Redrumls

I oredered a flywheel from mcleod for my 6.0 that accepts old style setup & 5&6spd setup. The flywheel supposed to have a thicker face? My question is the flywheel is 12" I think (haven't got it yet, tomorrow), is it gonna clear my stock bell housing or do I have to get another? Tech said it will accept the 10.8 or 11" pressure plate & clutch.
I want to switch to a 5 or 6spd when money permits.
Any info would help.
Tnx

camrs73

i believe if your stock bellhousing is the larger style (621 i think?) then the flywheel should clear it

Redrumls

I flywheel just came in and everything looks good! Should have my 68 camaro up and running pretty quick. I initially ordered a flywheel from Keisler but they were having problems with their vendor, mcleod took care of me but paid a lil more.
Tnx for info

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

If your bell housing was made for a 153 tooth flywheel, the LS clutch/pressure plate would not clear on my 68 vette. I had to change to a BBC 168 "621" flywheel from Keisler that was machined for the extra LS bolt hole.
Are you going with a hyrailic or Z bar clutch linkage?

Redrumls

Hydralic, how can you use a z bar? The flywheel I have also accepts old style pressure plate.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

I used a 621 bell housing with stock vette clutch arm. Speedhound sells a Z bar attachment point that connects to the motor mounts.
http://www.speedhound.com/LSX%20swap/C3Zbar.html
SDparts has one that mounts to the bell housing bolts.
http://www.sdparts.com/product/SDCBV...Corvettes.aspx
Only problem is that the stock throwout bearing is barely long enogh to reach the LS1 pressure plate. I used a longer throwout beaing.
Here's a pic of the Speedhound Z bar plate. I ended up redrilling the attachment point in the plate and on the frame lower so it would clear the Z06 exhaust manifold better.

68 RS Convertible

iTrader: (1)

What kind of hydraulic set up are you planning? Looks like you are planning on running a Muncie. I made a bracket up to make my z bar work for my 68 RS. If you look at Garys68 first picture, just below the rear most head bolt, on the block there is a flat surface, which I drilled and tapped (before the engine was in the car), for my front mounting point. For a second mounting point I used the hole on the drivers side of the bell housing, looks like it may have been used for a pivot ball. I took a piece of straight 1/16 steel and then dirlled two holes for the bolts, then one elongated hole in the center where my pivot ball that goes on the inside of the z bar is. The rear mounting point had to be spaced out in order to keep everything even. I also had to shorten the pivot ball that comes off the inside of the z bar as it seems the ls motors are a little wider than the gen 1 motors. I have been considering going hydraulic.
I was looking at one of the throw out bearings that slides over the front imput shaft cover (for lack of the proper term). Just curious what other first gen guys were running for hydraulic clutch set ups with Muncies, or in my case a Tremec 5 speed? And what style and brand hydraulic throw out bearing and slave cylinder?

scooter383

what exhaust are you going to use.most headers i found wont clear zbar and linkage.

Redrumls

Keisler has a new setup for Muncie, it's a hydralic throwout bearing kit. About $640 for the kit. My friend did a coversion out of a 94 95 blazer or a 10, he got the whole kit from junkyard for like $30 and looks and works good. It's a hydralic setup, not a hydralic throwout bearing.

68 RS Convertible

iTrader: (1)

I'm running hookers and they clear my z bar fine.

scooter383

would it be possible to get a pic of the header and z bar.i must have something wrong