LQ4/T56 into 2001 BMW 540i
#221
i am trying to figure out my idle issues before tuning tomorrow.
background: http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...6-in-a-BMW-540
TPS reads 4.98V with key on and engine off. surely this is wrong.
i am also getting 89%TPS at Key on engine off with my foot off the gas.
TPS drops to 31% with foot to the floor.
i am hoping i just have a few TPS wires backwards.
background: http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...6-in-a-BMW-540
TPS reads 4.98V with key on and engine off. surely this is wrong.
i am also getting 89%TPS at Key on engine off with my foot off the gas.
TPS drops to 31% with foot to the floor.
i am hoping i just have a few TPS wires backwards.
#225
soon soon...
i thought about the logic of my idle problem and looked at the pinout again. signal, low reference, and 5V reference. i swapped the 5V reference and low reference and the inverse problem was solved. now had 6% to 60% from no throttle to WOT, which was good, but the range was not big enough. even after recalibrating (reset) the TPS and making sure everything was connected correctly, still had 60% at WOT. turns out the Express Van TB has what seems like a thicker cast aluminum stop for WOT, so i machined down that stop little by little until we were getting better readings. final result was about 4% to 95%, and started tuning from there.
made 370whp/374tq
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the ice didn't do **** on a nylon manifold but why not try.
#227
elbow is a silicone 90 reducer, 4" to 3.5" from eBay Racing. I had to add a strip of rubber around the MAF flange to get it to meet the diameters correctly since the Van MAF is designed to clip into a plastic coupler in the stock intake. the pipe is just some 3" stainless i had laying around from previous exhaust projects. it's probably a restriction but there's always room for a 4" aluminum unit down the road
#228
Nice!
You project is the bomb. Now I definitely have motivation. I think I will try to get my driveshaft done this week. Time to get serious.
You project is the bomb. Now I definitely have motivation. I think I will try to get my driveshaft done this week. Time to get serious.
elbow is a silicone 90 reducer, 4" to 3.5" from eBay Racing. I had to add a strip of rubber around the MAF flange to get it to meet the diameters correctly since the Van MAF is designed to clip into a plastic coupler in the stock intake. the pipe is just some 3" stainless i had laying around from previous exhaust projects. it's probably a restriction but there's always room for a 4" aluminum unit down the road
#230
i don't even know what those put down stock. i'm sure they could give me a run for my money though. nothing compares to the sound of the S62, but nothing also compares to the maintenance and repair costs. i will admit that i will never miss having to order nearly every part online to repair the 540i motor. part of the reasoning for the swap was the ability to buy a belt/pump/alternator/anything at any hillbilly auto parts store...cutting myself free of the BMW maintenance nightmare
#231
... I will admit that i will never miss having to order nearly every part online to repair the 540i motor. Part of the reasoning for the swap was the ability to buy a belt/pump/alternator/anything at any hillbilly auto parts store...cutting myself free of the bmw maintenance nightmare
#232
TECH Resident
Join Date: Oct 2009
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#234
a bit over 1000 miles on the swap and had my first "troubles"...
on the way back from a Color me Rad 5k, a severe misfire started occuring with the smell of raw gas making its way into the cabin, even at speed. thought i had dropped a plug wire or a coil, but they were all firing as verified on the side of the road. limped the sucker home, really could have been worse, but the car got me home from 60 miles away, so I can't complain. turns out the injector signal wire for cyl. #7 was grounding out on the fuel rail, causing it to run WIDE OPEN, all the time. at one point i had liquid fuel dripping out of the exhaust. reinsulated the wire, unplugged battery to try to reset the fuel trims, and after an initially rough idle as the fuel cleared out of the exhaust, all was well.
while diagnosing the fuel issue, i also went through multiple startup/shutdown cycles. during one startup the starter began SCREAMING, literally gear on gear noise. i thought my flywheel was toast due to the teeth being chewed up, but it was fine. Pulled the starter (which I bought used over on LS1Tech with low miles) and found this. Yeah, that'll cause some noise due to tooth misalignment...
Replaced it with a reman'd unit that actually turned out to be defective as well (bad solenoid), but starter #3 did the trick and the car is up and running again.
The replacement is OEM for a 2003 Express Van, and is the "later style", with a much thicker mounting boss for the inboard bolt (the area where my thumb is in the picture is where the added material is located).
on the way back from a Color me Rad 5k, a severe misfire started occuring with the smell of raw gas making its way into the cabin, even at speed. thought i had dropped a plug wire or a coil, but they were all firing as verified on the side of the road. limped the sucker home, really could have been worse, but the car got me home from 60 miles away, so I can't complain. turns out the injector signal wire for cyl. #7 was grounding out on the fuel rail, causing it to run WIDE OPEN, all the time. at one point i had liquid fuel dripping out of the exhaust. reinsulated the wire, unplugged battery to try to reset the fuel trims, and after an initially rough idle as the fuel cleared out of the exhaust, all was well.
while diagnosing the fuel issue, i also went through multiple startup/shutdown cycles. during one startup the starter began SCREAMING, literally gear on gear noise. i thought my flywheel was toast due to the teeth being chewed up, but it was fine. Pulled the starter (which I bought used over on LS1Tech with low miles) and found this. Yeah, that'll cause some noise due to tooth misalignment...
Replaced it with a reman'd unit that actually turned out to be defective as well (bad solenoid), but starter #3 did the trick and the car is up and running again.
The replacement is OEM for a 2003 Express Van, and is the "later style", with a much thicker mounting boss for the inboard bolt (the area where my thumb is in the picture is where the added material is located).
#235
Don't forget to change you oil since it was contaminated with fuel
#237
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1974363
http://www.lt1swap.com/2004vortec_pcm.htm
Lots of info out there, gotta search
http://www.lt1swap.com/2004vortec_pcm.htm
Lots of info out there, gotta search
#238
#239
Quick question: What fuel pump are you running? I am hearing bad this about Walbro pumps. This like they fail frequently?
I have a fresh pump in my E34 V8...just thinking out loud. Do you think it can support the LS1?
I have a fresh pump in my E34 V8...just thinking out loud. Do you think it can support the LS1?