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i "stole" a 2002 v6 new edge for 350$
running, clean title, needs work.. Especialy the interior since it sat for a while it has some surface mold..urrgh..
but therefore the perfect LS project.
unforthunaly it has 7.5 rear
plan
5.3 lm7//4L60e combo
with a mild cam and a tune to have 300-350 hp in my mustang as a reliable sporty daily that i can take distances as well..
-harness will be standalone i guess?!
-did anybody swap over the OBD as well?? so i can run a tune on the motor/trans? any writeup?
what parts to salvage to make this happen
-what cam you recommend for such a build.. i try to keep it mild
and would like to swap JUST cam .
i might port the heads a bit
- what headers?
-k member...i was thinking AJE plus the necessary tranny mount?!
i wanted to keep the stock gauges but just readthat especialy my 02 clusters dont work.
i saw the option to put a 94-98 cluster in and make it work with the LS.
OR is there another "clean" option"?
buy a univ cluster and put gauges in?? https://www.lsmustangs.com/forum/gen...p-stock-gauges
the 7.5 rearend isnt perfect.
I know but it seems fine and so i think ill adress it down the road.
is the driveshaft length different between a 7.5 and 8.8 rear?
suspension..
im planing on coilovers
ALL OF THIS ON A BBBBBUUUDGGET.
ALL INPUT IS VERY WELCOME
btw. Im.in the bay area CA any fellow mustang ls guys are welcome to link up.. I need help.. Lol
Update
motor is LR4 4.8, LS1 CAM, LS1 fully ported heads,
mustang swap pan,
tranny 4l80e
more to come
might change my mind lol
Cool build, should be a lot more fun to drive when done. If youre on a budget, you will save several hundred dollars using a used harness and can retain obd although it wont be as easy as buying say a PSI standalone harness. A good cheap cam that will bump the power up would be the ls6 cam. Ebay china headers. The 7.5-8.8 should be a direct bolt in swap. The aje k-member I bought looks pretty nice but I had to do a lot of bolt hold modifications to make it work. Maybe look into team-z if you want a better k-member.
I would strongly consider UPR for your k member because of the ease of fittment for everything, price and your motor will sit a bit lower than most . UPR comes in a kit form where every thing you need is there. Hooker now has a kit that works with stock k member, you might look into that.
I would strongly consider UPR for your k member because of the ease of fittment for everything, price and your motor will sit a bit lower than most . UPR comes in a kit form where every thing you need is there. Hooker now has a kit that works with stock k member, you might look into that.
Hey 64post, just to add to your post...I'm working through the details of making the Hooker Fox-body engine swap brackets compatible with the 302-based crossmembers from Maximum Motorsports, UPR and Team Z now, which will make swapping out the K-member and suspension parts during an LS swap an option instead of a requirement as it has been in the past. Using the 302 factory replacement K-members allows the LS to sit lower in the subframe than it can on a mod-motor K-member and maintains the stock Fox body suspension geometry. You can also imagine all the 302-equipped Fox-bodies around the country that ready have one of these K-members in them that are ripe for an LS swap, which would make swapping in another K-member a needless expense if the existing parts are working well otherwise.
I would strongly consider UPR for your k member because of the ease of fittment for everything, price and your motor will sit a bit lower than most . UPR comes in a kit form where every thing you need is there. Hooker now has a kit that works with stock k member, you might look into that.
wow
so i rather use the stock.k member and a hooker conversion... Much easier
great tip.
thanks alot
wow
so i rather use the stock.k member and a hooker conversion... Much easier
great tip.
thanks alot
I just realized I mis-quoted some
information regarding the Hooker parts in my earlier post (I'm home recovering from surgery a little high on Percocet). I mistakenly thought your car was a Fox-body instead of the 02 model you have. You will be able to use the Hooker SN95 engine swap brackets and headers on your stock mod motor K-member, but we don't yet have transmission crossmembers developed for the New Edge cars yet. We will get around to doing it, but it will be a few months until I get to it.
I just realized I mis-quoted so
e information regarding the Hooker parts in my earlier post (I'm home recovering from surgery a little high on Percocet). I mistakenly thought your car was a Fox-body instead of the 02 model you have. You will be able to use the Hooker SN95 engine swap brackets and headers on your stock mod motor K-member, but we don't yet have transmission crossmembers developed for the New Edge cars yet. We will get around to doing it, but it will be a few months until I get to it.
can you send me a Link or PM of the K Member Swap brackets + price?
i would highliy appreciate it
can you send me a Link or PM of the K Member Swap brackets + price?
i would highliy appreciate it
They are in the final steps of getting released, so there's nothing to link to on the Holley website yet. You can however see them in action on the "New Hooker SN95 Mustang LS Swap System Preview Thread" I have running in this forum.
They are in the final steps of getting released, so there's nothing to link to on the Holley website yet. You can however see them in action on the "New Hooker SN95 Mustang LS Swap System Preview Thread" I have running in this forum.
awesome
do they also clear ALL Swap headers? Longtubes/ shorties
or just hookers?
awesome
do they also clear ALL Swap headers? Longtubes/ shorties
or just hookers?
I have no way of knowing for sure as I make no effort to test fit non-Hooker headers as part of my development efforts. However, most headed I've seen developed for the SN95/New Edge Mustangs were designed to work with the UPR engine adapter plates, which mount the engine higher in the chassis than the Hooker adapter plates, which may cause those headers to incur interference with the Hooker adapter plates or the 4.6L engine mounts they're used with.
I have no way of knowing for sure as I make no effort to test fit non-Hooker headers as part of my development efforts. However, most headed I've seen developed for the SN95/New Edge Mustangs were designed to work with the UPR engine adapter plates, which mount the engine higher in the chassis than the Hooker adapter plates, which may cause those headers to incur interference with the Hooker adapter plates or the 4.6L engine mounts they're used with.
The first production run of Hooker Blackheart long tube headers for the SN95 cars have been made and are working their way though the final release process. I would say just monitor the LS swap system pages of the Holley website and you'll them pop up there sometime in the coming month.
The first production run of Hooker Blackheart long tube headers for the SN95 cars have been made and are working there way though the final release process. I would say just monitor the LS swap system pages of the Holley website and you'll them pop up there sometime in the coming month.
So i had some time today to dig deeper in the mustang foundation.
i knew its not gonna be perfect for 350$
it had mold inside
so i took everything out..
doorpanels and centerconsole where super ugly as well as the seats...so.i dumped them.
i rescued the dash and rear panels.
You guys can imagine that it was dirty and grimy as hell.. A mask was necessary...
well i knew the car was t boned at one point but still has a clean title.
the work that was done to it to fix it was horrible.
The floorpans are just spotwelded no seems at all..
soooo i didnt plan on a restauration but i guess im lucky that i can weld stuff like that myself...
Gathering parts and info for my new edge V6 to LS swap.... here are some fun bits to consider.
V6 comes with 302 k member, anything for swapping LS onto mod motor anything won't work.
7.5 rear is open diff so it'll spin like hell, you can put that part off til yours lets go. At the least you can wait for a really good deal on a complete 8.8
Gauges from your mustang will NOT work for anything else. Sell it with your motor/trans/harness as a giant package to recover costs.... sell those ghetto fab wheels while you're at it.
Couple options for working gauges. The 94-95 gauge cluster will work if you are up for a lot of wiring and working behind the dash. Build a complete autometer gauge cluster and add the necessary street gauges like turn signals, hi/lo headlights, odometer, dealing with LS1 odd gauge signals. Florida 5.0 cluster, gutted and reworked mustang cluster. Easiest option is use an fbody gauge cluster in place of the mustang setup.
OBD compliance is gonna be tricky, lots of tuning tricks involved. Really can't help you here since CA is so strict. Good luck with all of that. If you just mean the OBD port in the car, that's simply a matter of running those wires behind the dash and re-pinning the plug.
Coilovers and budget don't belong in the same sentence.... consider geometry correction when you mess with ride height. Budget for bump steer kit, caster/camber plates, and a few alignments to get it right.
That chassis is already flimsy and you have a t-boned base. Before getting too deep into that car I would have a real alignment check by a suspension/chassis shop to be sure its worth the time and money. It will need bracing no matter what. Full length subframe connectors will tie it together just like fbody.
Gathering parts and info for my new edge V6 to LS swap.... here are some fun bits to consider.
V6 comes with 302 k member, anything for swapping LS onto mod motor anything won't work.
7.5 rear is open diff so it'll spin like hell, you can put that part off til yours lets go. At the least you can wait for a really good deal on a complete 8.8
Gauges from your mustang will NOT work for anything else. Sell it with your motor/trans/harness as a giant package to recover costs.... sell those ghetto fab wheels while you're at it.
Couple options for working gauges. The 94-95 gauge cluster will work if you are up for a lot of wiring and working behind the dash. Build a complete autometer gauge cluster and add the necessary street gauges like turn signals, hi/lo headlights, odometer, dealing with LS1 odd gauge signals. Florida 5.0 cluster, gutted and reworked mustang cluster. Easiest option is use an fbody gauge cluster in place of the mustang setup.
OBD compliance is gonna be tricky, lots of tuning tricks involved. Really can't help you here since CA is so strict. Good luck with all of that. If you just mean the OBD port in the car, that's simply a matter of running those wires behind the dash and re-pinning the plug.
Coilovers and budget don't belong in the same sentence.... consider geometry correction when you mess with ride height. Budget for bump steer kit, caster/camber plates, and a few alignments to get it right.
That chassis is already flimsy and you have a t-boned base. Before getting too deep into that car I would have a real alignment check by a suspension/chassis shop to be sure its worth the time and money. It will need bracing no matter what. Full length subframe connectors will tie it together just like fbody.
yeah i keep the 7.5 until it shatters and replace it when needed with a 8.8!
the wheeels?? i LOOOVE ME ahahahah.. hell no.. this pieces of Sh** cant even be sold i guess.. i just dont have other wheels to have the car sitting on right now..
about the KMember.. im waiting on HOOKER to finalize there OEMKmember LS Swap Mounts and crossmember..
so i dont have to F**K with the KMember at all..
about the gauge cluster.. yeah i see what you say..
chassis..i was able to reweld the floor pans... after diggin deeper into it i have to admit it wasnt to bad.. i guess this spoiled californians just didnt put any rust prevention on it at all.. so the welds and bare metal .. had surface rust since the car was sitting with a wet carpet...
i cleaned it all up, created bigger and sturdy spot welds and seemed in whatever i could seem.
then i sprayed rust reformer and let it sit 48 hours to cure..
i just came back from the driveway where.. i put a nice layer of SIKAFLEX on the seem then a zinc spray then SIKAFLEX again... then primer and paint. to make sure everything is moldet in nice and secure.
Coilovers, yes you right i might just go with Ford racing springs and some Billsteins.
I also reconsider my budget and will see if a 6.0 truck engineis in the budget instead of a 5.3.
BTW.
Window regulator on a Mustang is a BI**H , driver side window has some issues.. so i grabbed a black replacement door at the junkyard...
actualy the Junk door is in ok shape but not as nice as the OEM. so i swap out parts and make it work i guess..
got a lot of scratches and wear on the black paint in general.. the stock Hood will most likly not work with a LS truck engine...so i go cowl anyways..
i got a bunch of interior parts already from the junkyard instead of "mold" clean the old ones.. was just more convinient.
Has anybody ever used a tablet as gauges?
i guess thats a easy and fancy way as well to have all speedometer and tach gauges work.
7inch tablet,
torque app,
obd2 connector
and you get all the specs from the ecu/engine/ tranny directly.
i guess you can make it look nice if you black out the oem cluster somehow and mold in the tablet.
tablet can get powered through acc or lighter/charger i guess. I think i saw chargers that shut down as soon as ignition is off and turn on as soon as you turn the ign. on.
01-25-2017, 12:37 AM
02' Mustang V6 to LS "sporty Daily" 
