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I am building a car and have been lurking here for a while trying to gain some knowledge. I picked up a running driving 1980 Cutlass Cruiser from a friend for $1,250 a while back and started collecting stuff to do a LS swap with a single Hiroshima Hairdryer. The ol Bangkok Block knocker. Teriyaki Tornado..or whatever you like to call the Ching Chong twirly boi. I really mostly plan for it to be a weekend track car. No plans at all to make it super nice and comfy. I don't have the budget or desire to make a clean ultra street-able driver.
Here is my parts list with links for anyone going through the same thing. This is a VERY budget build so keep that in mind. I am attempting to post pictures and will add them in when I can upload them to my Drive from my phone.
Custom Single turbo kit with China GT45, Stainless headers, center mount - Stand-a-lone harness built from truck harness with P01 ECU - Came with turbo kit. $900
Was told it was a 76mm but after checking it is as follows.
Pump 93 due to no E85 in my region(Big Bummer I know) Ebay A2W Intercooler Link$120
5 Gallon RV water tank and Deck plate lid for tank so I can dump ice in it - Tank, Bilge pump , Deck plate to use as ice box lid $85
Misc fittings and hose from Tractor supply for Intercooler water setup - $50 Turbo-Smart style Dual stage controller - Yes, I over paid it's a knock off but at least it is two MAC valves internally. $110 DIY Water/Meth Injection I am building -
$22 , McMaster Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/3178K75 , https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/3178K77 $5-10 each, Ebay - https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&toolid=10001&campid=5335822911&icep_item=252309034833 $14 Hopefully this won't fail at 10 psi boost in 90* heat.... lol Unsure if I will run this now since I am going A2W now. Stock TH350 from the Cutlass - Freebie Converter my buddy has ( Unknown stall speed) Will buy much better later - Freebie Stock 4.8: Dished flexplate with GM Flexplate spacer and longer bolts from Summit Racing. Paid to overnight so instead of $59 it was $90 total. Spacer and bolts Stock Driveshaft until I swap to the 8.8. Freebie Mustang 8.8 from 04 GT with disc brakes (It's the long one so either I'll be rolling fenders a bunch or run the 7.5 until I get it cut it down then install the 8.8) $100 SR motor mount plates (Ebay) Motor mount plates $28.54 Flex plate adapter This one $10 - Ended up going with the bolt on one from GM See above New F-body Oil pan from a guy who never used- $150 with this -10AN Bung welded in
$10 x 2 Heater Core delete hose Ebay Link $10 Custom made A/C-Heater delete panel made by myself Freebie - Normally $50-100 on Ebay RaceStar Drag wheels - 17x4 and 15x8 - Almost sold out but killer deal $78.99 each wheel Cheap Turbo Blanket - Ebay Link $15.62 I got the new HP Tuners MPVI2 for $225
Hope you like my project Original 260 V8 that ran until the day I pulled it out. Bay cleaned up and heater/AC box removed.
https://www.motionraceworks.com/prod...-mounting-ears
I bought a Motion Raceworks T4 Flange to build a support off of. It will need to be supported by the motor itself. I have no flex in my Crossover so if I support the turbo on the frame it will cause even more stress issues on the piping. I plan to do something similar to this.
See attached for Mount ideas Mine will be similar Only brace off of frame IF you have flex joints or slip joints. Here's one braced off the passenger head but this setup has the turbo mounted on the passenger side. Here's a underneath view of a center mount where ours will be. Gives you a rough idea of where people are mounting them off of. Someone's crossover pipe and mount in one piece. I want my support to bolt onto the flange or at least be able to remove the turbo then the Motion flange and supports as one piece without removing my crossover all together. Something like this will work. Again, this is great if your engine is either mounted SOLID and CANNOT move at all or you have flex joints, or both. Very similar to what Im doing. Hard to see but there's some bracing in this pics somewhere.
I built my turbo support to attach to the engine at 4 points. 2 on the waterpump bolts and 2 more to the block. It was a pain in the ***, but I don't want the pipes to crack with the first bump in the road. I found an old picture that has part of the support in it.
Used a 5 gallon RV water tank. Put a 6" screw out deck plate in it that you put in a boat for observation. This will allow a big enough hole to pour bags of ice into the tank no problem. Used stainless machine screws and RTV when mounting. I used a high flow bilge pump and screwed it's base to a board and then glued the board to the bottom of the tank since you cannot screw the pump base to the tank itself. I then used 1"ID spa hose as my feed line from the pump to the large bulkheads I bought to pass through the side of the tank. I put the supply and return bulkheads in and screwed 3/4npt to 3/4" barb fitting for 3/4" ID hose. Turned out to be a pretty clean setup. I may remove the guts of a really old drink cooler and put the cooler over top of the ice tank so it looks more like I'm going on a picnic instead of to a racetrack.
Home made turbo guard from a plumbing coupler with the end cut out of it and a piece of 1/8th mesh fence I bought at a building supply store. About $25 total
Okay, I have taken a long time on this project due to me upgrading a ton of stuff before I ever put it on the road. I have still yet to drive this car after 1.5 years. Yeah I know.
Here is the list of upgrades
VS racing 75mm turbo with 83x75 turbine 1.10AR - I polished that turd too
VS Racing 60mm Wastegate
Victor Jr intake setup
Genuine SD 80lb Injectors
FTI Level 4 TH400 with transbrake
Jegs XD Stall
Vision Sport Mag drag wheels 17/15
Aeromotive A1000 pump and pre/post filters
-10AN Fuel feed and -10AN Return
Holley Terminator X EFI System
GM 2.5 Bar Map sensor
07-18-2019, 12:15 PM
Cutlass Cruiser getting a 4.8L and boost 
