LQ4/T56 into 2001 BMW 540i
04-29-2013, 02:13 PM
#201
Good job on the progress. I wish I could help you on the stock box. Part of the reason I when for stand alone was to avoid the need for figuring the stock fuse box...I am not that smart or patient 
Last edited by vazfx16; 04-29-2013 at 08:15 PM.
05-09-2013, 12:24 PM
#202
Few quick questions regarding feeding the GM PCM power and grounds. I have a fairly good idea about them but maybe someone can just confirm if I'm right.
Grounds:
The following just need a simple ground from the body, right?
BLUE 1
BLUE 40
BLUE 27
BLUE 67
BLUE 24
BLUE 64
Green 40
Green 1
12V Power:
These need KEY ON 12V+, correct?
OFF RUN CRANK VOLTAGE 12V BLUE 75
IGNITION VOLTAGE BLUE 19
These need constant 12V+ even when key is off, correct?
BATTERY POSITIVE VOLTAGE BLUE 57
BATTERY POSITIVE VOLTAGE BLUE 20
Grounds:
The following just need a simple ground from the body, right?
BLUE 1
BLUE 40
BLUE 27
BLUE 67
BLUE 24
BLUE 64
Green 40
Green 1
12V Power:
These need KEY ON 12V+, correct?
OFF RUN CRANK VOLTAGE 12V BLUE 75
IGNITION VOLTAGE BLUE 19
These need constant 12V+ even when key is off, correct?
BATTERY POSITIVE VOLTAGE BLUE 57
BATTERY POSITIVE VOLTAGE BLUE 20
Last edited by LQ4-E39; 05-09-2013 at 08:24 PM.
05-11-2013, 08:25 PM
#203
Life has been keeping me busy...someone hit my Subaru while it was parked and then ran, but i got the plate, so i've been on the phone with insurance and police trying to get it all squared away. also finally set up 3 interviews for next week, so it's been hectic to say the least.
i had a local ship set up my M5 diff and as far as i can tell it turned out well. I still have to slap the cover on and install it into the car. then, measure for driveshaft...
oh, and this happened today
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iL6jl...ature=youtu.be
i had a local ship set up my M5 diff and as far as i can tell it turned out well. I still have to slap the cover on and install it into the car. then, measure for driveshaft...
oh, and this happened today
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iL6jl...ature=youtu.be
05-12-2013, 07:41 PM
#204
i swapped the truck throttle body back onto it and started it, idle still surged. unplugging the IAC made no difference. unplugging the MAF made it idle nice. I don't know whether I have a bad MAF, or it's just a rough tune. Leaning towards MAF.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgEzP...ature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgEzP...ature=youtu.be
05-13-2013, 12:57 PM
#205
NICE!
i swapped the truck throttle body back onto it and started it, idle still surged. unplugging the IAC made no difference. unplugging the MAF made it idle nice. I don't know whether I have a bad MAF, or it's just a rough tune. Leaning towards MAF.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgEzP...ature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgEzP...ature=youtu.be
05-18-2013, 02:07 PM
#206
well, i think i may have found a new issue/solution....
borrowed a scan tool and ghetto rigged an OBD2 plug. i swapped all the coils on the passenger side and kept the MAF plugged in, and it didn't throw codes for those, so i'm assuming they're good. however, i did get 2 codes:
P0343: Camshaft position sensor high input
P0650: MIL Circuit
Not worried about the 650 code since I don't have the CEL control wire hooked up to anything yet.
The 0343 code is interesting. This was a known good motor pulled out of a wrecked van, so rather than just throw a new sensor at it, I thought about what I had done to the motor to change it from "stock". Back when rebuilding it, I installed a used cam out of a 2005 LS2 Vette. Apparently the LS2 uses a cam that provides a position signal on the FRONT of the cam, to a sensor mounted on the front cover. My LQ4 is the same as all LS1s as the cam provides the signal to the sensor in the rear. Therefore, my cam is incompatible with my motor.....this could also explain why my tach is not reading correctly. Another symptom is the car not firing on the first try (extended crank period). It will only start if you open the throttle about a quarter.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ls1-motor.html
Unfortunately I don't have any pictures of the 05 Vette cam that I installed, so I can't compare it to the LQ4 cam I have in the living room.
Anyone have a stock LS1 or LS6 cam laying around?
borrowed a scan tool and ghetto rigged an OBD2 plug. i swapped all the coils on the passenger side and kept the MAF plugged in, and it didn't throw codes for those, so i'm assuming they're good. however, i did get 2 codes:
P0343: Camshaft position sensor high input
P0650: MIL Circuit
Not worried about the 650 code since I don't have the CEL control wire hooked up to anything yet.
The 0343 code is interesting. This was a known good motor pulled out of a wrecked van, so rather than just throw a new sensor at it, I thought about what I had done to the motor to change it from "stock". Back when rebuilding it, I installed a used cam out of a 2005 LS2 Vette. Apparently the LS2 uses a cam that provides a position signal on the FRONT of the cam, to a sensor mounted on the front cover. My LQ4 is the same as all LS1s as the cam provides the signal to the sensor in the rear. Therefore, my cam is incompatible with my motor.....this could also explain why my tach is not reading correctly. Another symptom is the car not firing on the first try (extended crank period). It will only start if you open the throttle about a quarter.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ls1-motor.html
Unfortunately I don't have any pictures of the 05 Vette cam that I installed, so I can't compare it to the LQ4 cam I have in the living room.
Anyone have a stock LS1 or LS6 cam laying around?
05-22-2013, 11:25 AM
#207
Been caught up with little crap lately, no time to work on my own damn car. Between interviews, a job offer (happy about that), and doing brake/suspension work on my mom's and sister's car, no free time...
Luckily I did have the opportunity to drop off some stuff at various places and get it worked on.
Diff is all set up, sealed, filled with fluid, and installed
I also sealed up the shifter assembly, and this is the final height. If I decide it's too high for my comfort the rod comes off with 2 bolts, chop to desired length, recut threads for ****, done. I could also just cut a section out and reweld the halves, but it's easier to cut threads since my welder sucks.
Tackled my misfire/rough idle issue last week, grabbed a coil pack set and a few other misc items off this Tahoe.
Removed the LS2 cam in about 3 hours, here it is, missing the timing reluctor that is causing my issues. No mishaps other than dropping 2 cam gear bolts into the pan...luckily, the pan is able to be dropped a few inches before it hits the subframe, so fishing them out wasn't tough. I took this as a sign that I had to change the oil anyhow....
Fleet Pride took care of the driveshaft. Front BMW 3-bolt guibo style end cut off, shortened to correct length, and 1330 U-joint/slip joke welded on. Runout was indicated as .005" or less.
Throw that sucker in, fits like a glove. It's really interesting how much BMW offsets the nose of the diff off to the driver's side (probably to keep an even load on the u-joints and reduce wear, and so that it centers up under load).
My garage is so filthy that it's almost not able to be worked in...time for a cleanup.
Luckily I did have the opportunity to drop off some stuff at various places and get it worked on.
Diff is all set up, sealed, filled with fluid, and installed
I also sealed up the shifter assembly, and this is the final height. If I decide it's too high for my comfort the rod comes off with 2 bolts, chop to desired length, recut threads for ****, done. I could also just cut a section out and reweld the halves, but it's easier to cut threads since my welder sucks.
Tackled my misfire/rough idle issue last week, grabbed a coil pack set and a few other misc items off this Tahoe.
Removed the LS2 cam in about 3 hours, here it is, missing the timing reluctor that is causing my issues. No mishaps other than dropping 2 cam gear bolts into the pan...luckily, the pan is able to be dropped a few inches before it hits the subframe, so fishing them out wasn't tough. I took this as a sign that I had to change the oil anyhow....
Fleet Pride took care of the driveshaft. Front BMW 3-bolt guibo style end cut off, shortened to correct length, and 1330 U-joint/slip joke welded on. Runout was indicated as .005" or less.
Throw that sucker in, fits like a glove. It's really interesting how much BMW offsets the nose of the diff off to the driver's side (probably to keep an even load on the u-joints and reduce wear, and so that it centers up under load).
My garage is so filthy that it's almost not able to be worked in...time for a cleanup.
05-22-2013, 11:57 AM
#209
I didn’t test it before installing. All the clutches and plates are stock, but they are brand new. Literally EVERYTHING is brand new in that diff: bearings, seals, clutches, even the R&P is from a newer, lower mileage M3. More built for reliability than drifter shenanigans.
05-22-2013, 09:06 PM
#210
That is very cool!!!!!
On the differ, that is great. That's what I am planning now. The diff guy said it would save me a bunch of dough. He estimated around $200-$300..I have not gone to drop the pieces off yet.
If you don't mind, what was the price range of your diff work.
Heck, you are about ready to go?
How did you measure for your diff?
I was told put the slip yoke into the trans and measure from the center of its universal joint pivot to the center of the that holds on the center support bearing. Does that sound right?
On the differ, that is great. That's what I am planning now. The diff guy said it would save me a bunch of dough. He estimated around $200-$300..I have not gone to drop the pieces off yet.
If you don't mind, what was the price range of your diff work.
Heck, you are about ready to go?
How did you measure for your diff?
I was told put the slip yoke into the trans and measure from the center of its universal joint pivot to the center of the that holds on the center support bearing. Does that sound right?
Last edited by vazfx16; 05-22-2013 at 09:21 PM.
05-23-2013, 07:42 PM
#211
That is very cool!!!!!
On the differ, that is great. That's what I am planning now. The diff guy said it would save me a bunch of dough. He estimated around $200-$300..I have not gone to drop the pieces off yet.
If you don't mind, what was the price range of your diff work.
Heck, you are about ready to go?
How did you measure for your diff?
I was told put the slip yoke into the trans and measure from the center of its universal joint pivot to the center of the that holds on the center support bearing. Does that sound right?
On the differ, that is great. That's what I am planning now. The diff guy said it would save me a bunch of dough. He estimated around $200-$300..I have not gone to drop the pieces off yet.
If you don't mind, what was the price range of your diff work.
Heck, you are about ready to go?
How did you measure for your diff?
I was told put the slip yoke into the trans and measure from the center of its universal joint pivot to the center of the that holds on the center support bearing. Does that sound right?
yes, i measured from the centerline of the front u-joint/slip yoke to the centerline of the center support bearing and it fits well. I have yet to drive it.
can't seem to get this POS running right.
finished up swapping in the Z06 cam (which has the reluctor) and still have the same issues are before. occasional hiccup/stumble at idle, high idle with MAF plugged in, passenger cat faintly glowing red when the car has been idling and revving for a while. as soon as I unplug the MAF, the idle settles pretty well, but still stays at about 1100rpm. If i rev the motor with MAF unplugged, it comes back down to a normal idle. Unplugging the IAC has no effect on anything.
I'm wondering if i have a vacuum leak, or if one of my cats is plugged. at this point i'm not sure how to diagnose it since it's not throwing any codes on my scanner. i have tried spraying carb cleaner around the usual areas to check for vacuum leak but have not found anything.
05-25-2013, 09:56 AM
#212
Thanks for the info.
On the running, I would start with a vacuum leak search. You know, start from simplest to most complex.
When trouble shooting I usually draw up a mind map to help keep me on track. Basically a flow chart that illustrates the issue and its potential causes. The issue maybe in the center with branches coming out that illustrate (say) what the potential cause might be. I order the potential cause from simplest to most complex. I then check each one and then cross it off the diagram, as I prove it is or is not the cause.
I tell you this has helped me solve some mind binding problems. It keeps you from going in circles and getting frustrated. It gives you something solid and visual to focus on.
Example of a mind map that helped solve a sensor problem:
There are free apps out there for this. You can also draw it by hand. Search and see if there's an app you like. Here is one, but I have never used this particular one: http://www.smartdraw.com/specials/pp....htm?id=127438
I usually draw it by hand for the sake of speed and simplicity.
I hope this is helpful...you are almost there
On the running, I would start with a vacuum leak search. You know, start from simplest to most complex.
When trouble shooting I usually draw up a mind map to help keep me on track. Basically a flow chart that illustrates the issue and its potential causes. The issue maybe in the center with branches coming out that illustrate (say) what the potential cause might be. I order the potential cause from simplest to most complex. I then check each one and then cross it off the diagram, as I prove it is or is not the cause.
I tell you this has helped me solve some mind binding problems. It keeps you from going in circles and getting frustrated. It gives you something solid and visual to focus on.
Example of a mind map that helped solve a sensor problem:
There are free apps out there for this. You can also draw it by hand. Search and see if there's an app you like. Here is one, but I have never used this particular one: http://www.smartdraw.com/specials/pp....htm?id=127438
I usually draw it by hand for the sake of speed and simplicity.
I hope this is helpful...you are almost there
Last edited by vazfx16; 05-28-2013 at 11:58 AM.
05-29-2013, 07:14 AM
#213
The last week along with the upcoming week is time for wrap up…I have the cluster nearly wrapped up (coolant gauge is working, very happy about that). I still have to find out where the pins are to trigger the CEL so I can tie into them, but that can wait a little while. What’s left:
Bumper trim, fasteners, fender liners
Hood, wipers, all underhood plastic trim
Loom the wiring harness under the hood, make the e-box look pretty
Reassemble the interior
Possibly put a heat shield under the shifter hole if I have time. The rod gets fairly hot due to the location of the cats.
Insurance is on the car. I can’t find the title though, so re-registering will be a pain unless I can find it tonight.
Tuning appointment is made for Saturday. I had a friend come over with HPTuners and play with the IAC counts, that’s what was causing the 2200rpm idle. I will let the tuner know to look at that first.
Bumper trim, fasteners, fender liners
Hood, wipers, all underhood plastic trim
Loom the wiring harness under the hood, make the e-box look pretty
Reassemble the interior
Possibly put a heat shield under the shifter hole if I have time. The rod gets fairly hot due to the location of the cats.
Insurance is on the car. I can’t find the title though, so re-registering will be a pain unless I can find it tonight.
Tuning appointment is made for Saturday. I had a friend come over with HPTuners and play with the IAC counts, that’s what was causing the 2200rpm idle. I will let the tuner know to look at that first.
05-31-2013, 07:29 AM
#216
Well, it’s been a busy rollercoaster of a week.
Went out and did some rolling shots of my winter beater with friends.
Then, on the way to Pennsylvania (2 hour drive one way) for work at 5am, this happened:
I was able to limp it home for an hour driving like this:
The car has already been deemed a total loss, but 100% of the damage is cosmetic, and the car runs great. I will be buying it back and fixing it. Not sure if I’ll sell it for a nicer beater yet.
But, on the bright side, this happened:
Went out and did some rolling shots of my winter beater with friends.
Then, on the way to Pennsylvania (2 hour drive one way) for work at 5am, this happened:
I was able to limp it home for an hour driving like this:
The car has already been deemed a total loss, but 100% of the damage is cosmetic, and the car runs great. I will be buying it back and fixing it. Not sure if I’ll sell it for a nicer beater yet.
But, on the bright side, this happened:
05-31-2013, 09:35 AM
#217
Launching!
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Huntersville NC
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You're lucky the deer didn't come through the windshield. Did it hit the front fender and then go into the windshield? I haven't hit one yet, although I've tried a couple of times.
Awesome shots of the BMW. How'd it run?
Awesome shots of the BMW. How'd it run?
05-31-2013, 09:40 AM
#218
BMW still needs breaking in…rear diff and clutch are both new, so they need time. It is also still idling at 2200 due to the tune, so it’s difficult to get moving smoothly, and shifts are tough because it hangs. I’m hoping to have that resolved tomorrow morning. From the few times I beat it the power was very smooth and linear, and kept growing with revs. My tach isn’t accurate so I don’t know what it’s turning at, but I couldn’t have taken it past 3500.
