessories off the front. What an easy engine to work on!!! All bolts are either 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, or 15mm. this means I can have 4 sockets/wrenches on my rolling stool and not have to go back to the toolbox over and over again. Awesome design. Pardon the terrible work area-this is in the garage in my new apartment, I'm in the process of moving right now, so my main tool chest, benches, etc are all still back at the old place. I can't wait to bring over my welder….there are 3 broken exhaust manifold studs on the heads that need to be removed, approximately .75" above the surface of the head (yay!). I'll tack a few nuts on and pull them out.
Started cleaning the heads. They really do shine up nicely, but I have a long way to go. The block paint is peeling and rusty in places, so I will be wire-wheeling it down and painting it high temp black.
Pulled the left valve cover for fun. Looks pretty clean for 134K.
Threw the manifold on for fun.
The E39 "Fritz" watching me work….my girlfriend named him that (she wanted a strong German name). She always said "he's on the fritz" when the cooling system and crap was going wrong. We named her B7 A4 "Gretchen".
.
Began by removing the wiring harness (which is uncut except for the "body harness"), which should be useless to me (Chevy Van specific). Bagged and tagged everything that was plugged in-the rest I'll have to chase down and find out what it does. I'm terrible with wiring diagrams, so I guess now's the time to learn. The PCM has the "green/blue" connectors….from what I had read on LS1tech, this will play a part in tuning later on.
Then started pulling off all the accessories off the front. What an easy engine to work on!!! All bolts are either 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, or 15mm. this means I can have 4 sockets/wrenches on my rolling stool and not have to go back to the toolbox over and over again. Awesome design. Pardon the terrible work area-this is in the garage in my new apartment, I'm in the process of moving right now, so my main tool chest, benches, etc are all still back at the old place. I can't wait to bring over my welder….there are 3 broken exhaust manifold studs on the heads that need to be removed, approximately .75" above the surface of the head (yay!). I'll tack a few nuts on and pull them out.
Started cleaning the heads. They really do shine up nicely, but I have a long way to go. The block paint is peeling and rusty in places, so I will be wire-wheeling it down and painting it high temp black.
Pulled the left valve cover for fun. Looks pretty clean for 134K.
Threw the manifold on for fun.
The E39 "Fritz" watching me work….my girlfriend named him that (she wanted a strong German name). She always said "he's on the fritz" when the cooling system and crap was going wrong. We named her B7 A4 "Gretchen".
.
08-16-2012, 11:56 AM
#7
What do you mean "beware of too much cam"? you mean going with such an aggressive grind that it barely idles?
Plans are to use a stock LS1 or LS6 cam for now on the cheap (used obviously). I WAS going to go with a nice lopey aftermarket common cam (228R?) but after looking at options, and realizing I'd need springs, pushrods, etc etc, I opted to just go with something stockish for now.
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08-20-2012, 11:19 AM
#8
Bit of progress this weekend. No pics, I spent all of Saturday moving to my new apartment in North Buffalo so my camera is buried somewhere.
Big thumbs up to Mike93 for letting me borrow his engine hoist. Works like a charm.
Got the garage itself closer to where I want it—air compressor mounted, bench in place, lights installed, power strips/electrical, the usual. Started to disassemble the motor a bit more on Sunday but my Craftsman Air ratchet took a dump on me. I have a pile of tools I need to have warrantied by them next time I go in.
Got the engine mounted on the stand
Pulled off both motor mounts
Removed 3 broken exhaust manifold studs via welding a nut on method (1 broken stud still remains. It’s 2mm below the head surface. I’ll have this done professionally as I don’t want to screw it up).
Pulled all 8 plugs, they are original and didn’t look too bad.
Cleaned up the heads with a razor blade
Tried to remove the crank pulley bolt with my impact gun, didn’t even budge. Those things have to be insanely tight.
I plan on having the heads off by the end of the week. Would like to have them cleaned and milled .030” to bring compression back up to around 10:1 or so. I’ve read that the 317 heads are very similar to LS6 heads, minus having a larger combustion chamber. Rather than buy new higher comp heads, I want to just mill them to reduce the size of the combustion chamber (to 66cc). Have also read that usually .006” material removed is about 1cc of chamber volume.
My source:
http://lsx4u.com/lsxinfo/heads.html
Casting Numbers 241, 806, 853
Head: 1997+ LS1 5.7 Liter Passenger Car
Material: Aluminimum
Part Number:
12559806 (1997-98) Chambers = 69cc
12559853 (1999-00)
12564241 (2000-03)
Combustion Chamber Volume: 66.67cc
Casting Number 317, 035
Head: 2001+ LQ4 and LQ9 6.0 Liter Truck
Material: Aluminimum
Part Number:
12562317 -LQ4
12572317 -LQ9
12572035 -LQ9
Combustion Chamber Volume: 71.06cc
Compression Ratio: 10:1 LQ9 Flat top pistons
Compression Ratio: 9.6:1 LQ4 Dish piston
Intake Port Volume: 210cc
Exhaust Port Volume: 75cc
Intake Valve Diameter: 2.00 inches
Exhaust Valve Diameter: 1.55 inches
So, I know how much I need to mill to go from 317 head (71.06cc) to 241 head volume (66.67cc), but how do I calculate compression ratio from that?
I guess the other option would be to buy 241 heads or 243 heads and sell the 317s, but who knows if 317s are a hot commodity.
Anyone recommend a good machine shop that can do this? I read online that TSP does this service for $75, but they aren’t local.
Big thumbs up to Mike93 for letting me borrow his engine hoist. Works like a charm.
Got the garage itself closer to where I want it—air compressor mounted, bench in place, lights installed, power strips/electrical, the usual. Started to disassemble the motor a bit more on Sunday but my Craftsman Air ratchet took a dump on me. I have a pile of tools I need to have warrantied by them next time I go in.
Got the engine mounted on the stand
Pulled off both motor mounts
Removed 3 broken exhaust manifold studs via welding a nut on method (1 broken stud still remains. It’s 2mm below the head surface. I’ll have this done professionally as I don’t want to screw it up).
Pulled all 8 plugs, they are original and didn’t look too bad.
Cleaned up the heads with a razor blade
Tried to remove the crank pulley bolt with my impact gun, didn’t even budge. Those things have to be insanely tight.
I plan on having the heads off by the end of the week. Would like to have them cleaned and milled .030” to bring compression back up to around 10:1 or so. I’ve read that the 317 heads are very similar to LS6 heads, minus having a larger combustion chamber. Rather than buy new higher comp heads, I want to just mill them to reduce the size of the combustion chamber (to 66cc). Have also read that usually .006” material removed is about 1cc of chamber volume.
My source:
http://lsx4u.com/lsxinfo/heads.html
Casting Numbers 241, 806, 853
Head: 1997+ LS1 5.7 Liter Passenger Car
Material: Aluminimum
Part Number:
12559806 (1997-98) Chambers = 69cc
12559853 (1999-00)
12564241 (2000-03)
Combustion Chamber Volume: 66.67cc
Casting Number 317, 035
Head: 2001+ LQ4 and LQ9 6.0 Liter Truck
Material: Aluminimum
Part Number:
12562317 -LQ4
12572317 -LQ9
12572035 -LQ9
Combustion Chamber Volume: 71.06cc
Compression Ratio: 10:1 LQ9 Flat top pistons
Compression Ratio: 9.6:1 LQ4 Dish piston
Intake Port Volume: 210cc
Exhaust Port Volume: 75cc
Intake Valve Diameter: 2.00 inches
Exhaust Valve Diameter: 1.55 inches
So, I know how much I need to mill to go from 317 head (71.06cc) to 241 head volume (66.67cc), but how do I calculate compression ratio from that?
I guess the other option would be to buy 241 heads or 243 heads and sell the 317s, but who knows if 317s are a hot commodity.
Anyone recommend a good machine shop that can do this? I read online that TSP does this service for $75, but they aren’t local.
08-21-2012, 07:20 AM
#10
Spent most of yesterday after work moving things to the new house and unpacking. I really hate moving, because you do so many little things, and it doesn’t look like much…
Pulled the truck oil pan, baffle, and pickup tube off, scraped the block surface with a razorblade
Pulled the valve covers on each head and removed all 16 rockers, pushrods, and rocker bolts, bagged and tagged everything
I realize how crappy my pictures are coming out, I need to bring my good camera over.
Pile of stock parts continues to grow.
My workspace (work in progress in itself)
Pulled the truck oil pan, baffle, and pickup tube off, scraped the block surface with a razorblade
Pulled the valve covers on each head and removed all 16 rockers, pushrods, and rocker bolts, bagged and tagged everything
I realize how crappy my pictures are coming out, I need to bring my good camera over.
Pile of stock parts continues to grow.
My workspace (work in progress in itself)
08-31-2012, 11:31 AM
#12
no pics yet, have to upload them, but recent updates:
welded a 3" QTP Y pipe in the exhaust system, now the M62 screams, love the sound. This is probably my 4th exhaust configuration on this car
removed the middle valley pan, need a new gasket for that
removed the heads on the LQ4. 10 long bolts, 5 short bolts per side. Need to buy ARP head bolts and new headgaskets. Any recommendations on headgaskets?
Removed the front crank pulley with a puller from Vatozone, need to buy a new bolt for that. Removed front cover (need a new gasket), timing set (chain was pretty floppy, vids to follow, need to buy a new LS2 set) and oil pump, followed by cam plate and cam itself.
Found a low mileage (16K) LS2 cam out of an 05 C6 Vette on LS1Tech…$90 shipped, I thought it was a good deal. That will be installed as soon as it arrives since I don’t need anything to accompany it.
Stock Cam Specs:
LQ4: 196/207 .467 .479
LS2: 204/211 .525 .525
I’ll try to upload pics of all of the above when I get a chance. My girlfriend is taking me on a surprise 3 day trip for my birthday so I’ll be away from the computer for a bit.
welded a 3" QTP Y pipe in the exhaust system, now the M62 screams, love the sound. This is probably my 4th exhaust configuration on this car
removed the middle valley pan, need a new gasket for that
removed the heads on the LQ4. 10 long bolts, 5 short bolts per side. Need to buy ARP head bolts and new headgaskets. Any recommendations on headgaskets?
Removed the front crank pulley with a puller from Vatozone, need to buy a new bolt for that. Removed front cover (need a new gasket), timing set (chain was pretty floppy, vids to follow, need to buy a new LS2 set) and oil pump, followed by cam plate and cam itself.
Found a low mileage (16K) LS2 cam out of an 05 C6 Vette on LS1Tech…$90 shipped, I thought it was a good deal. That will be installed as soon as it arrives since I don’t need anything to accompany it.
Stock Cam Specs:
LQ4: 196/207 .467 .479
LS2: 204/211 .525 .525
I’ll try to upload pics of all of the above when I get a chance. My girlfriend is taking me on a surprise 3 day trip for my birthday so I’ll be away from the computer for a bit.
09-27-2012, 08:11 PM
#13
haven't updated in a bit...waiting on parts to come in
went to the dyno with a friend...made 282 whp, 302 tq. M60 Manifold, cone filter, open cutout before the Y-res, and 3.15 open diff.
made some purdy sounds while on the rollers
best friend's El Tee Juan T/A put down 325whp/355tq. f*ck yeah 'Merica
scrubbed the heads, got more gunk off them. need to find a machine shop to mill them for me.
wirewheeled the valve covers. before and after.
installed LS2 cam. installed timing set (new HD LS2 stuff) and oil pump. timing this thing was.........too easy...felt like i was doing something wrong as there were like 3 steps.
went to the dyno with a friend...made 282 whp, 302 tq. M60 Manifold, cone filter, open cutout before the Y-res, and 3.15 open diff.
made some purdy sounds while on the rollers
best friend's El Tee Juan T/A put down 325whp/355tq. f*ck yeah 'Merica
scrubbed the heads, got more gunk off them. need to find a machine shop to mill them for me.
wirewheeled the valve covers. before and after.
installed LS2 cam. installed timing set (new HD LS2 stuff) and oil pump. timing this thing was.........too easy...felt like i was doing something wrong as there were like 3 steps.
09-27-2012, 09:24 PM
#14
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Great project! Im so jealous, I got a 1991 850i thats got that big'ol (useless)
V12 that I would love to swap in a LS motor in....
BTW- Those M-Pars look killer on that BMur......
V12 that I would love to swap in a LS motor in....
BTW- Those M-Pars look killer on that BMur......
09-28-2012, 07:16 AM
#15
thanks! i LOVE the m-pars, despite being replicas they look very nice and are in perfect shape, I don't ever intend to get rid of them. Wish they were a bit wider though.
E31 850i is a GORGEOUS car, love the motor too (for the class and elegance).
Thanks for the kind words, input always welcome
E31 850i is a GORGEOUS car, love the motor too (for the class and elegance).
Thanks for the kind words, input always welcome
10-15-2012, 07:46 AM
#16
Been busy with little bullshit. Working on friends cars, etc. My biggest hurdle is having a 2nd car right now, so that I can pull the motor from the BMW. I have my eye on a nice automatic ‘98 Legacy Outback Limited with heated leather. I have been spoiled by the creature comforts of the E39.
LS6 Yellow valve springs came in. Need to put these on the heads.
Sold my winter wheels to a guy in Rochester, was a nice relaxing drive.
Put my fiancee’s cat in the oven, she was a fan of that.
So back to the automotive portion of things…
My friend let me test fit his Style 65s. super wide and lots of rubbing.
Made good use out of the old stock LQ4 Van cam.
Beginning to clean up the block better. After some wirewheeling.
LS6 Yellow valve springs came in. Need to put these on the heads.
Sold my winter wheels to a guy in Rochester, was a nice relaxing drive.
Put my fiancee’s cat in the oven, she was a fan of that.
So back to the automotive portion of things…
My friend let me test fit his Style 65s. super wide and lots of rubbing.
Made good use out of the old stock LQ4 Van cam.
Beginning to clean up the block better. After some wirewheeling.
10-21-2012, 03:45 PM
#17
next important step: buy a winter vehicle so the BMW can come off the road!
2000 Subaru Outback 109K miles
2.5 Boxer 4-cyl, 5 speed, AWD
Power and heated cloth seats, heated mirrors, heated windshield
some nearly new Dunlop snow tires on it
taking the BMW off the road and registering the Suby this weekend.
2000 Subaru Outback 109K miles
2.5 Boxer 4-cyl, 5 speed, AWD
Power and heated cloth seats, heated mirrors, heated windshield
some nearly new Dunlop snow tires on it
taking the BMW off the road and registering the Suby this weekend.
10-26-2012, 07:21 AM
#18
So, my fiancée was at her class last night for 4-5 hours and I had some time to get in the garage.
Made my own valve spring compressor tool with some crap I had laying around. How it’s supposed to look:
Not pretty but worked like a charm. How mine looked:
The valves started to come out with the aid of the beer of the evening. Pardon the grinding flakes on the bottle from me making the tool
Then the tenant in the lower apartment stopped by and offered me some whiskey…
So with the springs, retainers, valves and keepers removed from the heads, they’re ready to go to the machine shop. Just need to find time.
I still had the itch to do something so I grabbed a roll of tape and half empty can of plastidip and went to town on the winter car.
Drying, peeled back the badge
So, before
And after
Made my own valve spring compressor tool with some crap I had laying around. How it’s supposed to look:
Not pretty but worked like a charm. How mine looked:
The valves started to come out with the aid of the beer of the evening. Pardon the grinding flakes on the bottle from me making the tool
Then the tenant in the lower apartment stopped by and offered me some whiskey…
So with the springs, retainers, valves and keepers removed from the heads, they’re ready to go to the machine shop. Just need to find time.
I still had the itch to do something so I grabbed a roll of tape and half empty can of plastidip and went to town on the winter car.
Drying, peeled back the badge
So, before
And after
10-28-2012, 10:04 AM
#19
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Upstate SC
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Nice Project Great project! I'm looking to do a similar swap over the next year or so. Good Luck!
BTW, How's the weather? LOL I moved to Upstate SC from Batavia 26 years ago.
LSXWON
BTW, How's the weather? LOL I moved to Upstate SC from Batavia 26 years ago.
LSXWON
10-30-2012, 07:28 AM
#20
Spent about an hour and a half last night. Tried removing the bumper cover first, and then the whole front end/core support. After breaking all the plastic clips, I realized the core support came off WITH the bumper cover still attached. So, we’ll have to reassemble that one of these days. No big deal. My front valance/foglights/brake ducting was all falling apart due to a previous shop reinstalling everything in a huge hurry. All in all, this wasn’t that difficult. Now that the front end is off, I can begin to remove and label all harness, fluid lines, to begin prepping for pulling the M62.
