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Not trying to egg you on here, but with a week to autocross, I'd consider dropping the tank and switching the return line. I looked at images of your in-tank fuel sump/reservoir from this post and estimate the dimensions at about 6inx6inx6in which makes the capacity about 1.7L. Your pump runs in the neighborhood of 300lph, so theoretically could empty that sump/reservoir in 21seconds. But when you're autocrossing you also have the issue of the rate of leakage out of all the refill holes at the bottom (looks like you have a lot of those!), sloshing, and the angle of the fuel resulting from lateral and accel/deccel Gs. Together I think they're really working against you, so bringing fuel back to the sump/reservoir would be a big benefit. It looks like your hanger is setup with fittings for it, so what would it really take? Dropping the tank and remaking the hose from the FPR to the tank? Could be worth the effort if it avoids a potentially damaging lean condition, but on the other hand you could just bring some gas cans and keep your tank topped off.
The more I think about it, the less I like my fuel system.
Here's where I screwed up - the return line tue was used to run the fuel sender wire, as the OE sender fitting was removed when the tank was modified, requiring it to be attached to the tray. So I'd have to modify the current vent, remove the one-way valve, and install a new return tube. While technically feasible, I might be better off pitching the assembly for a new GPA-series module from Tanks, Inc., if I can get it to plug into my Stealth 340 pump. Or I could try to burn out the sealant in the return line, and reroute the sender wire.
And worst-case, you could just sell your tank and buy the $250 Tanks Inc fuel injection tank. Like I said, I've heard good things about them, even guys autocrossing with them. 70novaSS has the fuel injection tank, so when we get his running we can report back on how it fares. And yes I'm going to get him on the autocross at Good Guys in March.
Ah I see the problem now. I don't think it really helps to buy a different hanger. You can probably just push that silicon plug right out of the tube and save the wire if you're careful. Then drill a hole and put in an isolated bulkhead/passthrough terminal for wiring the float sender. Perhaps a bit much to take on prior to your run.
You can probably just push that silicon plug right out of the tube and save the wire if you're careful. Then drill a hole and put in an isolated bulkhead/passthrough terminal for wiring the float sender.
I actually really like this idea. Easy enough to drill and install a bulkhead fitting.
To clarify, I'm talking about an electrical bulkhead, not a fluid bulkhead. Basically it's a screw that passes through a plastic isolator and accepts crimp-on ring terminals on the inside and outside. Notice where the +12V red power wire for the fuel pump attaches to my Tanks-Inc hanger in the photo below. You could do the same kind of thing for your float sender. In fact if you look at the factory float sender in my photo, it has the same kind of bulkhead.
To clarify, I'm talking about an electrical bulkhead, not a fluid bulkhead. Basically it's a screw that passes through a plastic isolator and accepts crimp-on ring terminals on the inside and outside. Notice where the +12V red power wire for the fuel pump attaches to my Tanks-Inc hanger in the photo below. You could do the same kind of thing for your float sender. In fact if you look at the factory float sender in my photo, it has the same kind of bulkhead.
So I'm having some rubbing at the subframe and inner fender at full lock. I know this could likely be remedied by a 1/8" spacer and proper camber (I still haven't had the zero camber fixed), but I noticed the rear of the inner fenders are a couple hundred thou off of the frame. Essentially, it seems that the rear of the tires hit the fenders at full lock, and push them into the frame.
I'm considering cutting the rear of the fenders, where they drop below the subframe. Has anyone done this?
Here are a couple photos to illustrate how the fender fits:
So I'm having some rubbing at the subframe and inner fender at full lock. I know this could likely be remedied by a 1/8" spacer and proper camber (I still haven't had the zero camber fixed), but I noticed the rear of the inner fenders are a couple hundred thou off of the frame. Essentially, it seems that the rear of the tires hit the fenders at full lock, and push them into the frame.
I'm considering cutting the rear of the fenders, where they drop below the subframe. Has anyone done this?
Here are a couple photos to illustrate how the fender fits:
The gap you see is not abnormal - there are lots of variables that contribute to the gap like subframe placement, fender shimming, hole clearances, etc. As far as trimming it, lots of guys don't run inner fenders at all. There's really no issue with trimming if it will gain you clearance, just consider you may get more splash/mud/dirt into your engine compartment.
The mud/dirt issue is why I plan to cut and not remove. I've already removed the leather splash guards, and I've seen a noticeable increase in dirt since. This should have a minimal impact, as I plan to cut only to the frame and massage the fender inward.
Could you describe how you routed your starter cable? I have been looking through photos and I can not see it anywhere. Did you run it inside the car and exit through the foot well area?
Could you describe how you routed your starter cable? I have been looking through photos and I can not see it anywhere. Did you run it inside the car and exit through the foot well area?
Autocross went well. No hiccups, though I topped it off on the way there. Sadly, I didn't make Friday so I couldn't run Saturday (only qualified cars were running for the Duel in the Desert). Then only got 2 runs in Sunday. It's going up on jack stands tomorrow for the fuel tank mod + adjusting the exhaust (it's hitting the crossmember).
I ran my main power wire down the passenger side to the relay center in the glovebox. The starter wire exits the back of the glovebox, over the evaporator, and out the firewall.
Update... Still having stalling issues at low rpm when hot. Example: It will die when I come to a stoplight after 20-30 minutes running around town. Pushing the throttle doesn't seem to help - it's almost like the ECM is cutting fuel completely. It immediately fires right up though, which is really odd.
I've fiddled with the throttle set screw, but it didn't seem to matter whether I opened or closed the butterfly.
I'll be checking fuel pressure this weekend. I also have an OBD scanner with an app on my tablet. There are no codes, but it doesn't show everything I'd have hoped. All else fails I'll pull the trigger on HPTuners to get some better data logging.
FINALLY got around to dropping the tank to redo the return line. Luckily, the RTV used to seal the fuel level wiring was easily removed using gasoline. The project will be very simple, with the only real expense being the braided fuel line, as I will take the opportunity to replace everything from the FPR back. I only need another 6AN-1/4NPT adapter in addition to the line. I'm also drilling a small hole in the tank to run a stud for the fuel gauge as described in this pirate4x4 post (obligatory: ).
Below is a big reason the Nova hasn't gotten much love. I also picked up a powder coating kit + small oven from a buddy at work; turns out that motorcycle parts are the perfect size for home powder coating.
Nice XS650. Bikes are WAY easier (and more fun IMO) to work on than cars. You can take the motor out with your bare hands! A single car garage is plenty of room to work in!
It's been fun, and a great way to get more into metal fab and CAD for all the small custom bits. And the thing's a freakin' hoot to ride. It's 90% ready to be stripped back down to powder coat the frame, though I may keep the derelict look for a little while before doing so.
I rerouted my return line to the proper fitting in the fuel sending unit, and made an electrical bulkhead fitting like Bandit mentioned above. Luckily, I was able to use leftover 6AN braided hose and fittings to move the FPR just forward of the tank, and cut my existing lines. The mod only cost me a $4 3/8NPT-6AN male-male fitting.
I took her to a car show today, and had zero issues with stalling (other than AC bogging it down at idle). Temp did hit 230* though, creeping in construction traffic. Apparently the LS2 doesn't kick fans to 100% until 228*, so I'm not as worried as I was in the moment.
Next up is to add functionality for the ECM to bump idle with AC on (AC request to red pin 17, ground to red pin 55).
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The project will be very simple, with the only real expense being the braided fuel line, as I will take the opportunity to replace everything from the FPR back. I only need another 6AN-1/4NPT adapter in addition to the line. I'm also drilling a small hole in the tank to run a stud for the fuel gauge as described in this pirate4x4 post (obligatory: 
).
