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Miro's LS1 240 Drift Build

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Old 01-14-2009, 07:03 PM
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W o w ! !
Old 01-16-2009, 07:18 PM
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I have never been to ls1tech.com before, never would have otherwise, but registered just to watch this build!

keep it up... no really, do werk.
Old 01-18-2009, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by kirkis9
I have never been to ls1tech.com before, never would have otherwise, but registered just to watch this build!

keep it up... no really, do werk.
Haha. Thanks dude. Work is being done.


Bending the main hoop.




Main hoop and diagonal brace done. Measuring for harness bar height.






Main hoop done and welded in car.






Rear braces done, but still looks a bit flimsy.




Ah, much better.


Started working on front base plates.
Old 01-20-2009, 03:06 AM
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nice build
Old 01-20-2009, 08:42 AM
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Nice job on the cage! God I hope I get my car home this weekend!
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Old 01-20-2009, 12:42 PM
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dude i ran out of words to say....
Old 01-20-2009, 02:03 PM
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Holy jungle gym batman! Nice cage work.
Old 01-20-2009, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by BMR Sales2
Nice job on the cage! God I hope I get my car home this weekend!
Thanks. Where is your car?

Originally Posted by jfg455
Holy jungle gym batman! Nice cage work.
Haha. Jungle gym indeed. I had to get in some pretty impressive positions to weld all those bars 360 degrees around.

My friend Eulises (owner of the other S13 in the garage) has been helping me with notching some of the tubes and positioning stuff in the car while I weld. So big thanks to him for helping me move along a bit quicker. His car is going to come out so nice since we'll have the experience of my car... heh. Hopefully the cage will be done by end of next weekend.
Old 01-21-2009, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by miro
Thanks. Where is your car?
Its at the guys house im buying it from, but its coming home this weekend!
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Old 01-21-2009, 09:02 AM
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Damn man nice job so far. Cant wait to see once its done!!!!
Old 01-23-2009, 09:49 AM
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So while I'm working on the cage, I've been getting parts together to start work on the engine so that there are no delays once the chassis is done.

I want to send out the PCM soon to make sure I get it back by the time the engine is going in. I'm getting a list together of things that need to be deleted/changed on the PCM to start and run the car. Here's what I have so far:

* VATS
* Rear O2 sensor codes
* Skip Shift (CAGS)
* EVAP system codes (I'm removing the EVAP system and will probably use a vented gas tank cap.)
* Fuel tank pressure sensor
* Fuel level sensor
* AIR system codes
* EGR system codes
* A/C system codes
* Speed limiter
* Fan on and off temperature (I'm going to install a 160 degree thermostat. What should I use for the fan on and off temps? Anyone know what the stock settings are off the top of their head?)
* Tire height: 25.4 in (I don't think the tire height and final gear are relevant since they're probably only used for speed calculation. I'm not installing a speedometer, so this probably doesn't matter, but just in case.)
* Final gear: 4.083

Is there anything that I've missed or that is incorrect?

Also, can anyone recommend a good "mail tuning" company that they've had experience with? Right now, I'm leaning towards Wait4Me Performance.
Old 01-23-2009, 04:57 PM
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rev limiter?
Old 01-23-2009, 05:45 PM
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Miro why you deleting these?
* Skip Shift (CAGS)
* AIR system codes

can you explain this?
* EVAP system codes (I'm removing the EVAP system and will probably use a vented gas tank cap.)

why? how are you going to keep track on your fuel level?
(* Fuel tank pressure sensor,* Fuel level sensor)
Old 01-23-2009, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by UsJdmtuner
Miro why you deleting these?
* Skip Shift (CAGS)
* AIR system codes

can you explain this?
* EVAP system codes (I'm removing the EVAP system and will probably use a vented gas tank cap.)

why? how are you going to keep track on your fuel level?
(* Fuel tank pressure sensor,* Fuel level sensor)
Stock setup is return style, it doesn't need a pressure sensor in the tank, fuel level will work fine.
Old 01-23-2009, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by themachasy
Stock setup is return style, it doesn't need a pressure sensor in the tank, fuel level will work fine.
I thought I read somewhere that there was a tank pressure sensor that the PCM used to decide when to open the EVAP solenoid. (I'm referring to the vapor pressure in the tank, not the fuel pressure in the lines.) Could be wrong on this, just trying to get it straight. I'll read the FSM later and see what I can find.

Last edited by miro; 01-23-2009 at 11:04 PM.
Old 01-25-2009, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by UsJdmtuner
Miro why you deleting these?
* Skip Shift (CAGS)
* AIR system codes

can you explain this?
* EVAP system codes (I'm removing the EVAP system and will probably use a vented gas tank cap.)

why? how are you going to keep track on your fuel level?
(* Fuel tank pressure sensor,* Fuel level sensor)
Skip shift is a "fuel-saving" feature that forces you to shift from 2nd directly to 5th gear under low load driving conditions. There's no need for that.

AIR valve is like that thing on 240s that attaches to the air box, which you removed and had me weld the opening in exhaust manifold. It introduces air into the exhaust ahead of the catalytic converters, which helps them heat up to operating temp. I don't need that.

The EVAP system is basically a connection between the gas tank and intake manifold. Venting fuel vapors into the air is apparently bad for the environment, so the vapors are vented through a line to the intake manifold where they can be burned. But keeping this system means running another line and other BS that I don't want to deal with. This line on the 240 goes into the carbon canister in engine bay, then into intake manifold.

Got some more work done on the cage this weekend.




I finished the front base plates. I made these triangular pedestal things so that I could mount the front down bars as close to the side of the car as possible and still be able to weld 360 degrees around the tubes. I welded the pedestals on top of a flat plate to keep the edges of the pedestals from punching through the sheet metal in a crash.


Got my Turn One power steering pump. This pump runs slower than the stock one, which will help keep the fluid from boiling/control cavitation at high RPM. I think pretty much every LS1 240 drift car I've heard of has fluid boiling/cavitation issues, so hopefully I can avoid this.




Yay. The fiberglass doors fit. Now just have to drill lots of mounting holes in them and figure out how to mount mirrors on them.




Tacked in the front down bars and windshield bar.


Then cut the tack welds on the front base plates and main hoop. I leaned the whole front section back so that I could weld on top of the windshield bar. Then, I welded everything back in.


First door bar is in. Also, Eulises kindly stripped all paint/rust off the driver floor. NICE.


Fast forward a bit, and all three horizontal door bars are in. The seat fits. I also fit.


The door fits too but is very close. I need to take a good pic from the top to see it.




And left side is done. It's exactly how I pictured it. (The front down bar is angled back purposely to clear the stock dash bar that holds the dashboard and steering column in place.)
Old 01-25-2009, 11:29 PM
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nice tube work
Old 01-26-2009, 05:23 AM
  #98  
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holy swweet angel... dude... roll cage of death... those door bars are jumongous!!! pretty impressive man...
Old 01-26-2009, 09:02 AM
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On that turn one pump, is it just the pulley that slows it or have they done something internal also?
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Old 01-26-2009, 09:41 AM
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Mel, door bars are awesome. It makes me feel like a real race car driver to get in NASCAR style. You need to come and try it.

The pump is blueprinted, and the internals are modified to reduce flow (although they don't say exactly how they modify them). This is a nice article comparing a stock pump and Turn One pump.

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...all/index.html

I think it will make a much bigger difference in drifting than what it showed in their autocross testing since the steering system is abused a lot more in drifting. Wait until you see the size of the power steering cooler I ordered... haha. I think people will mistake it for a radiator. I take my steering seriously.

I still have to measure the pulley to compare diameter (I'm pretty sure they're the same though), but the main selling point on that is that it's easy to remove the pump without taking the pulley off since it has holes in it. I just got it because it looks dangerous.


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