A-Body 6.0/5.3 Ford p/s pulley swap pics
#42
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Another update.
The ford pump is not available new. And it's 2 degrees here with 12" of snow, so junkyards are not an option.
The mid 90s S10 (300-200) pulley referred to earlier in this thread comes back as the same size as the one on the 6.0/5.3.
The 3.1 pulley (300-201) is dished more than the 300-123 I tried, so it will probably clear the pump snout, but the diameter is the same so it looks like it will contact the pump mounting bolts.
I'm going to get some allen head button screws and see if they clear the 300-201 pulley.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=aor4ln
Any other options?
The ford pump is not available new. And it's 2 degrees here with 12" of snow, so junkyards are not an option.
The mid 90s S10 (300-200) pulley referred to earlier in this thread comes back as the same size as the one on the 6.0/5.3.
The 3.1 pulley (300-201) is dished more than the 300-123 I tried, so it will probably clear the pump snout, but the diameter is the same so it looks like it will contact the pump mounting bolts.
I'm going to get some allen head button screws and see if they clear the 300-201 pulley.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=aor4ln
Any other options?
Last edited by garys 68; 01-21-2011 at 09:33 AM.
#46
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I got a pulley off of I think a 3.1 or 3.4l pontiac or buick or some other such thing. One of the million variants on the same GM theme from a couple decades ago. It seemed okay during my test fit, but won't know for 100% for another couple weeks. They are plentiful and cheap so I'm just throwing it out there.
#48
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I stand corrected, the 3.1, Doorman 300-201 is contoured a little different and gave more clearance to the bolts.
But since the pulley has to be pushed on past the end of the shaft....and my puller might not reach it to remove the pulley...and it was going to be close.....
I picked up some allen head button bolts. Plenty of clearance with these.
![](http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b135/rdoact/DSCN0230.jpg)
Installed.
But since the pulley has to be pushed on past the end of the shaft....and my puller might not reach it to remove the pulley...and it was going to be close.....
I picked up some allen head button bolts. Plenty of clearance with these.
![](http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b135/rdoact/DSCN0230.jpg)
Installed.
![](http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b135/rdoact/DSCN0232.jpg)
#50
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I have to find the right powersteering puller..I broke that pulley trying to get it on.. the threads in the pump are different than any other one I've used. I bought a new puller and it still didn't work. ![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
I'll buy another pulley and try again.
I made a idler bracket to make up for the one removed by the throttlebody.
I'll take some more pic's tomorrow that show more.
Thanks for the added info guys,
Scott~
![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
I'll buy another pulley and try again.
I made a idler bracket to make up for the one removed by the throttlebody.
I'll take some more pic's tomorrow that show more.
Thanks for the added info guys,
Scott~
![](https://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs069.snc6/167989_10150398525445082_568790081_17148476_3856141_n.jpg)
#51
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Here are the pic's.
You need to shave the entire area below to the same level... (take material away)
So the plate will sit flat and you can use the same stock bolts.
![](http://www.michaelrenz.com/upload/files/Bracket.jpg)
Below is the finished bracket... I welded a nut down under the steel so the pulley just bolts on.
On the back of the pulley.. it has a spacer. I stacked 2 spacers so it would be the correct spacing to
line up with the rest of the pulleys.
You need to shave the entire area below to the same level... (take material away)
So the plate will sit flat and you can use the same stock bolts.
![](http://www.michaelrenz.com/upload/files/Bracket.jpg)
Below is the finished bracket... I welded a nut down under the steel so the pulley just bolts on.
On the back of the pulley.. it has a spacer. I stacked 2 spacers so it would be the correct spacing to
line up with the rest of the pulleys.
![](http://www.michaelrenz.com/upload/files/Bracket2.jpg)
#53
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I just bough the cheap harbor freight puller/installer kit, worked fine.
http://www.harborfreight.com/pulley-...set-40749.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/pulley-...set-40749.html
I have to find the right powersteering puller..I broke that pulley trying to get it on.. the threads in the pump are different than any other one I've used. I bought a new puller and it still didn't work. ![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
I'll buy another pulley and try again.
I made a idler bracket to make up for the one removed by the throttlebody.
I'll take some more pic's tomorrow that show more.
Thanks for the added info guys,
Scott~
![](https://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs069.snc6/167989_10150398525445082_568790081_17148476_3856141_n.jpg)
![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
I'll buy another pulley and try again.
I made a idler bracket to make up for the one removed by the throttlebody.
I'll take some more pic's tomorrow that show more.
Thanks for the added info guys,
Scott~
![](https://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs069.snc6/167989_10150398525445082_568790081_17148476_3856141_n.jpg)
#54
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OK.. figured out a way to just pull the stock F-body water pump pulley out enough to line up with the truck bracket belt allignment.
You need to use a pinion bearing removal tool to grip the nose of the waterpump pulley (Since they didn't give us anything else to grab onto.)
Once that has clamped onto the pulley.. I used a steering wheel puller to grab onto the pinion tool and pulled the waterpump pulley forward just enough to line up with the belt edge.
Complete setup/bracket/pump ect.
![](http://www.michaelrenz.com/upload/files/WAGPulley2.jpg)
How far to pull Water pump pulley out (F-body)
![](http://www.michaelrenz.com/upload/files/WAGPulley1.jpg)
Tools I used:
![](http://www.michaelrenz.com/upload/files/WAGPuller1.jpg)
You need to use a pinion bearing removal tool to grip the nose of the waterpump pulley (Since they didn't give us anything else to grab onto.)
Once that has clamped onto the pulley.. I used a steering wheel puller to grab onto the pinion tool and pulled the waterpump pulley forward just enough to line up with the belt edge.
Complete setup/bracket/pump ect.
![](http://www.michaelrenz.com/upload/files/WAGPulley2.jpg)
How far to pull Water pump pulley out (F-body)
![](http://www.michaelrenz.com/upload/files/WAGPulley1.jpg)
Tools I used:
![](http://www.michaelrenz.com/upload/files/WAGPuller1.jpg)
![](http://www.michaelrenz.com/upload/files/WAGPuller.jpg)
#57
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The Ford pulleys are discontinued by Ford and no one makes a replacement.
I searched 2 yards and all the 4.9L 93-96 Ford E-150's I found had a different pulley on them.
Ford part # E8UA-3D673-BA (Wrong size)
I did find the proper E7UA-3D673-FB pulley on 4 different 95 and 96 E-150/250's with 5.8L V8's.
The GM part # 12607307 (Dorman 300-201) Pulley didn't work too well IMO for a few reasons.
#1 You have to press it on so far past the shaft tip that you can't remove it easily. (see pics in thread)
#2. You have to use spacers between the pump and bracket to get the pulley to line up.
(Otherwise you're roughly 1.5mm shy of the lineup point with it bottomed out)
#3. Using the washers between the pump and bracket, you end up causing a tilt
between the engine and the accessory bracket at the bottom of it.
I searched 2 yards and all the 4.9L 93-96 Ford E-150's I found had a different pulley on them.
Ford part # E8UA-3D673-BA (Wrong size)
I did find the proper E7UA-3D673-FB pulley on 4 different 95 and 96 E-150/250's with 5.8L V8's.
The GM part # 12607307 (Dorman 300-201) Pulley didn't work too well IMO for a few reasons.
#1 You have to press it on so far past the shaft tip that you can't remove it easily. (see pics in thread)
#2. You have to use spacers between the pump and bracket to get the pulley to line up.
(Otherwise you're roughly 1.5mm shy of the lineup point with it bottomed out)
#3. Using the washers between the pump and bracket, you end up causing a tilt
between the engine and the accessory bracket at the bottom of it.
Last edited by Aceshigh; 06-26-2011 at 05:46 PM.
#58
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Let us know how it works. 1/2" smaller would not have given me enough clearance with the way I mounted my motor and the Olds steering box. Even with the 300-201 5 3/16" pulley, I ground off one of the steering box bolt heads. The jeep box I swapped in did give about 1/4" more clearance.
Be sure to post some pics.
Be sure to post some pics.
#59
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I put the 3 pulleys together to see the differences.
Excuse the crappy pics my point n shoot's battery was dead.
Far Left = GM Pulley that matches Dorman 300-201
Middle = Ford E-150 E7UA-3D673-FB pulley
Far right = Stock GM Vortec pulley off my 6.0L
![](http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/Aceshigh22/Olds%20442/2011-06-24171157.jpg)
Here's where the difference is though. I used a white sheet of paper as a backdrop to show the gap better.
Flat surface across the top pulley to get an accurate assessment in height difference.
LEFT = Ford Pulley - 1 3/4" Height, rear depth is 3/4"
RIGHT = GM Vortec Pulley - 1 13/16" Height , rear depth is 13/16"
Only roughly a 1/16" mounting difference in depth and the height is 1/16" shorter.
Total of 1/8" difference on the shaft. (Very close match this was a good find by the OP)
![](http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/Aceshigh22/Olds%20442/2011-06-24171620.jpg)
LEFT = GM pulley (Dorman 300-201) - 1 3/8" Height and 5/8" rear depth
RIGHT = GM Vortec Pulley - 1 13/16" Height , rear depth is 13/16"
Roughly a 3/16" difference in mounting depth, (this is why it bottoms out before lining up, need spacers to correct, but tilt is a result)
and a height difference of 7/16". Total of 5/8" difference on the shaft (This is why it's hard to line up)
Excuse the crappy pics my point n shoot's battery was dead.
Far Left = GM Pulley that matches Dorman 300-201
Middle = Ford E-150 E7UA-3D673-FB pulley
Far right = Stock GM Vortec pulley off my 6.0L
![](http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/Aceshigh22/Olds%20442/2011-06-24171157.jpg)
Here's where the difference is though. I used a white sheet of paper as a backdrop to show the gap better.
Flat surface across the top pulley to get an accurate assessment in height difference.
LEFT = Ford Pulley - 1 3/4" Height, rear depth is 3/4"
RIGHT = GM Vortec Pulley - 1 13/16" Height , rear depth is 13/16"
Only roughly a 1/16" mounting difference in depth and the height is 1/16" shorter.
Total of 1/8" difference on the shaft. (Very close match this was a good find by the OP)
![](http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/Aceshigh22/Olds%20442/2011-06-24171620.jpg)
LEFT = GM pulley (Dorman 300-201) - 1 3/8" Height and 5/8" rear depth
RIGHT = GM Vortec Pulley - 1 13/16" Height , rear depth is 13/16"
Roughly a 3/16" difference in mounting depth, (this is why it bottoms out before lining up, need spacers to correct, but tilt is a result)
and a height difference of 7/16". Total of 5/8" difference on the shaft (This is why it's hard to line up)
![](http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/Aceshigh22/Olds%20442/2011-06-24171639.jpg)
Last edited by Aceshigh; 06-26-2011 at 05:43 PM.
#60
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I found another pulley that works on the truck power steering pumps and installs flush on the front of the shaft so no washers needed. i had it laying around from an 86 camaro i use to own but from looking up the part number 14100597 that's on it i found it came on a whole slew of gm cars and trucks. from a quick search there are some company's still selling them used online.[IMG]
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![](http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo149/sherman8r/2011-09-16173654-Copy.jpg)
![](http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo149/sherman8r/2011-09-16182419-Copy.jpg)
![](http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo149/sherman8r/2011-09-16182231-Copy.jpg)
Last edited by sherman8r; 09-16-2011 at 07:21 PM. Reason: add pic