cuisinartvette

Had this truck since new, getting tired, oil pump orings going

5.3 180k

Found a clean 6.0 block told to me to work with my year

Have the 4l60e cannot afford a 4l80e

Will this block give me any issues mating up with the stock converter trans, some say yes some say no need to know for SURE.

Keep the 5.3 heads or use 6.0?

Will be pretty much stock bottom end, small cam ported heads by yours truly.
Just a sound driver with more torque...pls tell me I can do this hate to rebuild and keep the same cubes.

Thanks..

truckdoug

iTrader: (25)

just do the 4l80e now, learn from my mistakes. it's a crime GM put the 4l60e in trucks.

cuisinartvette

Whats involved, same mounts, any reprogramming?
Will it work with my 5.3 til I can do a motor

Truck is going to eat a couple thousand trying to get past smog next week cannot afford do a motor/trans together right now. Hmm.

Honestly for most purposes a spiced up 5.3 would do but thinking I could get enough torque out of a 6.0 to do some occasional towing?!

Cant find a decent duallie or 3/4 ton that isnt hammered to death
This one is cosmetically real nice still may as well go through it and keep it.

tfi racing

iTrader: (2)

It should be just a matter of using the right combo of flexplate,spacer and bolts.As for the 4L60E it may last minutes,months or years,too many variables to say for sure.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

What year is the 6.0l?

The 6.0l itself with the 317 Heads will be a noticeable difference. 243 Heads wakes them up.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

It's not the block You need to worry about, It's the crank.

99-00 6.0L Had a long snout rear crank that will Not work with a standard 4L60E.

Depending on how you build it, Use 6.0 heads. The 5.3L heads have a smaller intake valve and a smaller CC combustion chamber.

cuisinartvette

Fast brick sounds like were getting closer.

So I need a shorter snout crank.....are those 24 tooth reluctor sounds like the million dollar question. Want to keep the 24 and make this simple as possible.
6.0 heads are ok then.

Havent done a cheapo build since I was in my 20s they can be fun.
Hoping to have it double as a DD and occasional towing. Truck is nice enough....every other truck Ive looked at was hammered. so-

If theres another crank that can work with my trans til I can afford to upgrade that Ill pull the trigger on the block and start looking for a crank kit

This guy wants 6 bones for the block, reasonable or high?Its bare.

neat

That's high for just the block IMO. Around here, running take out 6.0's (with computer and harness) go for about $1200. A long block 6.0 can be had for less than a grand pretty easily. Granted, those aren't rebuilt, so if you are looking to put together your own rotating assembly, the bare block might be the way to go. If you are trying a budget deal, a running 6.0 shouldn't be that hard to come across.

The 6.0 crank confusion is not on what most people call the 'snout' of the crank, it's the back of the crank where the flywheel bolts up. Just wanted to be clear on that.

The 4L60E is likely not long for this world behind a 6.0, especially if you tow on the regular. However, some guys have made it work for what seems like eternity, so you might get lucky. Basic stuff that you already know (servo, computer tune) can help the trans last.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Yea I read this as in it was a short block or something...hence why I asked the year of it.

Stock crank from a pre 2006 5.3l or any LS1 will be what you are looking for.

As mentioned it's the rear flange that is shorter, not the snout. Google it, there is a **** load of pics on there for you to see what exactly you are looking for.

Since this is a bare block build then I would bolt up some 243 Heads.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

IMO, $600 for a bare block is expensive. If it was a Short block that would be 1 thing.

The 24x cranks with a 3.622 stroke and the narrow rear flange (not rear snout) were used in 5.3L, 5.7L and 6.0L's.

The 5.3L from 99-07 classic trucks would have a 24X.

The 5.7L from 99-05 F bodies, Vettes and GTO's Would also be a 24X. They are identifiable by the 1 inch hole through the center of the crank. It's blocked by a freeze Plug at the rear to prevent an oil leak.

The Iron 6.0L from 2001 to 2007 classic trucks would also have a 24X. The LS2 Aluminum block had both options.

They are all balanced specific to their application. So if you're going for budget, it would be a good idea to get one from 6.0 so you don't need to spend alot of money at the balance shop.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Yup, the LS2 from the Corvette and the TBSS are the 58x, the GTO and the CTSV from what I've read are 24x pre 2006.

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

Find a complete long block with aluminum heads and just swap it in.
The iron head 6.0 is the engine you do not want for your truck because of the longer crank.
There was no ls2 pre 06 in the v or gto, those pre 06 were ls6 engines

TipsyMcStagger

iTrader: (1)

2005 & 2006 GTO were both LS2.

Tipsy

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

Yup ^^^ I meant the v not gto

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Yup...I've been looking at too many numbers lately got the two confused.