Still no Signal at Injectors ?!?
11-16-2008, 09:36 PM
#22
Teching In
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i just started my 07 5.3 motor to day after having the same problem, what i did was installed the interior wire harness to get the b.c.m. and the wiring the from the steering colume, had a key cut and reprogramed it to the system, then it fire up ,also the interior wiring has a improtant grounds that power up the b.c.m to the e.c.m. I try to bypass it before i did all this but I just could not due to being a can bus signal. hope this helps
11-18-2008, 06:26 PM
#24
On The Tree
Thread Starter
......Bad Crank Sensor? Ok - talked to jesse @ wait 4 me again. Only other thing he could think of was a bad crank sensor not sending signal to ECU so it won't fire injectors...? He said if the tach needle doesn't move, I'm probably not getting a signal from the crank sensor. I need to know if this can be true or not. Hooked up my gauges and the tach need doesnt move. I never checked psi w/ a gauge while cranking so i did that too & I have around 53psi cranking. STILL SEEMS LIKE ECM to me.
I started checking wires w/ a test light. Using the test light, if I manually give a ground to the neg side of the injector wires and they open and put gas in the cylinder. I start it and in cranks and runs for a few seconds (never reads on tach while running)- seemingly until it runs the gas out of the cylinder I just manually out there. Still never get a signal from ECU w/ a noid light.
So...new question is that if I can power the injectors as I've done and it will crank & run - could I have a bad crank sensor?
It still seems like I have a computer issue. This guy Jesse @ wait 4 me is such a ***** to talk to I don't know what to do next. I understand he may be busy but this guy, outright saying he is smarter than all the "others" I am using for help, and his higher than mighty could NEVER make a mistake attitude is too damn much. I'd rather have paid another $50 or $60 to have Current Performance or someone else tune my ECU and not have to deal w/ this guy.
I'm at my wit's end here. If I can get some input on the crank sensor - I guess I have no other choice but to send him the ECU back to make sure its right. I'm afraid he wouldn't even admit it if there is a mistake on his part if that is the case.
I started checking wires w/ a test light. Using the test light, if I manually give a ground to the neg side of the injector wires and they open and put gas in the cylinder. I start it and in cranks and runs for a few seconds (never reads on tach while running)- seemingly until it runs the gas out of the cylinder I just manually out there. Still never get a signal from ECU w/ a noid light.
So...new question is that if I can power the injectors as I've done and it will crank & run - could I have a bad crank sensor?
It still seems like I have a computer issue. This guy Jesse @ wait 4 me is such a ***** to talk to I don't know what to do next. I understand he may be busy but this guy, outright saying he is smarter than all the "others" I am using for help, and his higher than mighty could NEVER make a mistake attitude is too damn much. I'd rather have paid another $50 or $60 to have Current Performance or someone else tune my ECU and not have to deal w/ this guy.
I'm at my wit's end here. If I can get some input on the crank sensor - I guess I have no other choice but to send him the ECU back to make sure its right. I'm afraid he wouldn't even admit it if there is a mistake on his part if that is the case.
11-18-2008, 07:37 PM
#28
If the engine RAN after you grounded the injectors to "prime it" with fuel, It was getting spark. i would assume there is no problem with the crank sensor. Can you keep it running with carb/choke cleaner??
As for tach not reading. I'm not sure how it is on the 07, but most 03+ pcm's need to have a resistor added to the tach signal circuit to 12v+ to make the tach signal strong enough for some tachs.
Sounds like a vats issue, however, most let engine run for a few seconds then die.
good luck. I assume this is a 2007 new body engine. Or is it the classic, with blue/green PCM connectors?
As for tach not reading. I'm not sure how it is on the 07, but most 03+ pcm's need to have a resistor added to the tach signal circuit to 12v+ to make the tach signal strong enough for some tachs.
Sounds like a vats issue, however, most let engine run for a few seconds then die.
good luck. I assume this is a 2007 new body engine. Or is it the classic, with blue/green PCM connectors?
11-19-2008, 01:14 AM
#30
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Its always cranked - never fired.
It's a new body style 07.
I haven't had the computer checked yet b/c I wanted to rule out every other possibility b/c Wait 4 Me says it can't be wrong. Should I send it back to him or have someone else check? This is BS. Should I have someone who is more comfortable doing 07 & later swaps do the ECU?
It's a new body style 07.
I haven't had the computer checked yet b/c I wanted to rule out every other possibility b/c Wait 4 Me says it can't be wrong. Should I send it back to him or have someone else check? This is BS. Should I have someone who is more comfortable doing 07 & later swaps do the ECU?
11-19-2008, 07:15 AM
#31
TECH Resident
Ask the guys at CPW if they will just look at the file for no charge to see if indeed the VATS is still active.
P.S., I am going to make sure I say VATS in every post I can from now on, no matter what.
P.S., I am going to make sure I say VATS in every post I can from now on, no matter what.
11-19-2008, 07:31 AM
#32
Launching!
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....I only say it because everyone on ls1tech seems to link that every vehicle has VATS...You should give me the exact make and model of your truck so I can take a look at a wiring diagram. Sometimes you can simply manually bypass them without remote start bypasses or anything, just plain giving the PCM the right signal at the right wires. Let me know, thanks.Sam
11-19-2008, 01:46 PM
#33
On The Tree
Thread Starter
I have no idea who CPW is. Willing to give it a shot though. It was a 2007 Silverado 2wd w/ 5.3L/4 sp Auto. Not sure but think LT. LY5,
vin# 1GCEC19J07Z602336
vin# 1GCEC19J07Z602336
11-20-2008, 08:31 AM
#38
VATS isnt a generic term, it's a specific anti-theft system used by GM in older vehicles, it has since been updated and renamed, Ford uses PATS (Passive Anitheft System)...same deal with limited slip differentials, everyone calls them "posi's" or "positrac" systems regardless of vehicle manufacture, Ford, Dodge etc.. but "Positraction" was the name coined by GM in the 60's for their limted slip systems
