Miro's LS1 240 Drift Build
02-07-2009, 03:17 PM
#142
Teching In
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
02-11-2009, 11:33 AM
#149
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
02-16-2009, 11:52 PM
#150
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Lodi, NJ
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A few more minor things done:
Pulled the fenders. The pic above is with a 17x9 -5 with 225/45 tire. It fits with plenty of room; should be perfect with 18s and a bit less camber.
Hydraulic e-brake kit came in via Slidewayz.
Picked up some brand new 225/40R18 Dunlop DZ101s for a good price. I'll mount these on 18x9.5 practice wheels, which are coming soon.
Drilled inspection holes in each required bar in the cage. These are mandated so that the thickness of the tubing can be checked.
Made a new battery mount. I drilled holes in the floor and welded nuts underneath the car to receive four bolts. The battery mount is the same thing I had before but made out of steel instead of aluminum.
Cut the dash bar in 50 places and finally got it to fit in the car.
I cut the ends off the dashboard so that it would fit in the car with the cage. Forgot to take a finished picture.
Welded in the base for the hydraulic e-brake on the transmission tunnel.
Made brackets for the Accusump on the transmission tunnel so that I can see the gauge from where I'm sitting. It's angled up in the rear to allow any air in the oil to travel up and escape through the line instead of getting trapped in the cylinder.
Made a bracket for the CM remote filter.
It's important to be comfortable while you're welding.
So the car didn't get painted this weekend as planned, but paint and all supplies will be in my hand tomorrow. There's still a lot of prep work to do, but it will DEFINITELY be painted next weekend. At least all welding is officially done.
Pulled the fenders. The pic above is with a 17x9 -5 with 225/45 tire. It fits with plenty of room; should be perfect with 18s and a bit less camber.
Hydraulic e-brake kit came in via Slidewayz.
Picked up some brand new 225/40R18 Dunlop DZ101s for a good price. I'll mount these on 18x9.5 practice wheels, which are coming soon.
Drilled inspection holes in each required bar in the cage. These are mandated so that the thickness of the tubing can be checked.
Made a new battery mount. I drilled holes in the floor and welded nuts underneath the car to receive four bolts. The battery mount is the same thing I had before but made out of steel instead of aluminum.
Cut the dash bar in 50 places and finally got it to fit in the car.
I cut the ends off the dashboard so that it would fit in the car with the cage. Forgot to take a finished picture.
Welded in the base for the hydraulic e-brake on the transmission tunnel.
Made brackets for the Accusump on the transmission tunnel so that I can see the gauge from where I'm sitting. It's angled up in the rear to allow any air in the oil to travel up and escape through the line instead of getting trapped in the cylinder.
Made a bracket for the CM remote filter.
It's important to be comfortable while you're welding.
So the car didn't get painted this weekend as planned, but paint and all supplies will be in my hand tomorrow. There's still a lot of prep work to do, but it will DEFINITELY be painted next weekend. At least all welding is officially done.
02-17-2009, 03:02 AM
#152
Apparently with skinny stretched tires and higher pressures = very little sidewall flex = easy to initiate slides? Also some go for the ridiculous uber-wide rim on way-too-skinny rim to get that look of the INSANE stretched tire... never really understood that style :S?!!!??!?!
02-17-2009, 06:48 AM
#153
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Lodi, NJ
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yep, the car should feel a little more snappy with a lot of stretch, but it's not a huge difference.
The reason why I want the tires stretched is because you can use a really low offset wheel (which looks awesome) and still get the tire to tuck into the fender with no rubbing. Stretching angles the sidewall so the tire tucks in easier.
The reason why I want the tires stretched is because you can use a really low offset wheel (which looks awesome) and still get the tire to tuck into the fender with no rubbing. Stretching angles the sidewall so the tire tucks in easier.
02-17-2009, 08:30 AM
#154
TECH Regular
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Miami, Florida
Posts: 474
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yep, the car should feel a little more snappy with a lot of stretch, but it's not a huge difference.
The reason why I want the tires stretched is because you can use a really low offset wheel (which looks awesome) and still get the tire to tuck into the fender with no rubbing. Stretching angles the sidewall so the tire tucks in easier.
The reason why I want the tires stretched is because you can use a really low offset wheel (which looks awesome) and still get the tire to tuck into the fender with no rubbing. Stretching angles the sidewall so the tire tucks in easier.
02-17-2009, 09:48 AM
#155
Lookin good!
__________________
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
02-18-2009, 10:10 AM
#159
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Lodi, NJ
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm not sure what you mean. I measured the interior and based the cage dimensions off that. Exact dimensions depend on what kind of cage you want and how much clearance you want between the cage and the body.
Some parts of the cage can be done just by trial and error. For example, to make the door bars curve outward,
I bent the ends of a bar to 8 degrees or something, then mocked it up in the car, then bent some more, mocked it up, etc. Once I was happy with that one bar, I made the rest of the door bars to about the same dimensions.
I made the main hoop just measuring the widths and angles (50" base, 39" at the top, 68 degree top bends, 22 degree side bends). I used a longer tube than necessary, then trimmed it once all the bends were done to get the height of the hoop right.
Anyway, hope this answers your question.
Some parts of the cage can be done just by trial and error. For example, to make the door bars curve outward,
I bent the ends of a bar to 8 degrees or something, then mocked it up in the car, then bent some more, mocked it up, etc. Once I was happy with that one bar, I made the rest of the door bars to about the same dimensions.
I made the main hoop just measuring the widths and angles (50" base, 39" at the top, 68 degree top bends, 22 degree side bends). I used a longer tube than necessary, then trimmed it once all the bends were done to get the height of the hoop right.
Anyway, hope this answers your question.
