LQ4 in a 1971 Nova
#421
Great update ! Interior is coming together nicely.
You might also check the wheel axle bearings.
For driveline angle. Tremec has a free app for both iPhone and Andriod. Just search for "driveline angle". And just follow the instructions to get how everything is setting.
I also use a andriod app called "Clinometer" to find what the engine and rear end angled were. it helped on getting my front end close so i could drive it until i took it to the shop.
BC
You might also check the wheel axle bearings.
For driveline angle. Tremec has a free app for both iPhone and Andriod. Just search for "driveline angle". And just follow the instructions to get how everything is setting.
I also use a andriod app called "Clinometer" to find what the engine and rear end angled were. it helped on getting my front end close so i could drive it until i took it to the shop.
BC
#423
small update: I found my vararam TB spacer cracking this weekend. I contacted vararam, who said they discontinued it for that very reason. sadly, it's required for my TB to clear the L92 water pump.
So I pulled the trigger on an L99 water pump and tensioner, with help from Clint and kirk69Nova. Since I have high-mount AC, it appears that I'm going to have to get creative with the tensioner. My aim is to do something similar to what roadrunner69 did:
Good Guys is this weekend, and I'm taking her out for autocross, so I don't know if I want to try to make this work beforehand.
So I pulled the trigger on an L99 water pump and tensioner, with help from Clint and kirk69Nova. Since I have high-mount AC, it appears that I'm going to have to get creative with the tensioner. My aim is to do something similar to what roadrunner69 did:
Good Guys is this weekend, and I'm taking her out for autocross, so I don't know if I want to try to make this work beforehand.
#425
Nothing. They sell 1" aluminum spacers for around $100, but I've been wanting to swap water pumps for some time now, and this gives me a reason to do so. This will clean things up a bit.
#428
[THINKINGOUTLOUD]I am planning on adding a bung near the top of the radiator end cap, but I haven't decided yet which side of the radiator to use (inlet/hot vs. outlet/cold). The 2010 Camaro radiator flows top down and plumbs the steam vent into the top/hot side just under the pressure cap. The '00-'02 Camaro flows driver to passenger side like my Nova radiator and the steam vent plumbs into the passenger/cold side just under the pressure cap. I will probably route mine like the '00-'02 Camaro because it should be easier to burp the system. I don't think it matters whether it plumbs into the hot or the cold side because the pressure difference is minimal.[/THINKINGOUTLOUD]
#429
We are trying to work out the details of the next cruise. Its looking more like Cave Creek.
Take a look at my new CAI its simple. and looks good. I ran a friend with a 5.3 giant turbo e85 stang. End of second he came around me. Time to fill the bottle lol.
If you need help doing the accy drive swap before the cruise let me know.
Take a look at my new CAI its simple. and looks good. I ran a friend with a 5.3 giant turbo e85 stang. End of second he came around me. Time to fill the bottle lol.
If you need help doing the accy drive swap before the cruise let me know.
#430
I received the L99 stuff. Looking at it, the tensioner mount pads are further outboard from the engine block vs. the L92 water pump. I'm therefore going to need to redo my AC bracket spacers. Since I basically need to cut them down, it shouldn't be too difficult, though I may also need to cut my front compressor bracket to fit the tensioner, as well.
Edit: bczee, I never mentioned it, but I was able to bring the vibes down using the Tremec app for my iPhone. It's still not completely eliminated, but it's more bearable, and nearly gone between 75 and 80.
In other news, I took her out to Good Guys this past weekend, with not one but TWO gopro's. I'll have a few more on my channel once I get around to editing, but I'm especially proud of this gem from Sunday (the fun starts at the 1:30 mark):
Edit: bczee, I never mentioned it, but I was able to bring the vibes down using the Tremec app for my iPhone. It's still not completely eliminated, but it's more bearable, and nearly gone between 75 and 80.
In other news, I took her out to Good Guys this past weekend, with not one but TWO gopro's. I'll have a few more on my channel once I get around to editing, but I'm especially proud of this gem from Sunday (the fun starts at the 1:30 mark):
#431
That is the only app I have ever downloaded that required no special permissions.
#433
Hook.... Glad I could help in pointing you to something that helped !
Looks like you had a great time !. Can't really say that your GF really wanted to be riding shot gun LOL... But she'll get used to the fun ! The Pleasanton GG is coming up next weekend. Taking my Nova Sat and the Chevelle Sunday... will get some Vid's posted.
BC
Looks like you had a great time !. Can't really say that your GF really wanted to be riding shot gun LOL... But she'll get used to the fun ! The Pleasanton GG is coming up next weekend. Taking my Nova Sat and the Chevelle Sunday... will get some Vid's posted.
BC
#434
Thanks gang. I made a run at the event back in November, and I've been hooked ever since. That said, I'm very disappointed in my fuel tank. Saturday's runs were awful, as I had a little over 1/2 tank but the car kept cutting out around corners. I've been interested in Holley's new hydramat fuel reservoir setup, but decided to scrape together my loose change to get a Rick's stainless EFI tank.
Anyway, I installed the L99 water pump last night, and took a few photos to help others. FYI, I'm selling the L92 pump and LS1 tensioner. This is a better setup if you're running a passenger-side radiator inlet (outlet?).
I'm still undecided on what to do about the steam line. I have an outlet at my radiator cap, but that's currently directed toward a catch can. I might end up tying it into the upper hose as I did with my previous setup.
TB spacer as removed. I likely had a vacuum leak.
L99 (left) vs. L92 water pump. Note that the thermostat housing angle is slightly different between the two. The six water pump mounting holes are the same ~2.5" depth for both.
The L92 pump is roughly 5/8" further out vs. the L99, though the pulleys are spaced the same.
The L92 tensioner mount pads are just over 1.5" from the block. Disregard the digital reading, I bumped it and messed it up.
By contrast, the L99 tensioner mount pads are about 3" from the block.
LS1 tensioner (left) vs. L99. Both come stock with a ribbed pulley; I installed the smooth one for my application (and will do the same with the L99).
LS1 tensioner mount height is approximately 1.5"
The L99 is (obviously) shorter, at just over 5/8". Note that the tensioner body is below the mounting points, which will require me to clearance the bracket.
L99 pump as installed. The red will be removed from the bracket, and the blue are where the tensioner will be mounted.
The outlet sits fairly close to my Taurus fan, though it appears that the hose will still fit.
I tried to get a photo showing the location of the tensioner mounts vs. the forward bracket. I believe it's close enough to work without a spacer, though I'll need to verify once installed.
Anyway, I installed the L99 water pump last night, and took a few photos to help others. FYI, I'm selling the L92 pump and LS1 tensioner. This is a better setup if you're running a passenger-side radiator inlet (outlet?).
I'm still undecided on what to do about the steam line. I have an outlet at my radiator cap, but that's currently directed toward a catch can. I might end up tying it into the upper hose as I did with my previous setup.
TB spacer as removed. I likely had a vacuum leak.
L99 (left) vs. L92 water pump. Note that the thermostat housing angle is slightly different between the two. The six water pump mounting holes are the same ~2.5" depth for both.
The L92 pump is roughly 5/8" further out vs. the L99, though the pulleys are spaced the same.
The L92 tensioner mount pads are just over 1.5" from the block. Disregard the digital reading, I bumped it and messed it up.
By contrast, the L99 tensioner mount pads are about 3" from the block.
LS1 tensioner (left) vs. L99. Both come stock with a ribbed pulley; I installed the smooth one for my application (and will do the same with the L99).
LS1 tensioner mount height is approximately 1.5"
The L99 is (obviously) shorter, at just over 5/8". Note that the tensioner body is below the mounting points, which will require me to clearance the bracket.
L99 pump as installed. The red will be removed from the bracket, and the blue are where the tensioner will be mounted.
The outlet sits fairly close to my Taurus fan, though it appears that the hose will still fit.
I tried to get a photo showing the location of the tensioner mounts vs. the forward bracket. I believe it's close enough to work without a spacer, though I'll need to verify once installed.
#435
Good write up and photo's.... When is the next time your going to be able to Auto-X again... Here in NorCal.. we have 4 Good Guys a year. Also.. SCCA, many Vette and other Club and Sanctioning Auto-X events..
BC
BC
#436
We've got two good guys events (March and November), plus numerous SOLO and NASA races. I'm actually planning to road trip to GG Del Mar in April 2016, so I'll be spending this year making shorter runs to work out any kinks.
#437
I've nearly buttoned up the install. Modifying the brackets was fairly straightforward, though I ended up mounting it slightly different than I originally planned.
A couple observations:
1) I'm going to run the steam vent to my upper radiator hose, as I did before. I'll use a 90° nipple to make it cleaner.
2) My intake is now hitting my AC compressor. bczee, have you thought more about doing the cowl inake a la your chevelle to your nova?
Tensioner mounting points shown in green. The blue arrow shows where I moved the idler pulley (from the far right bracket hole)
The radiator hos is touching the fan shroud. I'll have to be cognizant of chafing.
Nearly complete. Blue and red lines represent the vent line routing and 90° nipple, respectively.
A couple observations:
1) I'm going to run the steam vent to my upper radiator hose, as I did before. I'll use a 90° nipple to make it cleaner.
2) My intake is now hitting my AC compressor. bczee, have you thought more about doing the cowl inake a la your chevelle to your nova?
Tensioner mounting points shown in green. The blue arrow shows where I moved the idler pulley (from the far right bracket hole)
The radiator hos is touching the fan shroud. I'll have to be cognizant of chafing.
Nearly complete. Blue and red lines represent the vent line routing and 90° nipple, respectively.
#439
Well, I had to redesign the bracket, as the belt was jumping forward on the AC compressor. I believe this was due to the lack of support (I initially removed the original L bracket from the water pump to the bracket); the cantilevered bracketry couldn't resist on its own the bending moment from the belt tension. It appears that I managed to remedy this, though I haven't put any appreciably mileage on the car since I redesigned it due to lack of clearance with the air inlet.
So what I'm thinking is to run a flat filter on top of the engine, with a two-piece air box attached to the hood and engine. Ideally, I'd like to find a 180° inlet duct like that below, but might settle for something like others have done with circular filters.
Something like this would be preferred.
But I might need to do this. Ducts are from Jags That Run.
Redesigned AC bracket, with the idler moved above the tensioner. If you look closely, you can see the L bracket attached to the rear of the tensioner mounts at the water pump.
So what I'm thinking is to run a flat filter on top of the engine, with a two-piece air box attached to the hood and engine. Ideally, I'd like to find a 180° inlet duct like that below, but might settle for something like others have done with circular filters.
Something like this would be preferred.
But I might need to do this. Ducts are from Jags That Run.
Redesigned AC bracket, with the idler moved above the tensioner. If you look closely, you can see the L bracket attached to the rear of the tensioner mounts at the water pump.