headers ideas for g-body ???
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: Quebec in Canada
headers ideas for g-body ??? hi ! it's been 2 years running my cutlass with a carbed lq4 and i think it's time to put some headers and bigger exhaust on this engine. now, i have factory truck manifolds with 2 1/4 pipes to the back of the car. I would like to have headers but there is no way i'm gonna pay 800 $ for a set of headers. I live in canada so shipping and customs charges are things I have to think when i want to buy something from the US. I really like to make things by myselve and i'm more looking for ideas of customs headers. I was thinking about bbc 2 inch primaries headers made for a g-body with ls1 flanges. any ideas would be much appreciated. i'm looking for the less expensive way to make it and with the less modifications !!! thanks a lot for your informations. my car is stored for the long winter coming and i need to think about something modify or change next summer !!!
don't hold me to it, but last year at pinks in Memphis there was a brown cutlass, had lsx block/tsp l92's, carbed. I am almost 100% sure he had tsp 1 7/8 f-body headers, and they fit perfect. He post on here, but I can't remember his username. He said they dropped right in.
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,148
Likes: 12
From: Downers Grove, IL
Yep, from what I have seen you can do lightly modded f-body headers (pacesetters come to mind) or cut the flanges off of BBC g-body headers and put a LS1 flange on.
I was actually going to try re-working a set of f-body e-bay stainless headers because I drive my car every day and was sick of rust, but never got around to it. After looking into it it seems like longtubes would only give me 1-2 tenths and 2-3 MPH so it really isn`t worth it for my DD. I`m going to check my backpressure after my cam swap and if its too high I will delete the cats, but I`m staying with f-body manifolds.
How did you get the truck manifolds to clear? They were way to wide for my frame.
I was actually going to try re-working a set of f-body e-bay stainless headers because I drive my car every day and was sick of rust, but never got around to it. After looking into it it seems like longtubes would only give me 1-2 tenths and 2-3 MPH so it really isn`t worth it for my DD. I`m going to check my backpressure after my cam swap and if its too high I will delete the cats, but I`m staying with f-body manifolds.
How did you get the truck manifolds to clear? They were way to wide for my frame.
I have an 84 cutlass and used pacesetter longtubes,the drivers side dropped right in the passenger side needed more than a little work.The 2nd tube back runs right into the frame,I cut it up top and at the bottom and reclocked it some and rewelded it to get about 1/4 clearance at the closest point. I'm using moroso solid mounts for small chevy,and motor is set back
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: Quebec in Canada
thanks guys for your ideas, would you think longtubes would be better ?? I don't race a lot but i want to have the maximum horsepower and throttle response available. I want to make the headers only one time and and i don't want to change them after a couple of months !
g-body, my truck manifolds were easy to fit. the passenger side fitted right there with no problem at all and the driver's side needed to be cutted and welded near the flange, it was really easy.
so guys, do you have examples of brands and prices for some f-body headers or BBC headers with flanges ??
i hope you can understand my english because I usually speak french !!
g-body, my truck manifolds were easy to fit. the passenger side fitted right there with no problem at all and the driver's side needed to be cutted and welded near the flange, it was really easy.
so guys, do you have examples of brands and prices for some f-body headers or BBC headers with flanges ??
i hope you can understand my english because I usually speak french !!
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While I have seen f-body headers go in for this application, the massaging of them to make them work was a bit too much for liking..
For your project who made the headers? And what is the position of your motor relative to the stock position?
This topic has been discussed but there are differences in each application and I have yet to see one that would fit for me without slamming it.. Looks like the BRP would work for me.. Well, in a way... Still doing my homework on the column linkage as it may not work on my column shift as it was not made for this application..
Thanks,
Matt
Last edited by 2Aspire; Nov 1, 2009 at 04:37 PM.
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Verdad Gallardo Also, for the transdapt mounts, what position is your motor relative to the stock position?
Thanks,
Matt
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 155
Likes: 39
From: ELGIN IL
I used mount plates 4572. I don't know what position they are, but it can't go back any more and keep the AC box. The frame needed work right at the pass lower control arm mount, and slightly behind. I took pics but they don't show anything really. I moved the frame in like 3/8 maybe 1/2.
I used mount plates 4572. I don't know what position they are, but it can't go back any more and keep the AC box. The frame needed work right at the pass lower control arm mount, and slightly behind. I took pics but they don't show anything really. I moved the frame in like 3/8 maybe 1/2.
Sounds like thats right in line with the "Massaging" that others have had to do to make an f-body header "fit" per the image below
Thanks for confirmation.. I had seen this from RickBat and the picture is from silverbullet73.. All three of us have John Bs mounts but it looks as though the transdapt mounts place the motor in a similar position based on your feedback with the same style header..
Alas, the elusive drop fit, no modification required, long tube header still evades me..
The BRP looks like it would work if I had a floor shift.. Basically, after discussions with Phil at BRP, he clearly stated that it ( the shift linkage) would need to be modified for a column shift to work.
How much? Who knows? but Im just not ready to spend $800.00+ to find out..
Alas, the elusive drop fit, no modification required, long tube header still evades me..
The BRP looks like it would work if I had a floor shift.. Basically, after discussions with Phil at BRP, he clearly stated that it ( the shift linkage) would need to be modified for a column shift to work.
How much? Who knows? but Im just not ready to spend $800.00+ to find out..
I have the JohnB mounts with a column shift and hooker f body long tubes. The passenger side header had to have a tube moved and the drivers side dropped in. The column linkage only hit on the collector and i had to slot the bracket on the frame to raise the linkage from trans to frame and bring it closer to the floor pan.
I have the JohnB mounts with a column shift and hooker f body long tubes. The passenger side header had to have a tube moved and the drivers side dropped in. The column linkage only hit on the collector and i had to slot the bracket on the frame to raise the linkage from trans to frame and bring it closer to the floor pan.
Even a crude example using ms paint using the image I posted here would help..
Thanks,
Matt
Not to take anything from LS1Tech, but I'd look around on www.maliburacing.com. They have a get section on LSX swap for the G body. Lots of helpful folks too.