john 67

After a few trial and errors I have completed my ac relocation brackets .I had to use the main belt to drive the compressor.Initially i wanted to use the stock single ac belt but it wouldnt allow the compressor to be installed without notching the chasis. Clearence is about 1/4" by the back of the compressor. I used March Performance idler pulleys.

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

Wow those turned out really great! Which pan are you using looks like S&P modified?

john 67

thanks , yes its a s&p pan .

radrambler

iTrader: (2)

wow

those turned out great....do you have templates available ?or could you?
could you show a pic of the whole motor and what you did with the alternator....

great job
radrambler

rao

iTrader: (18)

Very nice

Jaysz28

iTrader: (19)

Very impressive!

What chassis is that in? I know you said 'A-body'

Is that the stock compressor? You stated LS2, so are the other accessories ls2 as well?

Very nice work! I would have loved to have gone that route with my ac swap.... maybe next time for my Sonoma swap!

-jason

john 67

here's a pic of the complete drive. its an 06 vette drive . i could trace the templates but as far as getting the tubing part of it on paper , i dont know. i guess the hardest one was the one that holds the idler pulleys , i cut some of it myself then i had a friend of a friend cut the rest .it would definitley be something for someone that had a machine shop could make in quanity in mass, and cheap.the car isnt running yet but the alignment seems o k ( i used a flat piece of aluminum that fit into the main pulley snugly then held the compressor in line with the aluminum , then tacked the tubing to the steel that was bolted onto the block ) the chasis is a 67 chevelle conv. the compressor is a sanden 508 for a vintage air unit . thanks for the compliments, JOHN

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

I thought that looked like an S&P thats a bummer for me I am using the stock f-body so it would still be hitting the crossmemeber. Still thats very nice work though.

john 67

I did use the s & p catalog for some of my idea . Is the f body acc.drive closer to the block? if so i dont thint this would work.It's clears the front crossmember by about 1/4". JOHN

SatisTraction

iTrader: (2)

they look great but i hope you have enough crank wrap on the belt. I suspect it may slip and throw.

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

No I was saying that I have an F-body oil pan so my engine is sitting back a couple inches further than yours so probably not as much room on the from. I do have F-body accessories as well.

Stu Cool

iTrader: (13)

I was thinking the same thing, I guess you will find out. Nice workmanship for sure.

Pat

john 67

Pete my pass. side head is about 3/4" from the firewall if i remember correctly. Where does yours sit? As far as the wrap it is pretty close to the original location. I could move the bottom idler up a bit if needed.

1970-Cloned

iTrader: (1)

That turned out very nice. Way to spend the time and effort to not notch the frame! I figured you would get it done and am very happy you got it done. I thought about doing something similar but did not want to invest that much time into it.

Ben-

radrambler

iTrader: (2)

thanks
for showing the full engine pic. your steup looks great.
if you could trace the templates or brackets and measure the two tube lengths that would give a huge headstart on my setup.i cant use the factory brackets so i have to make mine. if you can do this let me know and ill pm you my address....
thanks for the help

radrambler

Nashty

iTrader: (7)

Very nice, I want to use the same style of compressor but I was thinking of rear straight outlets, not the 90º style. Thought that might give me more clearance, Clarence.

How much were the idlers? Any reason you didn't use stock ones other than looks?

And I'm down for a set of the paper traced templates. If you do trace them on paper, could you put a ruler measurement on them so I don't goof up with the scaling? Or if you had someone laser/waterjet them, do they still have the program to whip us out a set?

john 67

yes I'll get a set of templates going , I'll need a few days so I can get all the measurements correct. I searched for days for stock style idler pulleys but there were none that were smooth and had "keepers" on them . The March pullers are really nice. the plate that holds the idlers was cut with a sawzall, a holesaw and a plasma cutter ( the open part between the compressor bolt holes ), and finally a grinder.It would be nice if someone around here had a weterjet or some other tool to make up some of these with a little less time than all the cutting. Also may I add this has not been tested .JOHN

john 67

oh yeah i originally started out with a rear exit comp. which wouldnt work. the idlers were about 80$ each from summit

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

I ended up with about 1/4" to 3/8" between the back of the head and the firewall. Looks like you have the corvette front drive setup and I have the F-body. If I recall correctly the F-body accessories are a bit further away from the block than the vette setup, if so this setup may actually work for me.

Chevy-art

iTrader: (4)

Nice, can't wait to see the templates.