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Deep Planning Research 73'-87' C-10

Old 05-18-2018, 03:55 AM
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Default Deep Planning Research 73'-87' C-10

Hey all,

So, I've been a lurker here for YEARS.... Now I finally have a project vehicle, I have a reason to ask a question!

I have a 79' C-10 LWB. I'm planning on replacing the 350/350 with a 5.3/4l60E. I just want a daily driver that WORKS.... I hate carburetors....

So... Some probably dumb questions for deep research.

1: Engine Mounts. I've read a bunch of build threads, but it seems most guys ditch the AC... I want the AC to work. Summers in Indiana SUCK... So, aparently the frame is just too narrow for the stock 5.3 AC compressor to work.... UNLESS... I've found mounts from Tejas Steel Works. They say that their mounts move the engine UP and FORWARD enough where the stock AC works just fine.... I've also heard that the Adjustable mounts from DirtyDingo will move the motor forward enough to work..... I'd like to hear from those of you who have actually done it. What mounts will let me use the stock AC.... I'd rather spend an extra $100 on mounts than a grand on re-jiggering the accessory mounts.... Also, could you just notch and re-enforce the frame? The S-10 guys notch and box their frames....????

And... Too much ETOH..... I cant remember the other question. Maybe tomorrow.

TIA
William
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Old 05-18-2018, 06:20 AM
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Some room to be gained.. Use of the smaller SD7 compressor, and the Dingo mount. [SD is physically smaller than the 508.]
The SD has ports that can be chosen, to make plumbing easier. It also has a "hi perf" version, that will more than cool the truck cab.
Look at some of the fancy accessory drives, w/ the compressor mtd in ft of the pass cyl head. That's the SD style unit.
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Old 05-18-2018, 06:29 AM
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I used the dirty dingo mounts to slide the motor in the correct position to use the stock driveshaft with no mod needed. I also used the dirty dingo AC relocation mount which mounts it on the passenger side in front of the head and the sanden compressor. This way was best for me and its easier to pull off the compressor if need be and plumb it.
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Old 05-18-2018, 03:51 PM
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I'd like to hear from those of you who have actually done it.
I have, and if you can wait till I get home from work I'll have some pictures of how I did mine with all factory parts...including AC.
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Old 05-18-2018, 11:28 PM
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CattleAC, I've got all the time in the world. Probably wont start the swap till next spring....

So the SD-7 compressor is smaller... Does it mate to the stock mount? If so, that's awesome.

Dirty Dingo has a top mount..... Interesting......

I remembered what else I meant to ask.....

CPP Exhaust manifolds. Anyone Use them? They are 2/3 the price of the Holley manifolds and seem to be just about the same. For the same price, you can get em' Ceramic Coated.... Seems like a deal to me. That is if they are of good quality.

TIA
William
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Old 05-19-2018, 01:07 PM
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Holley makes all the mounts and accessory options for the swap. I would be weary of mounts that raise the engine. This can have a detrimental effect on driveline angles.

Andrew
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Old 05-19-2018, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO View Post
Holley makes all the mounts and accessory options for the swap. I would be weary of mounts that raise the engine. This can have a detrimental effect on driveline angles.

Andrew
I know Holly makes everything, they are also Incredibly expensive.....

The Tejas Steel Shop mounts SAY that they have the driveline angle all figured out.... I was wondering if anyone here had used them
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Old 05-20-2018, 10:08 AM
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Their mounts are reasonable considering they work the FIRST time. Quality isn't cheap. About $360 suggested retail for both engine mounts and tranny crossmember is not bad, as they are VERY good quality and strongly made. Also, you do not want a mount that raises the engine, which means the tranny is raised too, meaning it's got to be about hitting the floorboards, IF driveline angles are held true.
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Old 05-21-2018, 02:17 PM
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another benefits for the tejas mounts is that you can use the factory truck oil pan without the oil pan hang to low below the crossmember. since tejas raises the engine, with his transmission crossmember, u can have better clearance with lt and full 3in exhaust
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Old 05-21-2018, 02:56 PM
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When you raise the engine, the tranny also must be raised to maintain the correct driveline angle. And when that happens there is a chance of the tranny hitting the tunnel.
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Old 05-22-2018, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma View Post
When you raise the engine, the tranny also must be raised to maintain the correct driveline angle. And when that happens there is a chance of the tranny hitting the tunnel.
^This....and having vibration issues.

Andrew
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Old 05-23-2018, 10:02 AM
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I apologize for getting back to you so late...anyway, I used the most economical plates I could find, and the factory clamshell mount...




I'll get some better pics of how I modified the clamshell moount to fit the factory compressor. And how I modified the frame slightly to make it all work.
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Old 05-23-2018, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by devildogmech View Post
CattleAC, I've got all the time in the world. Probably wont start the swap till next spring.....

I remembered what else I meant to ask.....

CPP Exhaust manifolds. Anyone Use them? They are 2/3 the price of the Holley manifolds and seem to be just about the same..

TIA
William
I used factory F-body exhaust manifolds, worked perfect. If you look on ebay they almost pay you to take these.
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Old 05-24-2018, 02:54 AM
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Originally Posted by CattleAc View Post
I used factory F-body exhaust manifolds, worked perfect. If you look on ebay they almost pay you to take these.
I'd love to know where you're looking. I cant find any locally on CL and Ebay has them for just as much as brand new CPP ones....
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