Novaman

I found the original post very informative. He didn't say built procharged 6.0 in any car for $1500, I say take what works and make it work for you. I gave $650 for my 5.3, heard it run, they pulled it, told me to take whatever else I wanted off the truck, and threw in the 4L60. This was from a junkyard, not a sweet hookup. Justa good deal. If you can't do it for $1500 you don't want it bad enough. If you want more than basic, its gonna cost more thats true with almost anything you buy. If you cant wire or fab you have to pay. Which is fine! It was a good post!!

sikbrik

*TROLL GETS LOUD - TROLL WINS* You guys are a trip.

Seriously, the original post has a parts listing and prices. It's how one guy does swaps for $1500. Anyone who is bitching about it being unrealistic is calling the guy a liar - who are you to call him out on that? I don't know him and have no interest in his business but there's nothing misleading about that.

Again, some people have chosen to provide a few tips in this thread to help others. Some have just complained that it can't be done for $1500.

So let's say, if this is truly the only question, that the vehicle in question is a clapped out 4.3 G-body (malibu, 4 door) that already has a 200-4R, EFI fuel system, and enough room for the truck swap with a cheapie cowl hood.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I didnt have to get loud..I put you in your place cause you are ignorant. When you decide to read exactly what I said then you will see the light.

I wanted to know exactly what vehicle he did that in, nothing really hard about that question.

That probably could be done for under $1500.
And before you question my thought on that I'll say I have technical expertise with the G-body.

ClimberD

Neither the LS4 or the EJ255/257 have cable throttle. I could use the stock Subaru ECU / pedal / throttle body (2.75"), which has been done with the guy who did a 3800 swap into the same car that I have. Could rig up cable throttle from an older Subaru pedal design, and older LS1 throttle body.

I'm not using any PCM, no LS4 is car yet. Going to end up using whatever is easiest to manage. That may end up being MegaSquirt MS3x, or it may end up being a LS4 PCM with HP Tuners for a while. In keeping with this thread, whichever is cheapest and still gets the job done right.

I still need to figure this part of the swap out, and I need to learn about DOD/AFM still, since that will have a lot to do with my decision.

At the very least, the Subaru ECU will be kept on to manage the stock gauge cluster, and pass emissions (The Subaru ECU has been completely hacked by the opensource community, so it's free to do anything and everything, wthout check engine light issues on the Subi side). Beyond that, it's all technicalities.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I knew stock it was DBW..but you can pretty much piece together what you want when it comes to LS Stuff.

What year is the LS4..does it have a 24X or 58X Reluctor Wheel?

If it's the 24X then you can run you a 99-02 Fbody PCM, wire it up and then run your Cable Throttle Body. That's what I would do.

But then again like you said whatever is cheaper.

ClimberD

Good tip on the cable throttle body with the old reluctor wheel and F-body PCM setup. That may be the winner. LS4s began in 2006 with the old wheel, then switched over to the new wheel in 07 for the most part. Since I haven't rushed into an engine yet, I can easily go with 06, which will be a little cheaper anyways.
Still need to look into cruise control and pedal assemblies some more, but so far so good.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Cruise Module from an F-body and wire it in.

sikbrik

Thanks for enlightening me and then agreeing with me. I'm not as ignorant of the topic as you assume. Perhaps we both need to better interpret the point the other is trying to make. We were both a little out of line at one point. Agree to disagree.

What I'm trying to get across is that this thread is by a guy who says he does it, those of us with knowledge know it's VERY specific cases where it can be done (even by a pro fabricator), and there are people here looking to get budget tips. I just didn't see the point of dragging the OP through the mud ("calling bullshit") over a hypothetical question.

Reader: If you've made it this far in this thread, you'll realize it shouldn't be a sticky, it shouldn't be a guide. It's one man's experience - "Hey, look what I did". If you're usually that guy and you've got a bridgeport mill and a fancy TIG setup at your house along with countless other toys, you don't care if it costs $1500 and you're not reading budget threads anyway. Many of us (most of us) won't be able to duplicate it without getting lucky or doing a ton of research and scoring deals on used parts that you don't modify at all for additional performance or better looks or function.

The average swap is going to run about $5k (varies wildly), I'd guess, with many swaps far exceeding that number. I've got $1500 into my engine, wiring, and trans alone (stock L33, retaining all truck accessories and DBW, etc.) My swap is easily going to go to $5k because I'm not starting with a tradition V8 powered car. This isn't LSx specific. I've swapped small blocks of all generations and the swap costs are generally very similar.

I think where the_Merv and I disagreed was actually our main point of agreement. It's not a cheap thing to do. Certain cars (as the one example I cited) allow for a more budget-friendly swap. Don't expect to build an RX7 with a boosted 5.3 or even a stock 6.0 for anywhere near $1500. That said, this guy who originally posted this thread (on MANY forums beyond just this one) says he does it routinely. Maybe, maybe not. I fall on the side of maybe, some others say not. I came at this from the point of the OP building a chevy pickup that already had a SBC and related performance parts.

Bottom line is that it doesn't matter - plan your swap thoroughly using the wealth of information on this board and NOT this single thread. DO NOT settle on a 5.3 because it's cheaper. I have a post in this thread that explains the exact reasons why (you'll have more into it if you can't use truck accessories, etc.)

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Very good post sir.
Yes, our disagreement was us both conveying the same point but in a manner to where we both are saying it to where it's insulting to each other. I'm a blunt person..just how I am.

Pretty much why I asked the question I did and in the manner I did..the average person reading this is going to see it as "$1500 spent and I can get my **** runnin..", when in all reality as soon as $1500 is spent they are going to say f it and sell stuff if they cant afford to continue, or say damn, and $3k later their project is goin. Yea most would be happy that they are cruisin in their hotrod with hard work into it, but in the back of their mind they would look at this thread and send the loud n clear.

I still say this title is very misleading in a way..the info is good, but the critical part here is the vehicle.

Same thing I was thinking..a EFI G-body, B-Body, a 1500 Truck, or if you want to get ballzy a 4.3l V6 2WD S10 or Jimmy..that would be a squeeze with $1500 but it could be done. I could pull that one off with $1500.
That's a BONE STOCK Engine going in too..right down to the Manifolds.

GoTTi-RR

hello all..new to the forum, largely because of my undertaking...

have a 79 elcamino, orginally with 305/th350 that i resto'd to a clean street car. without warning blew a coffee can size hole in the block...here we go.

bought a 2004 dbc truck 5.3L vortec, no accessories with 40k for 5 bills. have a th700r4 out of a vette, that i have mated to it, along with a new oil pan and pick up. I somehow wedged this puppy in and plan to keep it injected, so i know ill need a harness and MAF to get it running.

Here's what im finding....I would love any thoughts as to how to cheaply remedy.

Intake is high, but i want torque, so I may outfit a hood scoop. Thinking a rama air type (similar to early 70's T/A..will this work? If only way to do it is LS1 intake, what all do i need with that set up?

Driver exhaust has not enough clearance - I've been told a FBody ls manifold will work. Not interested in headers at this point.

Will want to have a/c, but stock bracket was removed to allow for motor mount. Any junkyard thoughts?

Power steering pump placement may/will interfere with steering box. Any junkyard remedies here?

Alternator - will that have to be mounted high like it is looking...any junkyard remedy here?

Im already somewhat knee deep in this, and I gota get it going, or face riding my motorcycles as it gets cold and rainy...and i have to try and keep the $$ down...I never anticipated needing to swap a motor so soon...

sikbrik

Check quick performance for the brackets for your elky. I think it's 270something for the truck setup that keeps a/c and moves alt down low. Scoop is ain good ideafor but stillI might notbe help upfigure front. Remove and plug the canister purge on topthe front of mani, take ofa the beauty cover andgrind down the bosses if ur close. Maybe try Jim's Performance for a harness...they did a g-body specific harness for my 81 elky with tpi. What are you doing for fuel? Need a v6 sending unit to go intank with stock style setup...pricey. go inline aftermarket, louder but way cheaper. F body manifolds should fit. Rereading your post, definitely look @ quick perf brackets to retain a/c and p/s or get fbody brackets and intake manifold if you can find em cheap enough-
g body experts may also chime in...good luck!

sikbrik

Don't mind my spelling and grammar. My phone sux.

DAILY(GM)DRIVEN

New to the forum and this thread is great. Looks like the LS1 is out of the picture and the 5.3 is in vision to go into my 86 C-10. Hopefully I can get better gas milage with a 4 speed tranny in place of my worn 305 and TH350. Hardest part will be keeping my A/C and power steering.

butch2000

Very good information , thanks for the detailed post . I will be contacting you regarding a turbo setup on one of these .

sikbrik

For any new guys/gals that skipped the first 13 pages, I just want to remind many that the poster with the C10 is probably in good shape with a 5.3 truck setup but many other swappers will save money going LS1 with car intake, cable throttle, car accessories, more clearance on oil pan and brackets, etc. This stuff, if you try to change it out later, could end up costing you more than the difference on a 5.3 vs. LS1. Just plan, plan, plan before you spend any money on parts.

GoTTi-RR

Thank you. I called a quick performance in louisiana, but he said they deal with rear ends...am I calling the wrong place, and if so, can you direct me? Will they have a solution for the power steering issue as well?

I'll probably go with an electric standalone fuel pump, btw.

Thanks in advance...

armour

You definitely called the wrong place. lol. you need www.kwikperf.com

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Those guys are in Indiania I beleive..that is where all my rear stuff is from.

sikbrik

sorry about that, GoTTi-RR. I just typed it out really quickly...thanks for clarifying, armour kwikperf is definitely who I meant

GoTTi-RR

got it...thanks a ton...was wondering if i made the wrong decision to go with that motor...whew!