Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

BUILT LSX Stroker into a 95 Z28

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-16-2013, 11:30 AM
  #221  
Teching In
iTrader: (3)
 
MrSlinger85's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: NW suburbs Chicago
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 1961ba427
All I was trying to say is 430 rwhp with a 350" stock short block LT1 is not that hard.....and.....a good bit MORE than that is not that hard with a 6.0L short block. I wasn't trying to start a debate on which is better. All that boils down to is personal preference, opinion, and cubic dollars. LOL Also a lot of it comes down to what one has access to and knowledge of.
Tuneability alone makes me want to build an LS motor for my 94. Its also getting hard to find people who will tune these cars. Aftermarket support is insane for LS motors too. The stock bottom ends on them is way better too.
Old 07-17-2013, 10:25 AM
  #222  
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (88)
 
the_merv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: The Beach...
Posts: 19,261
Received 63 Likes on 54 Posts

Default

You could always do the 24X to an LT1 and that solves the tuning problem...doing that is pretty much an LS Swap by the wiring..lol
Old 11-19-2013, 08:58 PM
  #223  
Teching In
 
95_lq4_z28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default grounds?

Originally Posted by the_merv
This is the Swap Thread for the installation of my LS Engine into my 95 Z28. Some of this info will help you guys that are looking into this. I went through this thread and put every post of mine with pics and info to the beginning here so it's easier to see. I started into this in March '07 when I built the Harness and had the LS PCM Tuned, then I sold the LT1 stuff out of the Car, and in June '07 it was running with the LS setup.

Chassis: 1995 Camaro Z28
Engine: 408ci 6.7l LQ4/L92 Stroker
Transmission: Tremec T56 6spd, Built with Tick Performance Stage II Kit
Wiring: 1999 F-Body LS1 Harness, 2002 PCM

Here are some links to threads that I have made:
LS1 HARNESS WIRED INTO LT1 CAR
T56 SWAP
T56 TRANSMISSION BUILD
1998 CAMARO SWAP THREAD

Specs:

GM 6.0l Truck Iron Block
L92 Heads, Milled .025", PRC .660 Lift Dual-Coil Springs
TX Speed 7.400" Hardened Push Rods
L76 Intake, Holley 90mm TB, Complete LS2 Fuel Injection
Custom Cam 243/247, .621(XFI)/.612(X-ER), 114+3LSA, LS2 Timing Set
Eagle Forged 4340 4.000" Crank, Eagle 4340 Forged 6.125" H-Beam Rods
Mahle Forged -12cc Pistons, 4.030" Bore, Moly Rings
Fully Balanced Rotating Assembly
Fully Tuned, set at 32*-34* Timing
Cometic MLS Head Gaskets
Clevite P-series Bearings
Melling High-Volume Oil Pump
Everything essential needed to fit in a F-body(Oil Pan, Accessories..etc.)

Here is the Block..

Here is the Crank Shaft I'm using..

Here are the Rods..

L92/LS3 Heads..

L76 Intake with LS2 Fuel Rails and LS2 Injectors..


Holley 90mm Throttle Body..


Wiring:
I researched and completely built the Harness that I have. It took about 15 hours to complete. I stripped it completely out, leaving only the essentials. I took out the AC, A.I.R., EGR, TCS, Cruise Control, Rear O2's, and a few other things. I added LS2 Fuel Injectors, and the Connector for a Corvette 85mm MAF. I also re-wired the Coolant Temp Sensor to the 3-wire Sensor and Connector from a 1998 F-body LS1(part number 12551708). The 3rd Wire is for the Gauges, they are still Analog cause the Car is older than a 1999.
I re-wired it to plug directly into the LT1 Chassis. Everything is where it should be, all the Gauges work, and the Tach has been adjusted. I re-wired everything for the T56, and even moved the O2 Sensor Connectors to above the Transmission, now I don't need any Extentions. I also moved the Grounds to the Passengers side Head, I made them to bolt to where the Oil Dip Stick Tube bolts onto the Head.

I also went through the Wiring from the Connector on the Wheel Well and going through it all the way to the Fuse Box. I re-wired the Fuse Box to clean up some things and to give each circuit in the Harness power and made it run on a fuse. I also re-did the wiring for the Cooling Fans so they run with the PCM, and I have them running on Manual Switches.

Above at the top of the page is a Link to a little guide I made up on how to wire in a LS1 Harness into this car.

Here is a pic of the Engine Harness after I got done..


Fuel System:
The LT1 Fuel System is pretty much a seperate System from the PCM, so all it needed was power and it was good. I matched up all the required Wires for it, and it works, Gauges didn't have to be touched. I had to use a 1999-up LS1 Corvette Fuel Filter/Regulator to make the Fuel from the 2-Line LT1 System go into a single inlet Line to the LS2 Rails. I'm using a Walbro 255 Fuel Pump.

Mounts:
I'm using a LS1 K-member with LS1 Mounts. The Upper Mounts have Polyurethane Bushings installed. I was using the stock LT1 T56 Crossmember for the LS1 T56..it works without issue when using the LS1 K-member. I swapped to a UMI Crossmember setup.

LS1 Polyurethane Mounts..


LS1 K-member installed..
Notice my ABS Delete..it works like a champ..stops even quicker.


I did have it mounted in with Conversion Mounts on the LT1 K-member for a while though..I had to use the LS1 setup due to Drivetrain clearance issues. The Conversion Mounts I used moved the entire Drivetrain back 3/4" to the rear, the Drive Shaft to Transmission clearance was too tight.

Steering:
The Steering had to be changed out for the LS1 Rack, it clears the Engine, the LT1 Rack and Linkage won't.


Under the car is a UMI Performance Adjustable Torque Arm. I have the one that has the Relocation Crossmember designed to bolt the Torque Arm to it instead of the Torque Arm to the Tranny..



Overall this swap isn't too difficult to do, the Wiring was the most time-consuming part cause I wasn't familiar with it, and now that is easy to do..
What are the grounds by the injectors and coil? what are they grounding?
Old 01-10-2014, 11:43 AM
  #224  
Teching In
 
olblue97's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by TheBiz
I'm using the same setup, I just located the filter/regulator in the stock location and ran a -6 braided feed line and a vacuum line from the back.
Got any pictures of the filter and lines? Thanks
Old 02-06-2014, 10:58 PM
  #225  
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (88)
 
the_merv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: The Beach...
Posts: 19,261
Received 63 Likes on 54 Posts

Default

Not sure what you mean about the Grounds..Filter and Lines are in the first post on page 1..
Old 03-29-2014, 06:19 PM
  #226  
Teching In
 
95_lq4_z28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Im swapping a 5.3 into the same car. bought a plug and play harness from bp automotive. the #3 injector connector makes the injector stay wide open and not shut off. it follows that connector. any ideas on fixing this?
Old 03-29-2014, 09:46 PM
  #227  
TECH Regular
 
pdsq98gt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 435
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

It sounds like the trigger wire is accidentally shorted to ground on that connector.
Old 03-30-2014, 08:14 PM
  #228  
Teching In
 
95_lq4_z28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by pdsq98gt
It sounds like the trigger wire is accidentally shorted to ground on that connector.
Where could it be shorted? Where else does that wire go?
Old 03-30-2014, 11:56 PM
  #229  
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (88)
 
the_merv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: The Beach...
Posts: 19,261
Received 63 Likes on 54 Posts

Default

I'd be calling up BP and seeing what his thought is.

Leave the Harness connected and grounded to the Engine, take a Multi Meter and probe the Pins of that connector and see if one of them has a solid ground.
Old 12-25-2014, 12:40 AM
  #230  
Teching In
 
dconnor18's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Lq4 1994 z28

Just in case my present mechanic tanks on my LQ4 installation do you do this as a professional?

looks like you made it look easy

D
Old 12-30-2014, 07:40 PM
  #231  
Staging Lane
 
MorePSI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by dconnor18
Just in case my present mechanic tanks on my LQ4 installation do you do this as a professional?

looks like you made it look easy

D
A 4th gen swap is easy since 98 and up already used an LS motor. Off the top of my head you need the K member, steering rack, steering intermediate shaft (goes between rack and steering column) to get rid of the rag joint, a conversion harness if you aren't going to swap the cluster and miscellaneous parts to a later interior, if it's a manual car then the LT1 T56 needs an input shaft, front plate, bellhousing, and clutch. Plus, obviously, the engine/ECM.

Overall a pretty painless swap compared to say an FJ40 with a Pontiac 400 backed by a Toyota H42 4 speed....
Old 01-12-2015, 11:05 PM
  #232  
Teching In
 
dconnor18's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Are there any Mechanics out there on the west Coast?

I need a mechanic that can install a LQ4/4l80 in my 94 Z28 Camaro. I have the 98 k member in already, dingo adjustable engine adapter mounts, headers, trans relocator, wiring, I think pretty much everything but an honest mechanic who knows how to work on cars! I have been stalled, lied to...For instance the last mechanic here in Gold Beach, Or stating he is the absolute best, stalled for 10 months! pulled the motor and trans out of the car so I could not take it to anyone else then said he could not finish charging me $1600 for work done!!! Scratched up my brand new paint, a chunk out of my fiberglass hood.
I have the car in Redding now and although I was promised "we will get right on it" it has been 2 months!!
Anyone know a good mechanic?
Old 05-30-2021, 02:32 PM
  #233  
On The Tree
 
LT1DG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 160
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Hey merv, I'm I thinking about swapping my lt1 out for a stock ls3 for a good price.
Will it be any difference from swapping any ls or will the process be more tedious with ls3 swap?
Old 05-30-2021, 05:13 PM
  #234  
TECH Senior Member
 
G Atsma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Central Cal.
Posts: 20,878
Received 3,022 Likes on 2,353 Posts
Default

Nut and bolt wise, no difference. If you can do the electrical and drivetrain, you got this
Old 05-30-2021, 06:10 PM
  #235  
On The Tree
 
LT1DG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 160
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by G Atsma
Nut and bolt wise, no difference. If you can do the electrical and drivetrain, you got this
I'm planning on getting 4l80e so installation won't be that tough.

I found a ls3 standalone wiring harness with the 4l80e on ebay.

Do I have to get a ls3 pcm or can I use any ls pcm?
Old 05-31-2021, 09:07 AM
  #236  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
 
93Z2871805's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,727
Likes: 0
Received 49 Likes on 43 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by LT1DG
I'm planning on getting 4l80e so installation won't be that tough.

I found a ls3 standalone wiring harness with the 4l80e on ebay.

Do I have to get a ls3 pcm or can I use any ls pcm?
What year is the car?

An LS3 will have a 58x reluctor, so you would need a signal converter to use an 0411.



Quick Reply: BUILT LSX Stroker into a 95 Z28



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:08 AM.