ad53030

Ok, so I've read a ton and basically see everybody does it their own way. Trying to do this as inexpensively as possible, can upgrade later. I want to mount my motor as low and far back as possible.

Thinking Autokraft pan. Lowest price I'm seeing with no steering issues or cross-member interference. Want to drive the car hard, do not want reduced oil capacity (Modded F Body Pan), still want ground clearance (No H3 Pan). Any other suggestions?

I've read Hooker headers and mounts move the engine very close to the firewall.

Non-factory A/C car so no issue there. Will prob do a VA kit. I DO want to mount my a/c compressor low and can notch the sub-frame for additional clearance (BRP kit). I've seen a member's custom a/c brackets that move the compressor up and run it off of the main drive belt. Question is can I run set the motor back and still mount the compressor low?

Can i run Dynatech headers with the hooker set-back adapter plates?

I've read a lot of threads, been over Tsnow & Bandit & many others' threads. Trying to do my homework before asking. Need some advice here.

Another factor is I don't want to overdo primary size (Stock LS2 cam only).

Please help.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

Let me preface this reply by saying that even after giving folks the following info, they end up with the wrong plates, fitment problems, etc.
I am going to tell you that with the following parts, everything will fit exactly as indicated.
Obviously, there are other brands of adapters, headers, which have worked just fine.
I used Hooker plates #12611-HKR & Hooker ceramic headers #2288-1HKR (or, you can order the stainless version). The Hooker adapter plates put the engine in the stock SBC location, according to Hooker. I agree.
With these, I was able to reuse my stock 1998 oilpan, without modification.
For the engine mounts...I used Energy Suspension poly mounts 3.1114G.
They come with a metal backing plate (which I didn't use). Other people who used these mounts, say that the engine would not lower & fit properly between the engine stands, if the metal backing plates were used. So, they didn't use the metal plates, either.
The metal backing plate is of such a shape, that even if you used them, I don't believe that they would conform properly to the Hooker motor mount plates.
As a result of not using the backing plates, the engine will sit a bit lower than Hooker had intended. And, as a result, the alternator (if you have the driver's side/low mounted alternator) bottom bolt will have to be shaved/ground (I used a grinding wheel), to clear the crossmember.
So, this is your choice.
Personally, I'm happy to have the engine sit a bit lower for weight distribution.
The Hooker headers clear the steering box, & everything else, perfectly.
My build thread has some photos.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

OK, I'm tired.
But this site is going downhill.
Right after posting, there is a pop-up, with guitar, the Kardashians, Facetramp, & Gillette products...and the ad won't let me out, without clicking on it.

ad53030

Very nice car. The blue is sharp. Sorry you've had to deal with a lot of B.S. Don't know if you've got it back together yet, but if not i hope you do soon.

The stock 98 F-Body pan cleared cross-member and steering? What kind of clearance on each? I plan to do the 3rd Gen Camaro Steering box as well. I'm planning on a GTO LS2, no reason I shouldn't be able to swap on an F-Body pan and pickup right? This will save a lot of $. I have no problem with grinding the alternator for clearance. I want to run a/c too (asap-Texas heat), and plan to notch the pass side sub-frame and hopefully make some custom brackets to move the compressor forward and run it off the main drive belt. Main reason is that I want to keep the weight as low as possible for a low center of gravity.

Looked at your pics on your thread. Any chance you have a pic of your header clearance under the car?

And as for the ads. I don't know what to say. Pretty terrible. I can't stand the ones that are posted right over the thread so you can read peoples' responses, and you can't close them. i guess LS1tech really wants those advertising dollars.

spinya

I am doing two first gen camaros right now with LS swaps in them. I just did a little moving around with the mounting plates and now have the engine sitting nice and far back as possible in the 69 so its close to the firewall AND the STOCK 5.3 LS truck engine fits with its FACTORY oil pan! Bolted right in and we are even using the tremec 5 speed bolted up with the driveshaft that was with the sbc. It can be done pretty dang cheap if you get creative. Biggest issue we have now is just headers fitting. Where in austin are you?

KY Nova

iTrader: (1)

Check Dirty Dingo brackets out. I've got the sliders and they are nice. It allows you to slide the engine forward and back to get it where YOU want it. I used ARH headers and they fit and tuck up nice.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

Thanks.
Yes, the car is back together and running fine.
The steering has perfect clearance...headers have perfect clearance, too.
I plan on doing the IROC box as well.
If you don't already have one, a front spoiler has worked wonders to stabilize the front end and vastly improve steering. It's one of the best mods I've done.
No matter what you choose for parts, best of luck with your swap!

Pic angle makes headers look lower than they are.
I just measured, and headers are exactly 2" below subframe. If you use the ES backing plates, the headers will come up 1/2".

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

One more...

MisterD

I just mocked my LS1/T-56 in my 67 camaro this weekend. Listen to Glenn's advice, those are the parts I have and it all cleared pretty well. I even got a the ATS T56 crossmember to line up perfect with the T56. Overall I had SOME difficulty getting the engine in without scratching the firewall but other than that, I like the placement of the engine to the firewall.







PM me if you have any questions about the hooker plates/fitment/etc. More than happy to help.

BTW, your steering linkage should be okay. Please note that the 67 camaro steering arm and pitman arm is shorter than the 68/69 you get from the parts stores. The 67 arm is ideal since it brings the linkage closer to the crossmember/away from the oil pan. I am also using stock F body oil pan and front accessories, FWIW... Best of luck!