2BFAST's 69 Camaro LS1/60E swap
02-25-2013, 11:33 PM
#61
...
Rod your thread on TeamCamaro is great to follow. What wiper motor did you use?
I plan to smooth from the wiper motor over and thats it. I dont want to eliminate the facotory body tag or the "X" in the drivers firewall panel.
This link from DSE is a decent panel the follows the factory seam from what I see
http://www.detroitspeed.com/1967-196...-fll-plte.html
It doesnt eliminate the blower motor hole like the link in your thread Rod but looks decent.
Just stirring up discussion on this. Lets talk
Thanks
Rod your thread on TeamCamaro is great to follow. What wiper motor did you use?
I plan to smooth from the wiper motor over and thats it. I dont want to eliminate the facotory body tag or the "X" in the drivers firewall panel.
This link from DSE is a decent panel the follows the factory seam from what I see
http://www.detroitspeed.com/1967-196...-fll-plte.html
It doesnt eliminate the blower motor hole like the link in your thread Rod but looks decent.
Just stirring up discussion on this. Lets talk
Thanks
Since your this far into it you might as well remove the front and rear glass to see if you need any additional metal work. I had to replace my dash as the previous owner was pretty good with fiberglass and bondo....
As for smoothing the firewall. For starters, it is a lot of work and you will end up smoothing a lot more than you initially plan on, or at least I did. After 40 plus years of abuse these firewalls are anything but flat.
As you know I bought a plate with a raised step in it to give it the factory look and I smoothed the entire firewall. You could easily make one yourself using 16 or 18 gauge sheet metal.
The DSE plate is pretty popular, but what I found on my firewall was is I needed to smooth more of the firewall than the DSE plate would have covered (just something to consider)
Another option is to buy the bolt in heater delete plate from DSE http://www.detroitspeed.com/1967-196...lete-plte.html Yes it is not as pretty, but there is not a lot of labor required to installing it. If I were to do another restoration I would personally consider going with this option.
Not a lot of answers, but some options to think about.
02-26-2013, 07:40 AM
#62
Thanks. I bought the wiper motor from DSE http://www.detroitspeed.com/1967-196...ecta-sped.html I believe there is now a thread on pro-touring and/or lateral-g that allows to do the same at a fraction of the cost.
Since your this far into it you might as well remove the front and rear glass to see if you need any additional metal work. I had to replace my dash as the previous owner was pretty good with fiberglass and bondo....
As for smoothing the firewall. For starters, it is a lot of work and you will end up smoothing a lot more than you initially plan on, or at least I did. After 40 plus years of abuse these firewalls are anything but flat.
As you know I bought a plate with a raised step in it to give it the factory look and I smoothed the entire firewall. You could easily make one yourself using 16 or 18 gauge sheet metal.
The DSE plate is pretty popular, but what I found on my firewall was is I needed to smooth more of the firewall than the DSE plate would have covered (just something to consider)
Another option is to buy the bolt in heater delete plate from DSE http://www.detroitspeed.com/1967-196...lete-plte.html Yes it is not as pretty, but there is not a lot of labor required to installing it. If I were to do another restoration I would personally consider going with this option.
Not a lot of answers, but some options to think about.
Since your this far into it you might as well remove the front and rear glass to see if you need any additional metal work. I had to replace my dash as the previous owner was pretty good with fiberglass and bondo....
As for smoothing the firewall. For starters, it is a lot of work and you will end up smoothing a lot more than you initially plan on, or at least I did. After 40 plus years of abuse these firewalls are anything but flat.
As you know I bought a plate with a raised step in it to give it the factory look and I smoothed the entire firewall. You could easily make one yourself using 16 or 18 gauge sheet metal.
The DSE plate is pretty popular, but what I found on my firewall was is I needed to smooth more of the firewall than the DSE plate would have covered (just something to consider)
Another option is to buy the bolt in heater delete plate from DSE http://www.detroitspeed.com/1967-196...lete-plte.html Yes it is not as pretty, but there is not a lot of labor required to installing it. If I were to do another restoration I would personally consider going with this option.
Not a lot of answers, but some options to think about.
I do plan to remove the glass but wont until it gets to the shop. Im more afraid about the doors for some reason. I have this feeling so we'll see. Whatever comes about it is what it is.
02-27-2013, 10:42 AM
#63
Now that the car is ready for body work and paint I plan to bring the subframe and rear end back home and go through them. So I am looking at suspension/steering/brake options. At this time I dont plan to go all out "pro-touring" setup but seen a kit from Classic Performance Products that looks pretty nice and has all the components I plan on doing for sure and more. Has anyone ran CPP's stuff yet?
http://www.classicperform.com/Store/.../6874PTK-3.htm
The front end isnt worn out but was replaced with factory bushings ect. I checked out pro-touring.com and lateral-g.net for reviews on CPP. It looks to me the guys that post that say its "junk" are the hardcore autox racers. But the ones that are budget minded that just want a fun cruiser are happy with their products. I will weight my options but it looks to be the kit I will be leaning towards. I might give them a call and ask a few questions.
http://www.classicperform.com/Store/.../6874PTK-3.htm
The front end isnt worn out but was replaced with factory bushings ect. I checked out pro-touring.com and lateral-g.net for reviews on CPP. It looks to me the guys that post that say its "junk" are the hardcore autox racers. But the ones that are budget minded that just want a fun cruiser are happy with their products. I will weight my options but it looks to be the kit I will be leaning towards. I might give them a call and ask a few questions.
Last edited by 2BFAST; 02-27-2013 at 12:43 PM.
02-27-2013, 10:50 AM
#64
Another option is to buy the bolt in heater delete plate from DSE http://www.detroitspeed.com/1967-196...lete-plte.html Yes it is not as pretty, but there is not a lot of labor required to installing it. If I were to do another restoration I would personally consider going with this option.
02-27-2013, 04:02 PM
#66
Now that the car is ready for body work and paint I plan to bring the subframe and rear end back home and go through them. So I am looking at suspension/steering/brake options. At this time I dont plan to go all out "pro-touring" setup but seen a kit from Classic Performance Products that looks pretty nice and has all the components I plan on doing for sure and more. Has anyone ran CPP's stuff yet?
http://www.classicperform.com/Store/.../6874PTK-3.htm
The front end isnt worn out but was replaced with factory bushings ect. I checked out pro-touring.com and lateral-g.net for reviews on CPP. It looks to me the guys that post that say its "junk" are the hardcore autox racers. But the ones that are budget minded that just want a fun cruiser are happy with their products. I will weight my options but it looks to be the kit I will be leaning towards. I might give them a call and ask a few questions.
http://www.classicperform.com/Store/.../6874PTK-3.htm
The front end isnt worn out but was replaced with factory bushings ect. I checked out pro-touring.com and lateral-g.net for reviews on CPP. It looks to me the guys that post that say its "junk" are the hardcore autox racers. But the ones that are budget minded that just want a fun cruiser are happy with their products. I will weight my options but it looks to be the kit I will be leaning towards. I might give them a call and ask a few questions.
02-27-2013, 04:21 PM
#68
If the car is just going to be a weekend cruiser the kit will probably be ok, but if you later decide to do a little more with the car you will be replacing just about everything in that setup. There are better options (Ridetech, Speedtech, SPC, etc), but all of them cost more $$. I wouldn't get in a hurry to buy anything yet as you have some time. Another option is to check the classifieds on pro-touring and lateral-g as you regularly see gently used suspension pieces for sale.
04-04-2013, 12:01 PM
#69
Update
I have the RS Conversion front end kit here along with the DSE electric motor conversion for the hideaway headlights. With that order I also go the Z/28/Pace Car stripe stencil kit to get the stripes laid out when it gets painted as well as a front sheet metal fastener and bolt kit. Nothing wrong with the old bolts but they are all old and dingy looking. Im going this far no point in installing old bolts.
Also on order is the Classic Performance Parts Stage PT III kit. Upgraded it with drilled/slotted rotors and had them zinc washed. Last I had them throw in a set of Cal-Trac bars while I was at it. I know some have their pros & cons on the CPP stuff. But I will bet the farm it will be ok for what im going to do with the car and it has to be better than factory so im looking forward to it. From the guys that dont use their car for track use or push them hard they love it. So we'll see.
Hopfully this weekend I will get the subframe out and stripped down. More pics to come
I have the RS Conversion front end kit here along with the DSE electric motor conversion for the hideaway headlights. With that order I also go the Z/28/Pace Car stripe stencil kit to get the stripes laid out when it gets painted as well as a front sheet metal fastener and bolt kit. Nothing wrong with the old bolts but they are all old and dingy looking. Im going this far no point in installing old bolts.
Also on order is the Classic Performance Parts Stage PT III kit. Upgraded it with drilled/slotted rotors and had them zinc washed. Last I had them throw in a set of Cal-Trac bars while I was at it. I know some have their pros & cons on the CPP stuff. But I will bet the farm it will be ok for what im going to do with the car and it has to be better than factory so im looking forward to it. From the guys that dont use their car for track use or push them hard they love it. So we'll see.
Hopfully this weekend I will get the subframe out and stripped down. More pics to come
Last edited by 2BFAST; 04-04-2013 at 12:13 PM.
04-20-2013, 04:30 PM
#71
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If you really wanted it to look good you wouldn't mess with any of the pre made crap. Go get some .049 sheet and cut out a fill panel. Drill 1/8 holes and use clekos to hold it in. Have the body guy spot it in with a mig. fill/sand/fill/sand... yada yada yada.
Also ask your painter if he uses slick sand. It is by far one of the best spray fillers and doesn't shrink.
Sorry but the pre made panels look cheap and looks like you took the east way out on the firewall.
Also ask your painter if he uses slick sand. It is by far one of the best spray fillers and doesn't shrink.
Sorry but the pre made panels look cheap and looks like you took the east way out on the firewall.
04-22-2013, 08:08 AM
#73
If you really wanted it to look good you wouldn't mess with any of the pre made crap. Go get some .049 sheet and cut out a fill panel. Drill 1/8 holes and use clekos to hold it in. Have the body guy spot it in with a mig. fill/sand/fill/sand... yada yada yada.
Also ask your painter if he uses slick sand. It is by far one of the best spray fillers and doesn't shrink.
Sorry but the pre made panels look cheap and looks like you took the east way out on the firewall.
Also ask your painter if he uses slick sand. It is by far one of the best spray fillers and doesn't shrink.
Sorry but the pre made panels look cheap and looks like you took the east way out on the firewall.
Man you are making me jelly. Im chomping at the bit to get this one rolling but its going to be awhile.
05-19-2013, 12:13 AM
#75
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any news brother?
Mine is about to go on the roll back and head to the shop also. I keep starting a build thread and by the time I spend an hour going through photobucket I say F&*k it and go do something else LOL.
Mine is about to go on the roll back and head to the shop also. I keep starting a build thread and by the time I spend an hour going through photobucket I say F&*k it and go do something else LOL.
07-20-2013, 06:37 PM
#77
While the car has been at the body shop I have been doing some major slacking. As the car has recently been almost ready for primer I decided to get off my dead *** and start on the motor and trans. I have the motor stipped down to a short block and have been deciding on what components I want to use. Also on the trans I have made a list of the things I want to do but wanted to get it torn apart just in case to make sure there isnt any suprises.
I didnt get much done on it as the pump is being stubborn as hell popping out of the case. I need to round a friends pump puller then I can start getting to the guts. I havnt had a pump be this stubborn yet but it is what it is and no need to get stupid trying to break it free.
Here is the donor
Bellhousing, tailshaft, pan, and filter removed
Wiring, valve body, 1-2 accumulator cup, pressure manifold, servos, all removed. This is where the pump just wouldnt budge without a puller. First one that I couldnt finagle loose someway without being captain ramrod but its cool. Id rather wait to get the puller then jack something up. Also a look at my mobile transmission stand. Shes seen a few trannys in her day......
More pics to come when I get the pump popped out
I didnt get much done on it as the pump is being stubborn as hell popping out of the case. I need to round a friends pump puller then I can start getting to the guts. I havnt had a pump be this stubborn yet but it is what it is and no need to get stupid trying to break it free.
Here is the donor
Bellhousing, tailshaft, pan, and filter removed
Wiring, valve body, 1-2 accumulator cup, pressure manifold, servos, all removed. This is where the pump just wouldnt budge without a puller. First one that I couldnt finagle loose someway without being captain ramrod but its cool. Id rather wait to get the puller then jack something up. Also a look at my mobile transmission stand. Shes seen a few trannys in her day......
More pics to come when I get the pump popped out
07-23-2013, 07:56 AM
#79
I agree on that statement. I should of been doing this months ago when the car left for the body shop but other "hobbies" took over.
As far as transmissions go, I know enough to be dangerous .Although I would love to do it, I dont have the 100% confidence yet to build someones trans for them to beat on.
As far as transmissions go, I know enough to be dangerous .Although I would love to do it, I dont have the 100% confidence yet to build someones trans for them to beat on.