Engine lift points-Help!
Engine lift points-Help! Ok got my engine out and the front of the car is up w jacks supporting it near the front of the doors.
I see a couple of decent size bolts-one up front R side for accessories, and one rear L in the head...are these good points to bolt a chain to to lift the engine?
I don't want to damage a head...
TIA.
Brian G
I see a couple of decent size bolts-one up front R side for accessories, and one rear L in the head...are these good points to bolt a chain to to lift the engine?
I don't want to damage a head...
TIA.
Brian G
You can use those two point. just make sure you use a good bolt that is just long enough, thread it all the way in with the chain (finger tight is enough). Is the trans still attached ? if so.. make sure you get it balanced..
Question, is the engine out already and your just moving it ?
Question, is the engine out already and your just moving it ?
Engines out on the x-member, I'm pulling it off the x member and than pulling the oil pan to swap for a GTO pan. Tough to do in a little one car garage!
I used the d side rear and pass side front upper outer head bolts, used grade 10 of course. And yes, the trans is still attached, man this engine and trans combo maneuvers lighter than just the 2jzgte engine I pulled out....gotta love Aluminum blocks and not heavy arsed twin turbos!
bczee, The engine trans are going into my 83 Supra.
http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/a...jan2005002.jpg
I used the d side rear and pass side front upper outer head bolts, used grade 10 of course. And yes, the trans is still attached, man this engine and trans combo maneuvers lighter than just the 2jzgte engine I pulled out....gotta love Aluminum blocks and not heavy arsed twin turbos!
bczee, The engine trans are going into my 83 Supra.
http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/a...jan2005002.jpg
Any bolt would do, grade 10 is like over kill. as long as the bolt is tight and now wobbing around in the thread.. it will be save and not start to strip out thread.
Supra?, what do you thing the final weight will be? Them inline 6's were pertty strong back in those smog engine days.. What are you doing for a rear end ?
Supra?, what do you thing the final weight will be? Them inline 6's were pertty strong back in those smog engine days.. What are you doing for a rear end ?
I always pull the valley cover and use (4) of those holes for (2) chains, usually front and back, then adjust the tilt with a bolt through the chains. If I had bolts with longer thread, I'd leave the cover on...
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Final weight should be around 3000lbs in a fully equipped AC/sound dead/2 amps/sub-woofer etc...., a 3:73 rear diff/tru trak setup and 25.7" tires- prob go w 24.7 in future 245/40/17, got a truck pinion flange, and will try to use the nice aluminum drive shaft from the donor car.
The wiring intimidates me, but I like a challenge.
B
BTW, the engine is out and I'm almost done stripping the salvagable parts off the 01 SS, hopefully I can start test fitting this week.
Final weight should be around 3000lbs in a fully equipped AC/sound dead/2 amps/sub-woofer etc...., a 3:73 rear diff/tru trak setup and 25.7" tires- prob go w 24.7 in future 245/40/17, got a truck pinion flange, and will try to use the nice aluminum drive shaft from the donor car.
The wiring intimidates me, but I like a challenge.
B
BTW, the engine is out and I'm almost done stripping the salvagable parts off the 01 SS, hopefully I can start test fitting this week.
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 48
Likes: 2
Engine Bridge..Intake manifold can stay on My friend came up with angle iron bridge that picks up the M10 tapped holes above the exhaust manifold flange on the rh and lh cylinder head. In this manner, the eng/trans is rigged w/ 2 chains in front and a third point the "eye" bolt over the top of the bridge.
We were able to install the eng/trans package with intake manifold installed and at the same time clear the ac housing of the 85 Monte. Did have to pull driver side valve cover for the installation, plenty of room to re-install once engine in posn. Required no chains to rear of engine....
We were able to install the eng/trans package with intake manifold installed and at the same time clear the ac housing of the 85 Monte. Did have to pull driver side valve cover for the installation, plenty of room to re-install once engine in posn. Required no chains to rear of engine....
My friend came up with angle iron bridge that picks up the M10 tapped holes above the exhaust manifold flange on the rh and lh cylinder head. In this manner, the eng/trans is rigged w/ 2 chains in front and a third point the "eye" bolt over the top of the bridge.
We were able to install the eng/trans package with intake manifold installed and at the same time clear the ac housing of the 85 Monte. Did have to pull driver side valve cover for the installation, plenty of room to re-install once engine in posn. Required no chains to rear of engine....
We were able to install the eng/trans package with intake manifold installed and at the same time clear the ac housing of the 85 Monte. Did have to pull driver side valve cover for the installation, plenty of room to re-install once engine in posn. Required no chains to rear of engine....
Now if you were putting this in an F-Body I could completely understand with the windscreen overhang but I would just drop the sub frame on that one.
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 48
Likes: 2
gofast:
I had a "mock" motor in and out of the monte a number of times w/ the 4 chain method. Had to be careful of the ac heater housing (a number of g-body swaps resulted in broken housings). With the 4 chains, had to remove intake manifold and sometimes hard to get the bolts securing the rear chains out because of firewall interference.
At least for G-bodys, I think this method is much easier.
David
I have 2 chains front and 2 more on the rear using the accessory bolts in the heads and have installed many types engines in various chassis over the years without issue. I've even done a few in G-body cars and although it was tight around the AC, it wasn't impossible - even alone.
At least for G-bodys, I think this method is much easier.
David
TECH Resident
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 816
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From: Texas
I used the 2 head bolts as you have suggested. Just don't do Like I did. I was so old school and green to modern engines I used 3/8 bolts to lift it off the trailor. Then realized that they were metric thread. Believe it or not a 3/8 bolt will go right in there it is that close.
What oil pan are you running? I found what GM calls the "muscle car" oil pan kit for $140 PN 19212593 at my local friendly GM dealer. This pan isn't quite as deep as the truck version and clears better than the F-Body unit without mods in many cars. It looks like a copy of the typical GEN I stamped steel oil pan made from cast aluminum for a GEN III engine. The pan has no provisions for the useless (IMO) oil level sensor and comes with pickup tube, dipstick, windage tray, gasket and all bolts. This may allow you to slide the engine forward and save a bit of room at the firewall depending on the pan you have now - it helped me out.
I used the 2 head bolts as you have suggested. Just don't do Like I did. I was so old school and green to modern engines I used 3/8 bolts to lift it off the trailor. Then realized that they were metric thread. Believe it or not a 3/8 bolt will go right in there it is that close.
