Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 02:42 PM
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Angry LS1 Swap

Okay, i bought a 2001 ls1 out of a camaro, my plans being to swap it into a 1972 chevy c10. I bought CPP perch engine mounts, and the adapter plates to swith the engine mount style over. I just finally got around to tes fitting the engine and now im having major clerance problems with the oil pan touching the front crossmember. I also had to take my stock exhaust manifolds off to get it close to fitting. im a little pissed for two reasons, one - i wanted to use my stock manifolds 2 - it doesnt f'n fit!!. I just spent 2 hours trying to find a solution on here, but i cant find anything. These are my thoughts, let me know what you think. Drill new holes and mount the perch mounts about 1.5"s back, or notch the crossmember. or spend a bunck of money and get new mounts. How did you guys get your engine to fit????
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 02:52 PM
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you are probably going to have to notch the oil pan, use an lh8 pan, or cts-v pan to get it to fit.

Look at the sticky's on the top of the forum.

U could probably get by with the lh8 pan considering u probably don't have ground clearance problems being up higher with your truck.

The lh8 pan kit :

lh8 oil pan 19212593

is on national back order from GM.

But BRP hotrods lists them for $249 will probably be the easiest solution for u.

good luck
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 03:52 PM
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I put a 5.3 in a 68 a couple of years ago, so I can tell you that a truck pan will fit without having to notch anything. I made my own mounts, so I just put the engine where it fit the best, but was real close to where the original small block was. Truck pans are everywhere, and cheap, just remember to get the oil pick up tube for what ever pan you use. Also, I used the truck manifolds which stick out further from the engine than ls1 manifolds, so I don't see why they wouldn't fit.
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 04:01 PM
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switch sides with the brackets. I take and cut the k member for easy access to removing the pan but thats the only reason. I cut the complete center and make a drop down in the member with a piece of roll cage material box both ends
Originally Posted by ls1nova71
I put a 5.3 in a 68 a couple of years ago, so I can tell you that a truck pan will fit without having to notch anything. I made my own mounts, so I just put the engine where it fit the best, but was real close to where the original small block was. Truck pans are everywhere, and cheap, just remember to get the oil pick up tube for what ever pan you use. Also, I used the truck manifolds which stick out further from the engine than ls1 manifolds, so I don't see why they wouldn't fit.
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 04:09 PM
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Don't get discouraged, conversions tend to be one challenge followed by another. That's what makes them so satisfying when you are done. You already have a couple ideas from folks on how to solve this problem. Just stick with it, be creative and learn as you go. I think I had my engine in and out at least a dozen times before I finally got it where it would work. Good luck with it, you'll get 'er done!

Pat
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 04:10 PM
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i have an LM7(5.3) truck pan and pickup tube.

and i NEED an LS1 camaro pan and tube...

would you be interested in a straight up trade if it would help with your clearance issues
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by flirtnwithdisaster
switch sides with the brackets. I take and cut the k member for easy access to removing the pan but thats the only reason. I cut the complete center and make a drop down in the member with a piece of roll cage material box both ends
Do you have pictures??
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 07:38 PM
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after looking at an f-body pan and a truck pan.. it would definitly help you out....

i took some pics if you needed some measurements. its a 2000 LM7 truck pan






i have one to swap you.. i'll pay shipping both ways....or its forsale also... included is the windage tray thing and pickup.

Last edited by white93z28; Nov 30, 2008 at 08:06 PM.
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 08:22 PM
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white93z28 - I have an F-body brand spanking new pan and tube if your interested.
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 09:06 PM
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Update, i drilled two holes in the crossmember, roughly 1.5 inchs back, and presto, it fit perfect. I messured against the firewall aswell and it should look awesome. thanks for the input everyone.. i took some pictures, i'll put them up here
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 09:09 PM
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I think you will be glad you stuck with the f-body pan, even in my truck, 69 c-10 the truck pan hangs below the crossmember some. I don't know if you are going to lower it alot, but you will probably be glad you did the extra work.
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 10:21 PM
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bagged with drop spindles, thats why i wanted my pan
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 11:25 PM
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ahh... i was thinking a 4x4.

might try doing a block spacer between the frame and frame side mounts. could gain you a bit of clearance.
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 11:32 PM
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Sometimes you hit a snag man, it happens to all of us. I decided to use Conversion Mounts with my project, and when the time came to mount the Engine, the Block Mounts were 1/2" wider than the K-Member Mounts. I had to unbolt the ones off of the K-Member and notch them out so they would slide out.

Just one of them things..
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 12:07 AM
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Worked for me. Added bonus, should cost about an inch and a half less for a drive shaft
Attached Thumbnails LS1 Swap-clearance.jpg   LS1 Swap-modperch.jpg   LS1 Swap-modperch2.jpg  
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