New Edge Mustang - Turbo LQ4/T56
12-21-2017, 04:03 PM
#41
Originally Posted by Andler2008
I got a question, have you seen how far back the T56 shifter sits in the trans tunnel in comparison to the OEM MT?
Either way, do you plan on using the stock location, or moving it rearward slightly?
Either way, do you plan on using the stock location, or moving it rearward slightly?
12-26-2017, 12:21 PM
#42
Well things are progressing slowly, I welded in the new core support this weekend. First time welding and doing any kind of body work really. My welds look garbage but they will hold fine. I have a flapper wheel and some primer then i will gut the engine bay, take off the front K-member and repaint the whole engine bay. I am only missing the passenger side fender and a bumper before i an assemble the car together.
Attachment 693358
Attachment 693359
Here is the practice welds I did with gas.
Attachment 693357
Installed the clutch pedals, may go to the junkyard and pick the ones off another car i found. The previous owner of the ones I installed did a **** poor job and JB Welded the pads on... They are crooked and it will drive me insane with the pedals not being symmetrical.
Attachment 693360
For those who are doing this swap i talked to McLeod directly and they suggested i go with McLeod Part #14-330-01, it is a new edge specific master cylinder with the GM Qwik disconnects on the braided line for the GM Slave. Cheapest I have found is on Tick Performance for $469 Shipped.
Ordering the following after Christmas season is over so that i can drop the motor in place.
- Maximum Motorsports MMST14 Solid Steering Shaft (Rag Joint wont clear Long tubes)
- Loklar TC-1000LSU 36" Throttle Cable w/ the mounting bracket for the LS* intake.
- GM Slave cylinder
- Tick Performance Remote Speed Bleeder
Think ill start working on the Standalone harness this weekend in my free-time. Have 2 work function Christmas parties for both my Girlfriend and I so this weekend will be busy.
Oh and here are my gauges mocked up, leaving the third empty till I decide if I want fuel pressure or AFR
Attachment 693356
Attachment 693358
Attachment 693359
Here is the practice welds I did with gas.
Attachment 693357
Installed the clutch pedals, may go to the junkyard and pick the ones off another car i found. The previous owner of the ones I installed did a **** poor job and JB Welded the pads on... They are crooked and it will drive me insane with the pedals not being symmetrical.
Attachment 693360
For those who are doing this swap i talked to McLeod directly and they suggested i go with McLeod Part #14-330-01, it is a new edge specific master cylinder with the GM Qwik disconnects on the braided line for the GM Slave. Cheapest I have found is on Tick Performance for $469 Shipped.
Ordering the following after Christmas season is over so that i can drop the motor in place.
- Maximum Motorsports MMST14 Solid Steering Shaft (Rag Joint wont clear Long tubes)
- Loklar TC-1000LSU 36" Throttle Cable w/ the mounting bracket for the LS* intake.
- GM Slave cylinder
- Tick Performance Remote Speed Bleeder
Think ill start working on the Standalone harness this weekend in my free-time. Have 2 work function Christmas parties for both my Girlfriend and I so this weekend will be busy.
Oh and here are my gauges mocked up, leaving the third empty till I decide if I want fuel pressure or AFR
Attachment 693356
01-05-2018, 01:56 PM
#43
Well guys (and gals) here is an update of what's been happening.
Finally got the whole bay painted last week.
Got a couple of parts in to make some magic happen.
Got the body panels on, cobra bumper is ordered and should be arriving anytime now. And for those who are probably wondering; the car has 5% on the front windows, 15% on the windshield and limo on the rest. And yes I can see fine at night, 55w Infiniti Fx35 projectors light it up pretty well.
I got around to finally hooking up the auto meter gauges to power, works on the headlight *** dimmer.
I'm going to be ordering a AFR gauge soon, any recommendations? I want one in a pod for sure.
Oh and the oil pressure line uses nylon tubing, not sure I like that idea. Anybody do something different like -AN line?
Finally got the whole bay painted last week.
Got a couple of parts in to make some magic happen.
Got the body panels on, cobra bumper is ordered and should be arriving anytime now. And for those who are probably wondering; the car has 5% on the front windows, 15% on the windshield and limo on the rest. And yes I can see fine at night, 55w Infiniti Fx35 projectors light it up pretty well.
I got around to finally hooking up the auto meter gauges to power, works on the headlight *** dimmer.
I'm going to be ordering a AFR gauge soon, any recommendations? I want one in a pod for sure.
Oh and the oil pressure line uses nylon tubing, not sure I like that idea. Anybody do something different like -AN line?
01-07-2018, 05:38 PM
#44
Updated OP with a to do list.
Seems like everyday i find more and more i need to do / figure out before i can start this thing.
I am trying to plan out my fuel system, i do plan on going turbo later on so my question is will the corvette regulator be the choke point if i go -8 AN supply and -6 Return? OR will -6 AN be plenty of fuel for ~600 RWHP?
Seems like everyday i find more and more i need to do / figure out before i can start this thing.
I am trying to plan out my fuel system, i do plan on going turbo later on so my question is will the corvette regulator be the choke point if i go -8 AN supply and -6 Return? OR will -6 AN be plenty of fuel for ~600 RWHP?
01-08-2018, 07:13 PM
#45
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-6 for the return is Plenty for under 900whp...I'm doing -8 feed and -6 return in my swapped GT also....the corvette regulator will be a bottle neck imo. I picked up a Magnafuel regulator.
01-09-2018, 10:00 AM
#47
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If you already have line -8 line/fittings, you could just run conversion fittings (-8 to -6) to the vette regulator so you can keep the lines and use them later when you upgrade. Otherwise, you'll be good to go with your current setup for that power level...only thing is the vetter regulator isn't boost referenced so the fuel pressure is going to be a lil weird.
01-10-2018, 05:56 AM
#49
If you already have line -8 line/fittings, you could just run conversion fittings (-8 to -6) to the vette regulator so you can keep the lines and use them later when you upgrade. Otherwise, you'll be good to go with your current setup for that power level...only thing is the vetter regulator isn't boost referenced so the fuel pressure is going to be a lil weird.
Cool, Thanks i was looking for some input!
01-11-2018, 06:24 AM
#50
TECH Regular
Looking awesome man! I just finished a budget lq4/4l80e turbo in a 2001 v6. First swap ever. Took me about 4 months doing it outside here in new England. Definitely need a garage haha. I'm wondering what your plan was to keep the factory gauges? This is my current dilemma. I'm looking for budget friendly but also a decent look. I haven't really seen anyone that got everything to work on these new edges, just a lot of speculation and since its winter here I haven't gotten a chance to dive in to it. Anyone have anything that worked 100% for their new edge gauges?
01-11-2018, 07:51 AM
#51
Looking awesome man! I just finished a budget lq4/4l80e turbo in a 2001 v6. First swap ever. Took me about 4 months doing it outside here in new England. Definitely need a garage haha. I'm wondering what your plan was to keep the factory gauges? This is my current dilemma. I'm looking for budget friendly but also a decent look. I haven't really seen anyone that got everything to work on these new edges, just a lot of speculation and since its winter here I haven't gotten a chance to dive in to it. Anyone have anything that worked 100% for their new edge gauges?
Im going to test this theory when i get the car running. The tach may be a little off being a v6 car originally, but you can modify the tach output in HPtuners.
01-15-2018, 01:09 PM
#52
TECH Regular
So far the information i have gathered is that the fuel, 12V gauges will work no matter what. You can choose to run the ford Coolant and oil pressure gauges on the ls motor and run a wire to the bulkhead to capture the signal for those to the ecu. The Tach you will connect your ls ecu output and put it into pin 48 on the mustang ecu. Speedo you need to tach the vss output from the ls ecu run it through a dakota digital SGI-5 and then into pin 68 of the mustang ecu.
Im going to test this theory when i get the car running. The tach may be a little off being a v6 car originally, but you can modify the tach output in HPtuners.
Im going to test this theory when i get the car running. The tach may be a little off being a v6 car originally, but you can modify the tach output in HPtuners.
Everything you said was exactly what I read also. I can corroborate that the fuel and voltage work perfectly. I can also add that I've figured out since these are CANBUS there is no pin 48 for tach on these ecu's.... at least not on the 3 mustangs I own. (00 gt, 01 v6, 02 gt) so its my understanding that you need to feed the ecu the crank signal. Same for the speedo, you just grab the output from the vss on the gm trans and feed it to the input on the mustang ecu with some converter box. The oil and coolant work on the same principle. Just hook the sensors in and feed the ecu the signal.
And this is where I'm kind of at a loss. Do I spend 300+ bucks on different converter boxes and spend a ton of time messing with my old wiring harness and sensors? do I buy a 94-98 dash and spend the time and money wiring it up? Or spend quite a bit and start with a new dash setup with new gauges? Swap in an F-body gauge (which I think look hideous by the way)? Sorry for rambling but this is where I'm at now. So I guess this is my call out to all new edge swapped mustang guys on here.... has anyone actually gotten factory gauges to work on here?
01-16-2018, 05:32 PM
#53
Originally Posted by SwapStang
Everything you said was exactly what I read also. I can corroborate that the fuel and voltage work perfectly. I can also add that I've figured out since these are CANBUS there is no pin 48 for tach on these ecu's.... at least not on the 3 mustangs I own. (00 gt, 01 v6, 02 gt) so its my understanding that you need to feed the ecu the crank signal. Same for the speedo, you just grab the output from the vss on the gm trans and feed it to the input on the mustang ecu with some converter box. The oil and coolant work on the same principle. Just hook the sensors in and feed the ecu the signal.
And this is where I'm kind of at a loss. Do I spend 300+ bucks on different converter boxes and spend a ton of time messing with my old wiring harness and sensors? do I buy a 94-98 dash and spend the time and money wiring it up? Or spend quite a bit and start with a new dash setup with new gauges? Swap in an F-body gauge (which I think look hideous by the way)? Sorry for rambling but this is where I'm at now. So I guess this is my call out to all new edge swapped mustang guys on here.... has anyone actually gotten factory gauges to work on here?
And this is where I'm kind of at a loss. Do I spend 300+ bucks on different converter boxes and spend a ton of time messing with my old wiring harness and sensors? do I buy a 94-98 dash and spend the time and money wiring it up? Or spend quite a bit and start with a new dash setup with new gauges? Swap in an F-body gauge (which I think look hideous by the way)? Sorry for rambling but this is where I'm at now. So I guess this is my call out to all new edge swapped mustang guys on here.... has anyone actually gotten factory gauges to work on here?
I have made some different approaches to the build.
I picked up a big cam, a BTR Platinum .660 Spring kit, Johnson Lifters, BTR Trunnion upgrade kit, melting high volume oil pump, and a LS2 timing chain.
Cam may not be the best choice for this motor but, for the price I paid (a steal, literally) it will suit me just fine.
It is new in the box, never ran.
Also started working on the wiring harness, stripped out all the unnecessary stuff. I added a pin for the EGR 5v to log my Wideband through HPTuners STD.
Oh and I finally got the front end back all together. Love those switchback LEDs.
Last edited by Burning; 01-17-2018 at 07:13 AM.
01-17-2018, 10:11 AM
#55
Im thinking my original date of March isn't going to happen, it may be April. Building this car with money i make on the side and right now business is slow being the winter time. Really all that is left as far as the expensive **** goes is the fuel system and driveshaft.
01-17-2018, 11:23 AM
#56
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Let us know how that McLeod Hydraulic setup works. I've read a ton of bad reviews with Few people getting it to work right...they have me scared to pull the trigger on it. I might have to piece together a setup for my tr6060 with a wilwood master.
01-17-2018, 12:59 PM
#57
I like the McLeod because it doesn't take any modification, used the stock pedal configuration, fully adjustable, and has the correct adapter line to go from the CMC to the GM TOB via quick disconnect.
01-19-2018, 09:27 AM
#58
Its a good 10' away car haha. It has its flaws being a 14 year old car. I was excited to go t56 because i think autos take the fun out of it, but i quickly realized how much more money and work it takes vs going to a 4L80E. Ill be limited to the power the t56 can handle but i will enjoy driving it more through a manual then a auto.
Im thinking my original date of March isn't going to happen, it may be April. Building this car with money i make on the side and right now business is slow being the winter time. Really all that is left as far as the expensive **** goes is the fuel system and driveshaft.
Im thinking my original date of March isn't going to happen, it may be April. Building this car with money i make on the side and right now business is slow being the winter time. Really all that is left as far as the expensive **** goes is the fuel system and driveshaft.
