xpndbl3

iTrader: (23)

I'll just take it to a track tnt or if I get really ambitious book 2 hours of dyno time and just make some pulls and see where I end up. Luckily the car is weeks away from being done so I have time to be an internet warrior about it.

chris-m

mine is set for around 29-30deg max advance above 3000rpm and at WOT or where there is no vacuum showing. at idle and light throttle i add in around 10degrees to the curve which gives it a total of around 32-36deg under such conditions.
regards

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

I think dyno with a wideband is your best bet. Thats how im going to zero mine in.

6L.IROC-Z

iTrader: (6)

I'm with 406rollerbu I run mine at 32 all in about 3000. Mine was on the dyno 93 octane LS1 heads lq4 bottom end. Also if I remember correctly there is a option where you can set set the upper and lower limit on amount of timing. Seems like I went wide open throttle at around 3000 and looked at the laptop gauge and saw 41 * of timing. Cant remember exactly but once I turned that option on, no matter how much timing I added for x amount of vacuum it never went over the upper limit. Just think the non programmable Edelbrock pills all have 36* total in them only diff is the ramp rate to 36* I ran on that box for months because msd had not com out with theirs yet. good luck with your build

Ravenous T\A

iTrader: (12)

it be nice if we had a tuning bank/bin for MSD 6010/6014 users who have had dyno time, so maybe some of us without a dynotime fund thats healthy can have a jumping off point. I am talking about maybe a list of mods and HP on the dyno so people can get a better perspective on what they need to have for their tune.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (23)

i could set up a database like that then just e-mail out a .zip file if enough people wanted to put this together. let me know

1fast68

I hooked up my map sensor to timed vac port on the carb. Works very well for me, I reworked my map sensor curve for timed port. I have been running like this for 6-8 months now, has great throttle response.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (23)

why would you want it on the timed port which would add no timing to idle or slight off-idle carb positions?

rojs234

iTrader: (5)

I run mine the same way as * 1fast68 *. I run all my stuff off the "timed" port on the carb. In case some don't know what that is, it cuts off the vacuum when the butterflies are closed (at idle). With a cammed engine, you are going to want somewhere around 17-22* at idle speed (800-900RPM). Now, some of you are setting your timing at 10* and then adding 10* with the MAP to get 20* at idle to make it idle better. All I can say is, I'd like to line up against you at the dragstrip, especially if your an automatic.
I'll kill you off the line. I would'nt be surprised if the low initial timing is'nt the reason so many of you are encountering the stumble off idle that so many of you complain about all the time. If you would take a look at the instructions that came with your 6010, you would see that most of the timing curves for the pills that come with it use more initial timing. One of them has something like 32* @ 800RPM. All of them have at least 20* @ just above idle. I have seen numerous dyno tests in various magazines using these "pills" with NO problems. The Car Craft engine that everyone seems to want to duplicate ran 32* of total timing. Just my .02 cents worth. And by the way, it adds timing any time the throttle is opened just like hooking it straight to manifold. The difference is, you don't LOSE your initial timing like you do the other way.

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

So why would you (on a standard distributor) always unhook your timing vacuum line in order to time the engine initially? I didnt know that the carburetors didnt have any vacuum at idle. Maybe it is whats causing a stumble. I'll have to try it your way and see what my MAP reads with the new location.

rojs234

iTrader: (5)

Shawn, I'm probably confusing you. Sometimes I'm not very clear at trying to explain something. Let me try it again. The engine DOES have vacuum at idle. What I personally don't like is, when you hook it straight to manifold vacuum, it will cause the motor to idle better as you have found out, but, as soon as you open the throttle, such as leaving a light, you instantly lose your extra timing, in your case, 10*. This drops the engine back to the 10* you set on your RPM timing curve. This might work with a stock LS1 cam, but a cam like you run needs more timing even at 1000 RPM. FWIW, almost any cam that has over 220*@ .050 would probably require 17-22* at idle. If you run your MAP off ported vacuum, even if you still have the 10* you added on the MAP timing curve, you will lose it as you open the throttle, because of the load but gain it back at higher RPM as the load lessens and the vacuum comes back up. You also have to be careful that the butterflies are actually shutting off the port at idle. If they're not, you have the transfer slot exposed in the carb and this also can cause the stumble. I set my curve like this: At 0 RPM, (cranking speed) 12* - I run 22* at 850 RPM (idle speed) - I set the next point at 28* at 2500 RPM - And then 32* at 3000 RPM and same the rest of the RPM scale. As someone else said, you don't even have to run the MAP if you don't want to. I do, but I bring the extra timing in at the higher vacuum levels like you would see cruising down the road. Try it once, you might like it!! Hope I haven't made you even more confused

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

Hmm i see. I'll have to give it a try when i put the new demon on. no sense in messing with the tuning until then. It's be a month or so since ive even taken the car out of the trailer. Winter makes me lazy. I'm all for trying new tuning methods though.

1fast68

I could not have said that better. Thanks

rojs234

iTrader: (5)

I know exactly what you're talking about on the winter stuff. I've got my car strung out all over the shop, trying to put in shoulder harness, and some other stuff so I can run this summer. We are just getting out of a really BAD ice storm. I've even got a heated shop, but I still can't seem to get motivated. Ron

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

Heated shop? Pfft I've got wet grass right now. I'm borrowing my works heated warehouse to do the 40 hour headgasket swap on my Duramax this weekend. Atleast its something new to work on, i'm tired of staring at my ls1 lol.