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T56 Swappers: CAGS & Reverse Lockout Delete

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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 12:45 PM
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Default T56 Swappers: CAGS & Reverse Lockout Delete

My T56 swap required me to remove the Reverse Lockout Solenoid for some needed clearance/room for my torque arm mount to get my driveline angles correct since my car is lowered. I now had a hole in the in the side of the trans that needed closing. Upon searching I had found mention of such a situation on another message board by a member who gave me the idea on how to remedy this. I take no credit for this aside from mentioning the part numbers I used. I brushed on some Permatex High Tack "Purple" sealant and installed the expansion (freeze) plug.

The CAGS solenoid I wanted to remove as it wasn't used and I disliked having it just hanging on the side of the trans (my OCD kicking in again). There is no other reason it needed to be removed, it can remain there with no ill effects. I took the O-ring off the base of the CAGS solenoid and put it on the oil drain plug, then installed the plug (no gasket, just the O-ring). Anyway, here are the part #'s I used with success:

Reverse Lockout Delete:

Dorman 555-086 (Cylinder Head Plug / 1-3/16" OD)

CAGS Delete:

Dorman 090-040 (M20-1.50 Oil Drain Plug / 1986-83 Horizon - 4 cyl 1.6L)
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 09:23 PM
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Good info, thanks for putting it up where the rest of us could get it too!
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 10:53 AM
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Good to know. I am a little ocd too and will probably remove them. Thanks for posting that.
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 11:00 AM
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Great info, thanks so much!

Does any of you have a t56 that don't need anymore???

Last edited by LSfan70s; Jan 25, 2008 at 11:00 AM. Reason: typing mistake
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 11:54 AM
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Glad to see it may help some!
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 12:21 PM
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If it matters to anyone...

Reverse Lockout Solenoid weighs 1.00lb

CAGS Solenoid weighs 0.60lb
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 12:36 PM
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Did you fabricate some sort of spring for the reverse lockout? I drove a T56 without the reverse lockout solenoid in place - once going into 6th and reverse are pretty much the same without one.
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 01:51 PM
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No, just removed it. I need to do some revising of my plan to remove it though as I keep getting PM'ed to no end about the horror stories of running my T56 without one and the problems that can arise. I certainly do not want to kill the trans so I need to see how else I can tackle this problem.
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 02:42 PM
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You will want to have something in there or else you WILL end up shifting into reverse instead of 6th and that can ruin your whole day
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Old Apr 3, 2008 | 06:17 PM
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The reverse lockout only needs power when you are shifting into reverse, I googled this and a couple of guys wired the switch to the power wire that is triggered when you depress the brake pedal. Then just ground the other wire accordingly. I can't think of a time when you wouldn't put the brake on to shift into reverse. Seems like it would work well.
Ben
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Old Apr 4, 2008 | 04:56 AM
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Does anyone have a wiring diagram or atleast know which pin goes to what in order to get the reverse lock out to function?
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Old Jul 23, 2008 | 10:35 AM
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Could you possibly run a lighter spring in the reverse lockout like some people do but somehow rig the spring to rest on a block off plate to get the solenoid out of the way? I need the room in my swap if possible, this is the route i am going to try but i haven't disassembled my reverse lockout to see if this is a possibility.
anyone?
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Old Jul 23, 2008 | 11:45 AM
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I just ran a Hurst line lock T-Handle or switch to a Ign hot +12v (can use a relay if want) to one term and grounded the other.. no problem in the last 1 1/2 years.
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Old Jul 23, 2008 | 02:39 PM
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Why do people keep saying 6th and reverse as reverse is north not south. So it would be reverse and 5th that would be the issue with out a lock out.
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Old Jul 23, 2008 | 03:26 PM
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i have a carb setup, i just push in the clutch and shift into reverse. its not hard at all.
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Old Aug 31, 2008 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by onebad82z
I took the O-ring off the base of the CAGS solenoid and put it on the oil drain plug, then installed the plug (no gasket, just the O-ring). Anyway, here are the part #'s I used with success:
CAGS Delete:
Dorman 090-040 (M20-1.50 Oil Drain Plug / 1986-83 Horizon - 4 cyl 1.6L)
I couldn't find the Dorman part around here but got something similar and discovered I am only engaged 2-3 threads (using o-ring). Is that what you found with the Dorman part also? Guess it will work ok - would just like a few more threads engaged. -Bob
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Old Sep 1, 2008 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by BBPanel
I am only engaged 2-3 threads (using o-ring). Is that what you found with the Dorman part also?-Bob
That is what I have as well. More threads would be nicer but it is up high and no leaks to date.
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 09:46 AM
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I added a heavier spring to my lockout, so that it takes appreciable force to move it (no solenoid, won't fit). I then used an aluminum NPT thread plug that I cut down slightly and sealed to plug the hole. No worried about a 6th -> Reverse shift, and it's still plenty easy to put into gear when you mean it.
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by digitalsolo
I added a heavier spring to my lockout, so that it takes appreciable force to move it (no solenoid, won't fit). I then used an aluminum NPT thread plug that I cut down slightly and sealed to plug the hole.
Ok, I guess I need a pic - if you remove the solenoid where are you putting the spring? I'd like to remove my solenoid for fitment issues also. -Bob
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by onebad82z
That is what I have as well. More threads would be nicer but it is up high and no leaks to date.
I did this to fix that..I figure that with some Teflon Tape and some Black RTV will work.

Oil Drain Plug with Flange ground off..
Name:  SKIPSHIFTDELETE2.jpg
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Name:  SKIPSHIFTDELETE.jpg
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