VVT LY6 into my 1994 Firebird Formula
#21
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well, this is it running. it got cut short because taking videos on my droid is taking some getting used to.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ZtZsYaphTM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ZtZsYaphTM
#23
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here's an in-car demo... it got cut short because i got a phone call, but you get the idea...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_yYCX12IWM
edit: oh, and if anyone is wondering about the exhaust, it's dual 3" to dual 2.5" with x-pipe, two 3" bullets to two longer 2.5" bullets just before the tailpipes
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_yYCX12IWM
edit: oh, and if anyone is wondering about the exhaust, it's dual 3" to dual 2.5" with x-pipe, two 3" bullets to two longer 2.5" bullets just before the tailpipes
Last edited by pillagenburn; 12-30-2009 at 05:38 PM.
#24
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a little better demo of the engine etc... this Motorola Droid kicks *** Being able to upload videos to youtube directly from your phone is awesome.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxJmnKJ0ZJ0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxJmnKJ0ZJ0
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I dunno how heavy the Nova is, but the m12 t56 is great for heavier cars (i.e. the 04-06 GTO) ... though this is going to be THE motor to have for people that are relatively budget-conscious and even for the tight-budgets on higher mileage units.
I dont think i'd rather have any other car for under $10k... or even 20 or 30k, but I wouldn't even spend that much on a car to begin with.
I dont think i'd rather have any other car for under $10k... or even 20 or 30k, but I wouldn't even spend that much on a car to begin with.
#27
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"...second gear is for the most part traction less..."
Sweet! I think I may have to hunt one of these down for my next project!
Congrats on the successful swap and thanks for the additional videos. This sounds like a very interesting engine. I wonder what the power potential / street daily drivability is going to be like.
...Researching I will go...
Sweet! I think I may have to hunt one of these down for my next project!
Congrats on the successful swap and thanks for the additional videos. This sounds like a very interesting engine. I wonder what the power potential / street daily drivability is going to be like.
...Researching I will go...
#28
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well... it's a great n/a motor with great street manners
but it also runs 9.6:1 compression, has the "good" rods (i.e. forged) and is an iron block..
I think 8-10 psi would be good for this motor.... you may then have a LS9-class motor on your hands I really envision this motor as being a true bolt-on supercharger/turbocharger type of engine... something that you can slap some better injectors on, a fuel pump plus a turbo kit and be off to the races.
oh, and i run either 87 or 89 octane in my motor. 93 octane makes no difference.
edit: oh, and one other thing - I don't really care that it's an iron block in a formerly LT1 engine bay. The LT1 is also iron, is pretty much garbage from the factory and quite possibly weighs MORE than the LY6..
but it also runs 9.6:1 compression, has the "good" rods (i.e. forged) and is an iron block..
I think 8-10 psi would be good for this motor.... you may then have a LS9-class motor on your hands I really envision this motor as being a true bolt-on supercharger/turbocharger type of engine... something that you can slap some better injectors on, a fuel pump plus a turbo kit and be off to the races.
oh, and i run either 87 or 89 octane in my motor. 93 octane makes no difference.
edit: oh, and one other thing - I don't really care that it's an iron block in a formerly LT1 engine bay. The LT1 is also iron, is pretty much garbage from the factory and quite possibly weighs MORE than the LY6..
#29
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well... it's a great n/a motor with great street manners
but it also runs 9.6:1 compression, has the "good" rods (i.e. forged) and is an iron block..
I think 8-10 psi would be good for this motor.... you may then have a LS9-class motor on your hands I really envision this motor as being a true bolt-on supercharger/turbocharger type of engine... something that you can slap some better injectors on, a fuel pump plus a turbo kit and be off to the races.
oh, and i run either 87 or 89 octane in my motor. 93 octane makes no difference.
edit: oh, and one other thing - I don't really care that it's an iron block in a formerly LT1 engine bay. The LT1 is also iron, is pretty much garbage from the factory and quite possibly weighs MORE than the LY6..
but it also runs 9.6:1 compression, has the "good" rods (i.e. forged) and is an iron block..
I think 8-10 psi would be good for this motor.... you may then have a LS9-class motor on your hands I really envision this motor as being a true bolt-on supercharger/turbocharger type of engine... something that you can slap some better injectors on, a fuel pump plus a turbo kit and be off to the races.
oh, and i run either 87 or 89 octane in my motor. 93 octane makes no difference.
edit: oh, and one other thing - I don't really care that it's an iron block in a formerly LT1 engine bay. The LT1 is also iron, is pretty much garbage from the factory and quite possibly weighs MORE than the LY6..
I can't remember where I read this but one of the design goals of the Gen III engines was weight loss compared to the Gen I / II's. Gen IV engines are based on the Gen III design so I assume that would still be a relevant statement, however I don't happen to have a bathroom scale that big! Iron block truck engines have got to be the deal of the century when cost, power and weight are concerned... and they're everywhere!
#31
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Not being an expert on boost and having never owned a boosted car but reading quite a few books and having a few boost freak friends with 10 and 11 second V6 cars I can say this:
All things being equal, (which of course they never are) as boost increases power output increases at a relative rate. There is actually a formula for it and it varies with turbo size and a bunch of other stuff, but for our theoretical purposes the short version is fine. Atmospheric pressure is 14.7 PSI, so in our earlier example 8 PSI (over N/A) is half again the air pressure and thus 50% more power (with correctly added fuel and spark). 14.7 PSI is 100% improvement of what the engine could ingest on it's own so 100% power gain. In the VVT example, a 400 HP N/A engine would be 600 @ 8 PSI and 800 @ 14.7 PSI. The problem arises with restrictions, heat generated, fuel, timing, turbo size, inter-cooling and countless other factors but you get the idea. Adding a cam increases the theoretical N/A power which in theory increases the boost power - IF you can keep it together.
All things being equal, (which of course they never are) as boost increases power output increases at a relative rate. There is actually a formula for it and it varies with turbo size and a bunch of other stuff, but for our theoretical purposes the short version is fine. Atmospheric pressure is 14.7 PSI, so in our earlier example 8 PSI (over N/A) is half again the air pressure and thus 50% more power (with correctly added fuel and spark). 14.7 PSI is 100% improvement of what the engine could ingest on it's own so 100% power gain. In the VVT example, a 400 HP N/A engine would be 600 @ 8 PSI and 800 @ 14.7 PSI. The problem arises with restrictions, heat generated, fuel, timing, turbo size, inter-cooling and countless other factors but you get the idea. Adding a cam increases the theoretical N/A power which in theory increases the boost power - IF you can keep it together.
#32
I asked the question to get you all thinking.
I would say that this motor is possibly capable of 100hp/L NA without tremendous work. Something previously common only for certain high strung japanese engines....except here we have 6L (possibly 7L) and not 1.6L.
I would say that this motor is possibly capable of 100hp/L NA without tremendous work. Something previously common only for certain high strung japanese engines....except here we have 6L (possibly 7L) and not 1.6L.
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Something that I think people may be missing in all of this is the fact that this conversion was done with a factory GM e38 PCM.... no aftermarket PCM, no crazy alterations to a stock LT1 wiring harness.. just all factory silverado wiring mated to a different platform whilst retaining as much of the original functionality as possible.... simple plug.n.play proposition. People throw these LT1 cars to the crusher and its really a shame.
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Your firebird needs one of these...
I the the blower snout will be the wrong length since the LS2/LS3 stuff sits closer to the block, at least I think when compared to the VVT LY6
I the the blower snout will be the wrong length since the LS2/LS3 stuff sits closer to the block, at least I think when compared to the VVT LY6
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Something that I think people may be missing in all of this is the fact that this conversion was done with a factory GM e38 PCM.... no aftermarket PCM, no crazy alterations to a stock LT1 wiring harness.. just all factory silverado wiring mated to a different platform whilst retaining as much of the original functionality as possible.... simple plug.n.play proposition. People throw these LT1 cars to the crusher and its really a shame.
http://www.vengeancerd.com/ These guys might be able to help out with tuning and dynoing, there near Atlanta as well.
#39
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Something that I think people may be missing in all of this is the fact that this conversion was done with a factory GM e38 PCM.... no aftermarket PCM, no crazy alterations to a stock LT1 wiring harness.. just all factory silverado wiring mated to a different platform whilst retaining as much of the original functionality as possible.... simple plug.n.play proposition. People throw these LT1 cars to the crusher and its really a shame.
My t bird was a nice car but boring to drive until I swapped from the V6 to a real engine. Everything works like factory and you would never know what lives under the hood until I get on it.
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Update: I'm talking with a guy who works at a chevy dealership about upgrading the e38's operating system.. hopefully ill have that done this week. Also, I'm putting it in the paint shop this week so hopefully that will get done soon and ill have updated pics.